FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierAbout 5:00 p.m. on July 7, rangers at Camp Muir were notified by Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., of a climbing team of three at the 13,000-foot level on the Ingraham Glacier in possible ne...
Jogin I, NorthRidge, 1983. Eight Japanese led by Kaoru Aoyagi established Base Camp at 15,425 feet on Kedar Tal on September 8, 1983, Advance Base at 16,075 feet on the 11th and Camps I and II at 18,550 and 19,850 feet on the 18th and 22nd. On Sep...
“Paramount Peak”, Farnham Group. At 9900 feet “Paramount Peak” is the higher of two prominent rock peaks located at the southern extremity of the Farnham group and visible along parts of the Toby Creek road west of Invermere. On July 23 my wife Gr...
Sierra de Sangra, Cerro Cocoví (2,155m), north flank. The Sierra de Sangra includes an icefield of ca 100km2, east of Lago San Martin, in the province of Santa Cruz. Its highest peak, marked on the map as 2,155m, had no name. It was time it was cl...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Bastille, Werk SuppOn July 14, Preston Brennan (47), an experienced climber, and his partner were climbing Werk Supp, a 5.9 route located on the Bastille. Witnesses noted tha...
REVIEW OF ACCIDENTS 1953Maine—Katahdin: David Ripley (21) of Belmont, Mass., while leading, suffered a fall of about 100 feet on September 12, 1953. He was rock climbing with Robert Kruseyna (25) on Pamola. His fall was down a slope and not a shee...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. The Bavarian-Austrian Nanga Parbat Expedition was composed of Austrians Peter Wörgötter, deputy leader, Oswald Gassier and Hans Hirschbichler and Germans Joachim Labisch and me as leader. Our objective had been to make t...
Southern Sierra, Domelands, Poison Domes, Various Ascents. Over the past three summers, spurred on by Mark Robinson’s persistence and love for steep rock, Steve Offerman, Mark and I established nine new rock climbs, ranging in difficulty from 5.10...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Summit Area, Wet Dream FallsOn Feb. 2,1993, a party of two were climbing the first pitch of this ice gully The leader, P.F., placed a screw midway up his 16 meter lead, and unsuccessf...
Radhanath. A 12-member Indian team from Calcutta arrived at Base Camp at Vasuki Tal at 16,450 feet on June 17. They set up Camps I and II at 17,400 and 18,800 feet on June 18 and 19. Leader Bibhas Das, Chinmoy Ghosh and porters Balbir Singh and Dh...
Unnamed peak on the Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley. Four Italians, Roberto Iannilli, Marco Marciano, Moritz Tirler, and Giovanni Rivolta, attempted a route toward the left side of the big rock wall that forms the west face of the impressive unnam...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The highlight of the year’s activity was the summer western outing in the Bridger Wilderness Area of the Wind River Range in Wyoming. The outing was planned and coordinated by Jack Curtin, the outing chairman. In confo...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The year 1988 was one of consolidation in the Blue Ridge Section. Several members were active throughout the mountain ranges of the world, while others devoted their time to climbing closer to home. In all, however, the...
Snowshoe Country, by Florence Page Jaques. 4to., 110 pages, with numerous illustrations from each pen drawings of Francis Lee Jaques. Minneapolis; University of Minnesota, 1944. Price $3.00.The illustrations sell this book on sight, and the text i...
Overlord, Thor and Asgard, Baffin Island. Russ Bunker, Jerry Cinnamon, P.T. Davis, Scott Kimball, Jon Leonard and I were in the Pangnirtung Pass area from June 17 to August 20. Long stretches of stormy weather limited the number of climbing days. ...
Oregon, Mt. St. Helens—On June 6, 28 persons began a climb of Mt. St. Helens. This was the Tacoma Climbing Course’s experience climb. Equipment was adequate but climbing experience was limited. Three out of four persons would be rated as basic cli...
SLIP ON SNOW, EQUIPMENT DIFFICULTYCalifornia, SierraIn June 1978, after completing a summit ski descent of Carson Peaks’ northeast bowl (10,000 feet) and traversing the rock band to the top of Devil’s Slide (9,200 feet), I regained my bivouac gear...
Tawoche, east-southeast face; Cholatse, direct finish to French Route; Ama Dablam, northwest face, attempt. While hundreds of climbers were in the early stages of their wanderings up and down Everest, one Swiss, Ueli Steck, was totally alone on th...
British Columbia, Garibaldi Mountain. On July 17, Frank deBruyn (16), James Hebden (18), and James Fowler (18) were climbing Garibaldi. Because of a known avalanche danger they had started the evening before. At about 4 a.m. they were in a couloir...
FROSTBITE, INEXPERIENCE Yukon Territory, Mt. Logan, King Trench RouteDuring an ascent of the King Trench route on Mt. Logan in June 1980, Gideon Frydman, a member of a four-man party from the Royal Military College Club of Canada, noticed that his...