Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangbachen, Second Ascent

Kangbachen, Second Ascent. The members of the fifth Yugoslavian Himalayan expedition were Jože Andlovic, Peter Soklic, Zoran Jerin, Rado Riedl, Zvone Andrejcic, Stane Belak, Danilo Cedilnik, Janez Dovžan, Janez Gradišar, Franc Jeromen, Marjan Manf...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, P 4000, "Mount Kershaw," east of Vinson, and Mount Shinn, 1992

P 4800, “Mount Kershaw, ” east of Vinson, and Mount Shinn, 1992. On December 14, 1992, Sundeep Dhillon and I set up Camp III at 4300 meters northeast of the summit of the Vinson Massif and ascended the previously unclimbed peak two kilometers due ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Oregon, North Sister, Early Morning Couloir

North Sister, Early Morning Couloir. I made a solo ascent of this couloir. This fall the record lack of precipitation and lower temperature offered unusual possibilities. At 1:30 on December 20, I left the lower screes and progressed quickly up th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Olympic Mountains (1)

Washington, Olympic Mountains (1)—On July 1, 1956 Roy Harniss (20), one of a party of five climbers from Bremerton, was standing on a steep snow slope on the Sawtooth Pinnacles, putting on his mittens. He lost his footing and before he could grab ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Marcus Baker

Marcus Baker. A three-man Japanese party led by Koichi Okuda flew to the Matanuska Glacier on July 29, 1976 and placed Base Camp at 7500 feet on the glacier on the 31st. Their original objective, the north ridge was abandoned because of falling ic...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Sangay

Sangay. Sebastian Snow and I were sent by the Weekend Telegraph to climb this 17,463-foot volcano in May. We were accompanied by Jorge Larrea, one of Ecuador’s most experienced climbers. It must be the world’s highest truly active volcano. While w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Ultar Attempt

Ultar Attempt. After acclimatizing by climbing the neighbor peak Bublimotin from the Hassanabad side, Geir Arne Bore, Jan Ivar BØe, Kim TophØj Olsen and I attempted Ultar, hoping to reach the south ridge via the east face. This was similar to the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Middle Cathedral Rock, Direct North Buttress

Middle Cathedral Rock, Direct North Buttress. For several years Yvon Chouinard and I had looked at the true north buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock and wondered—if, who, when. What was climbed in 1954 and called the North Buttress route lay, actua...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Lapps

The Lapps, by Björn Collinder. 252 pages, with frontispiece in color, 25 photographic plates, bibliography and index. New York: Princeton University Press for the American Scandinavian Foundation, 1949. Price, $3.75.The professor of Finno-Ugric la...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma

Shisha Pangma. The Chinese claim that they have made the first ascent of Shisha Pangma or Gosainthan (26,291 feet), the 14th highest mountain in the world and the last of the unclimbed 8000ers. They state that they had previously reconnoitered to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Stanhardt, Aguja Poincenot, Cuatro Dedos. Gran Gendarme de Pollone and Other Peaks in the Fitz Roy Area

Cerro Stanhardt, Aguja Poincenot, Cuatro Dedos. Gran Gendarme de Pollone and Other Peaks in the Fitz Roy Area. The British South American Mountaineering Expedition started its eight month’s time with ascents in the Fitz Roy area. From that region ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Cirque of the Unclimbables. The first Japanese expedition to the Logan Mountains was composed of Koichi Ezaki, Takashi Kuranishi, Shingemitsu Murai and Harutoshi Toyota. They flew to Glacier Lake on July 10. On July 15 Ezaki and Kuranishi did a ne...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Chopicalqui, East Ridge

Chopicalqui, East Ridge. Our expedition was composed of René Desmaison. Dr. Alain Vagne, Guy Giraud, David Autheman, Michel Arizzi and me. We had our Base Camp in the Quebrada Honda and established two more camps to acclimatize and to move up supp...


In Memoriam AAJ
Marjorie Hurd, 1886-1977

P 5578, Khwaja Muhammad Mountains. In the central Hindu Kush P 5578 (18,301 feet) was climbed by Takakiyo Sakahara, leader, Ms. Taeko Onoeh, Takao Hayashida and Eitaro Kusakabe on August 5 and 6. The fifth member of this Japanese expedition was al...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Alaska Highway, Free Solo

Alaska Highway, free solo. In July I was walking up the North Walls trail with my shoes, chalk bag, and the ashes of my friend Ben DeMenic. The plan was to climb Angel’s Crest, a 15-pitch 5.10, and scatter his ashes along the way. I’m not sure wha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Shaw Spire

Shaw Spire. This free-standing pinnacle at the head of George Creek, nestled under the east face of Mount Barnard, was ascended for the first time in March by Jerry Gregg and me. The arduous 6000-foot approach begins in the Owens Valley below Moun...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountian Club

Colorado Mountain Club. The rapid growth of the club continues with an increase of 25% during the year to over 3500 members. Hundreds of one-day and weekend trips serve the recreational needs of the members, organized into some 12 local groups. In...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Central Peru, Cordillera Raura

Cordillera Raura. Our party was Bob Gunn, New Zealander, Dick Heffeman, Australian, Rob Wilson, Alaskan, and I, English. Heffeman got typhoid fever and stayed at Mina Raura. We left Lima on May 18 and got to Raura the next day. On May 20 Gunn and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Koh-e-Urgas

Koh-e-Urgas, Koh-e-Ahangaran. In the spring of 1969 the Spanish Trans-Himalaya Expedition began its second part. Its objectives were ascents in the Hindu Kush and Himalaya. Emilio Civis and Antonio Lleonart joined me as leader. In the Koh-e-Baba r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. Our party consisted of American Scott Woolums, Australians Richard Howes, Armando Corvini, Matt Godbold, Ray Vran, Andrew Lock and me as leader. We climbed Pumori directly up the south ridge from Kala Pattar. We placed Advance Base, Camp I...