P 5445 Attempt and Ascents of Jianshier Feng, P 4348, P 4203 and P 4300. An Anglo-Irish party of five, Mike Banks, Joss Lynam (joint leaders), Phil Gribbon, Paddy O'Leary, and Barrie Page, aged between 60 and 72, climbed the Bogda Feng group of Ti...
High in the Thin Cold Air, by Sir Edmund Hillary and Desmond Doig. Garden City, N. Y.: Doubleday and Company, 1962. 254 pages, 89 illustrations mostly in color, 2 route diagrams. Price $5.95.This is the story of the Himalayan Scientific and Mounta...
Ocshapalca, Cordillera Blanca and Attempt on Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. From June to August, we of the Andean Expedition of the Alpine Friendship Club of Waseda University in Tokyo made our first climbs in the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash...
A Logan AdventureGalen A. RowellIWAVED to the smiling faces in the 5-place helicopter. Sandy Bill gazed resolutely straight ahead. Laura Brant was laughing. Joe Bridges looked happy but bewildered (it was his first wilderness climbing trip). My la...
FALLING ROCK- DISLODGED, NO HARD HAT, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel RockOn June 27, Jim Corpus (44) and Mike Penner (45) climbed the Steck-Salathe route (15 pitches, 5.9) on Sentinel Rock. They summited at sunset, took a break...
By Fair MeansThe first ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre without Maestri's bolts.Hayden KennedyMy mind twists in anticipation. The night is clear, and the Torres have become monsters. The moonlight provides just enough light to see the ...
The Shield, Attempt. My Norwegian climbing trip this summer was a surprise and a disappointment. First I flew to Oslow and spent three days gathering a team that consisted of me and two Swedish climbers, Ludde Hagberg and a friend of his named Mar...
Washington, North Cascades, Sharkfin Tower, Cascade Pass Area. On August 7 a party of 6 (3 ropes of 2) was returning from an ascent of Sharkfin Tower. They were at the base of the rock summit at the top of a steep snow slope (50-40°). At 3:15 P.M....
Various free ascents. I will look back on 2005 as the year I became obsessed with Zion free climbing. It started a few weeks before 2005, when I nabbed the first free ascent of Angel’s Landing, via the 15-pitch Lowe Route. After that climb, I was ...
FALL ON SNOW, PARTY SEPARATED—CLIMBING ALONE, FATIGUEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Denali PassOn May 18 at 0600, Kunibert Gramlich, from Germany, stumbled into the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley and requested assistance from Nat...
Japanese Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Ayacachi and Cordillera Vilcanota. The Peruvian Andes Expedition 1961 of Kwansei Gakuin University was planned as one of the ceremonial events of the 70th anniversary of the university and s...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. Between October 28, 1999, and January 23, 2000, Laurence Monnoyeur and I had 18 days of good weather overall. From October 28-November 11, we traveled on the Hielo Continental from Marconi Pass to the Refugio...
Grand Teton, ex-Stettner Couloir. Even as other cloddish guidebook writers have capitalized on their own blunders (See A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, p. 412), so it was with the first ascent on rock of the so-called Stettner Couloir on the Grand Teton, made ...
Malubiting West, Ascent. On July 29, Matthias Dischinger (28) from Lorrach, Germany, Roland Brandli (35) from Zurich, Switzerland, Ruedi Karrer (38) from Zurich, Switzerland, and Dieter Funfschilling (25) as expedition leader, started the walk-in ...
Indian Peaks guidebook author Gerry Roach describes the northwest face of 13,441' Apache Peak as “steep, broken, and uninteresting.” Maybe so in summer, but in the spring, with lots of snow and some ice, it becomes an attractive alpine route. Greg...
Stone House Buttress, Jeanne Neale Route. Our first attempt of this route on February 12 was cut short by an unfortunate fall by a young lass on another route. Dan Hurd and I descended to help on what was to be an exciting rescue. March 4 found us...
Dhaulagiri. Our expedition was composed of Iñaki Aldaya, Dr. Javier Garayoa, Dr. Trinidad Cornellana, Gerardo Plaza, Angel Irigoyen, Angel Martínez, Javier Garreta, José Ignacio Ariz, Agustín Setuain, Juan Mary Eguillor, Mary Abrego, Javier Soroza...
Api, Bobaye, NampaThe 1996 Slovenian Three Peaks Expeditionby Roman Robas, Matic Jost, Tomaz Humar, and Janko Meglic,Planinska zvezci Slovenije translated by Ana PercicIn the spring of 1995, Stane Belak-Srauf, with Jasna Bratanic and Bostjan Slate...
Mazamas. In 1963 weather worked against our climbing program with a vengeance. Twenty of the 103 climbs scheduled by the climbing committee were called off before starting. An additional 14 climbs were stormed off short of the summit. This is depr...
“The Mountain Way.” An Anthology in Prose and Verse, collected by R. L. G. Irving. 656 pages, 1 illustration. London : J. M. Dent & Sons, 1938. Price 10 s, 6 d.Arnold Lunn’s Oxford Mountaineering Essays and J. Walker McSpadden’s The Alps as Se...