Huascarán Norte, North Face. Danilo Tic, Marjan Freser and I first made four acclimatization climbs. We wanted to climb Huascarán’s south face, but alternate snow and rain forced us to change our plans. We started for an unclimbed route on the nor...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Rock Face near Cascade WaterfieldOn August 19, 1984, three scramblers decided to explore and climb the rock face on the right-hand side of the Cascade Waterfall in BanffNational Park. This waterfall ...
ANKLE INJURY AND HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThis summary is comprised of two separate incidents that ended up as one continuous effort using many shared resources and with multiple overlapping responsibilities.On May 26 Lee Jung Park...
Payu, South Face. A. Enzio, Giovanni Calcagno, M. Pellizzaro and Tullio Vidone climbed a very difficult new route on the south side of Payu in August. The first part was on granite and the second part mixed rock and ice.Renato Moro, Club Alpino It...
Milluni Valley, Various Ascents. Slovenian Branko Ivanek, a La Paz resident and guide, made a number of probable first ascents of icefalls in the Milluni Valley, south of Huayna Potosí. On July 23, with Bolivian guide Marco Soria, he climbed an 80...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Haffner CreekAt about 11:00 a.m. on December 3, Banff Park wardens were called to a rescue at Haffner Creek, in Kootenay National Park, where a man in his 30s had fallen f...
Annapurna IV. A guided expedition led by Austrian Adolf Weissensteiner had eight Swiss, five Austrians, one German and one Frenchman. After establishing three camps on the northwest ridge, on October 7 Austrian Franz Brei- tenbauer, Swiss Anton Ka...
Ganesh I Attempt. A joint Korean-Nepalese expedition led by Park Ji-Weon had hoped to climb Ganesh I by a new route, the south ridge. They had two misfortunes before even reaching the mountain. Their baggage was so late in arriving at Kathmandu th...
Bhagirathi I, West Ridge. The participants were Michael Messner, Harald Riedl, Christian Zenz and me. It was our aim to climb the west ridge of Bhaghirathi I, which was first ascended alpine-style by a British expedition in 1983. After having comp...
Tilitso Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Josep Barrachina, Francesc Albera, Lluis López, Conrad López and me as leader. We left Dumre on March 10 with 40 porters. Seven days later we got to Kangsar and to Base Camp on March 28 at 4910 m...
New routes on Mount Rainier. The 1957 American Alpine Journal had barely been mailed when the article "The Climbing History of Mount Rainier” became outdated; for before the climbing season came to an end four new routes had been pioneered to the ...
Whitechuck, East Face. In 1973 Ron Miller and Ben Guydelkon climbed the east face proper. Class 3 and 4.
Paragliding from Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, 1988. Four German climbers led by Matthias Pinn made a number of unsuccessful attempts on Cerro Torre in August 1988 before turning to Fitz Roy, which they climbed by the Supercouloir. After a bivouac on ...
Lone Pine Peak, South Face. On June 14, Chuck Sink and I put up a new route on Lone Pine’s south face. The route begins above the start of the giant couloir cutting the face diagonally. It is nearly all free and follows cracks just right of a prom...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT Washington, IndexOn March 16,1986, Paul Birdstrup (35) was climbing Magic Fern (5.8+) on Index Town Wall, a one pitch route. Doing the 5.8+ moves, the climber took a minor fall and became fru...
San José: The highest summit of this mountain (19,284 feet) in the Chilean Andes was ascended for the first time by Sebastian Krückel and Otto Pfenniger of Santiago on March 6th, 1931.
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Colorado, Glenwood SpringsIn June, a climber (age unknown) was leading a moderate (5.6-5.7) route in No-Name Creek when he/she fell from ten meters off the deck, six meters above protection. Victim ...
Naimona’nyi (Gurla Mandhata). The Japanese part of the joint expedition, of which I was the mountaineering leader, passed through Urumchi and reached Kashgar, where we met the Chinese part on April 11. We went through Yarkand, crossed the Kunlung ...
Wisconsin Hoofers. By reason of location we are predominantly a rock climbing club and do most of our climbing on quartzite bluffs at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin, about 40 miles north of Madison. Usually early in the school year we devote meetings to ...
Colorado Mountain Club reports that there has been a great increase in interest and in the number of climbers. They feel that this increase in numbers of less experienced persons accounts in part for the increase in accidents on CMC trips. Because...