Climbs in the Wrangell Range. On July 8 a six-man expedition under the leadership of Ed Lane and further consisting of Barbara Lilley, Dick Beach, Wally Henry, Bill Morris and me arrived at Gulkana Airfield, just north of Glennallen. After several...
Mount Burney, Monte Bove and Monte Francés, Tierra del Fuego. On January 9, John Earle, Jack Ewer and I set out in a Zodiac inflatable boat from Estancia Skyring, 100 miles by road from Punta Arenas. On the 15th, after a moderately rough voyage an...
Glacier 1 (Fake Peak Glacier) Peaks. From June 1-22 British climbers Mike Fletcher, Richard Leech, Oliver Shergold , and I visited the unfrequented Glacier 1 (a.k.a. Fake Peak Glacier). In the prevailing fine weather we made seven ascents, five of...
Sukakpak (typically pronounced suka-pak, 4,459') is a prominent landmark to Euro motorcycle tourists, RVers, and long-haul truckers who ply the Dalton Highway north of Coldfoot. To a climber, Sukakpak’s west face is even more conspicuous. ...
Kuh-e-Hevad, Qala Panja, Wakhan. A Czech expedition, led by Vladimir Sedivy and consisting of Rudolf Antonicek, Rudolf Cervinka, Milan Daniel, Ivan Gálfy, Vilém Heckel, Miroslav Jaskovsky, Radovan Kuchar, Miles Matras, Josef Psotka, Bedrich Roger,...
Rinzho Gol and Gordoghan Gol Regions. The Todorei Hindu Raj Expedition was made up of Chuji Sato, Toyoo Yamamoto, Yasuo Yaguchi and Miss Shuko Kuribayashi. On July 14 Yakuchi, Yamamoto and Miss Kuribayashi climbed P 5100 (16,733 feet) above the Ri...
McKinley, Northwest ButtressDONALD H. O. McLEANIt was rather unusual that both routes first attempted by Dr. Frederick Cook over 50 years ago were successfully climbed this year. At meetings of the Alpine Club at the University of Alaska, Elton Th...
Bear Creek Spire, South Face. In August I made the first ascent of this steep 1000-foot wall. I was prepared for a somewhat smaller face of more moderate angle as indicated on the disturbingly inaccurate topographical map. At the base of the wall,...
Master of Rock: The Biography of John Gill, by Pat Ament. Boulder: Alpine House Publishing, 1977. 197 pages, many black-and-white photos.The idea of someone who can climb levels harder than anyone else, which is what I had always heard about Gill,...
Hai Tower, Diggin’ for Dreams. The Half Moon, Choi Oy, and Hai Tower massif forms a giant open book, easily visible from the nearby Liberty Bell group near Washington Pass. It was hard for us to believe that such a massive face was unclimbed. Howe...
The Beartooth Mountains of MontanaNorman ClydeALTHOUGH situated only a few miles from the Yellowstone National Park and containing the loftiest mountains in Montana, the Beartooth Mountains are known to comparatively few. Their most widely adverti...
Peaks above Quebrada Rajucolta. On July 15 we left Huaraz for the Quebrada Rajucolta to attempt several climbs, among them the unclimbed south ridge of Huantsán (20,981 feet). The two females, Alice Liska and Molly Weinstein planned to stay at Bas...
Middle Fiord, Axel Heiberg. The British Army Axel Heiberg Expedition 1972 was composed of Surgeon Lieutenant Commander P. N. Dilly, Captain M. T. King, Lieutenants J. W. Chuter, P. R. West, F. S. MacKenzie, D. A. Malcolm and R. J. Ebdon, Sergeant ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL INTO MOAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, TetonsMark Anderson (29) arrived in Jackson on July 11 and met his friend Bob johnson. They were planning to climb the Grand Teton. Anderson and Johnson had been clim...
Rakaposhi - AlmostRICHARD K. IRVINour Dakota circled once over Rawalpindi and headed north with nose up, straining for altitude. Below now lay the Sind desert, and far behind was Karachi with its uncountable government offices, each with its inter...
MISSING/OVERDUEColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkThis report is the amalgamation of five different incidents that, although singularly were not significant, collectively illustrate how minor problems that can grow into much larger incidents. I...
The Ascent of Dhaulagiri, by Max Eiselin. Translated from the German by E. Noel Bowman. New York: Oxford University Press, 1961. 159 pages. Illustrated. Price $5.75.This is an account of the successful double ascent of Dhaulagiri (8172 m.) in the ...
Hindu Raj, UIAA International Expedition Training Camp. The 23 young participants from 13 different countries (and all five continents) of the UIAA International Expedition Training Camp started their expedition on September 3. The expedition was ...
United States : Climbs in CaliforniaCastle Rock Spire, Sequoia National Park. Looking S.E. from Moro Rock on the Generals’ Highway, across the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River, one sees the serrated ridge of Castle Rocks, rising to an elevation of ...
Central Andes. The Alpine Club of the Japan Defense Army Universitysent Kazuo Asai as leader, Takashi Kawakami, climbing leader, Hiroshi Osuga, Mitsuaki Murata, Kazumi Taziri, Seijun Kimura, Chitoshi Ando and Shinichi Tamura to the central Andes. ...