Gangotri Region, Indian Expeditions. A great many Indian expeditions were active in the Gangotri region. An expedition from Jadavpur University in Calcutta was led by Sudipta Nanda. On June 23 Goutam Datta, Ajit Naskar, Kamal Sarkhel and Shital Si...
Rakhiot Peak. Our expedition consisted of Hwang Nam-Kyu, Lee KwangJae, Kim Jong-Chul, Jung Dong-Kun and me as leader. Rakhiot Peak (7070 meters, 23,196 feet) is on the route by which Hermann Buhl made the first ascentof Nanga Parbat. We establishe...
Sierra National Forest, Black Rock Dome, Bad Day At Black Rock. Black Rock Dome is a 600-foot south-facing formation just northwest of (and easily visible from) the road to Black Rock Reservoir. In August, Jim Zellers, Pete Taylor and I approached...
Sri Kailas. An expedition from Calcutta was led by Shankar Prosad Sangha. They set up Base Camp at the confluence of the Raktvam and Thelu streams on August 6. Six camps were set up on the Raktvam Glacier. On August 20, Shyamal Sarkar, Pasang Namg...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The club was greatly saddened by the death of its president, Dale Watkins, in a rock climbing accident. A former president of the Purdue Outing Club, Dale was a fine climber who inspired the club with his own specia...
The Hiker’s Handbook, by Douglas Leechman, 8vo,, 220 pages, with 39 illustrations from drawings. New York: W. W. Norton & Co., 1944. Price $2.50.The author of this delightfully-written little book is a member of the staff of the National Museu...
“Oxygenless” Climbs and Barometric PressureJohn B. West, M.D., Ph.D.*“OXYGENLESS” CLIMBS of 8000-meter peaks are very much in vogue. Small, fast expeditions with alpine-like tactics look down their noses at the heavy, paraphernalia of supplementar...
Rongla Kangri attempt; Pk. 5,984m and Pk. 5,930m, first ascents. Our permit for Nyegi Kangsang, a peak on the Indo-Tibetan border, was withdrawn just one week before we were due to leave for Kathmandu en route to Lhasa. A number of factors contrib...
JOHN HENRY CUNTZ1866— 1928John Henry Cuntz, a member of the Club since 1914, went over the range in May, 1928, in his sixty-second year. He was born in Hoboken, New Jersey, and was a graduate of Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute and of Stevens Inst...
Sierra Nevada: (2) Cathedral Spires, Yosemite Valley. On 13 July 1947 the president of the Stanford Alpine Club and two of its members were climbing the “Rotten Chimney” on the higher spire. The rock of this chimney would ordinarily be considered ...
Idaho Alpine Club. 1990 marked the 30th anniversary of the I.A.C. and Idaho’s Centennial. Members organized a “Spuds on Denali” expedition to commemorate both events. Mike Obleness, Chris Averill, Dave Fields and Paul Henslee attempted the South ...
British Columbia, Glacier National Park. On August 4, Joseph Shlitz, Harriet Deleuran, Anne Stettner, and Louvonia Rudolf were ascending the Illecillewaet Glacier, practicing ice technique en route to the summit of Lookout Mountain. The four membe...
Early Days In the Range of Light: Encounters With Legendary Mountaineers. Daniel Arnold. Counterpoint, 2009. 432 pages. Hardcover. $29.95.When it comes to mountaineering literature, California’s Sierra Nevada is perhaps the most storied of North A...
King Albert Medal of Merit Award. The King Albert Memorial Foundation awarded its King Albert Medal of Merit to Dr. Charles S. Houston, who is an Honorary Member of the AAC. The King Albert Foundation is an institution founded in memory of the lat...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. The year started with a sometimes-annual Markleeville ski trip. A few hardy souls were out to enjoy the “pow” and soak tired, weary limbs in, where else, but Grover Hot Springs. More people should attend this trip.We he...
Mt. Sholes and Mt. Tassles, First Ascents. In May, Geoff Hornby and Mike Smith made the first climbing visit to the Fake Peak Glacier since the August, 1906, visit and photographic session by Frederick Cook and Edward Barrill as part of their clai...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn August 22 at 1143, Ranger Leo Larson was at the Lower Saddle when he received word of a possible incident on the Lower Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton. Additional i...
Birutaso (ca. 6,550m), first ascent. After the last-minute permit fiascos that stymied an attempt to reach the Lawa Valley in 2004, Jo Kippax and I were apprehensive about how our 2005 attempt would work out. However, the permit process and access...
The End of the AffairFirst~ascent potential in southeastern Greenland.Mike LibeckiI have asked many of my friends and fellow climbers, and I’ve asked myself: Why? When we see grand, unclimbed rock walls, why do we become obsessed with finding ways...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew Mexico, Organ Mountains, Organ NeedleOn December 1 John Smith (name changed) was reported overdue from a solo climb of the 4th-class route up the Organ Needle (9...