Chimney Rock, Main Peak North Face. Mike Anthony and I climbed the eastern-most chimney on the north face. The chimney was unusual in that it cut very deeply into the peak. The ascent was done on August 10 in a whiteout. We encountered some ice in...
Mount Rainier, Sunset Amphitheater Headwall. On August 1, Brent Eaton and I completed a new direct route on Rainier’s Sunset Amphitheater Headwall. Our route lies on the central buttress directly below Liberty Cap to the left of the 1967 route. It...
Ingalls Peak, East Ridge of the East Peak. This route, first climbed on October 11 by Don Anderson, Barry Prather, Gene Prater and me, ascends the prominent “dike chimney” in the south face of the ridge. This chimney offered grade IV climbing, wit...
ROCK LEDGE BROKE OFF – FALLING ROCK HIT CLIMBING PARTNERAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount YamnuskaOn May 22,JK and A were climbing the Necromancer route (5.10a, eleven pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. JK was leading the second pitch and stepped on a l...
Ojos del Salado: Omission from the 1937 AAJ Article. Inadvertently credit lines and complete captions were omitted from the pictures opposite page 83 in Volume X, Number 2 of the American Alpine Journal, 1957. The upper picture was taken by Juan S...
Annapurna IV. A German expedition under the leadership of Heinz Steinmetz, consisting of Dr. Manfred Bachmann, Harald Biller, Fritz Lobbichler and Jurgen Wellenkamp, successfully ascended 24,688-footAnnapurna IV, which was climbed in 1950 by H. W....
South Twin, King Edward and Sundial. In July and August I spent 18 days alone around the headwaters of the Athabasca River. Seeing the view from the top of Wooley Shoulder, I hoped to climb the regular route on Mount Alberta. Two days later in a s...
Liaylak Valley, Pik Blok, west face. From July 28 to August 6 Belorussian Alexander Maximenja made a solo first ascent on the west face of Pik Blok (5,239m). The new route lies parallel to and left of the Valiev Route, was graded Russian 6A, and h...
Kizil Asker, new route attempt. In July and August, Guy Robertson and I made two attempts on the most compelling alpine ice route either of us has ever seen: the 1300m virgin southeast face of Kizil Asker, the highest peak in the Western Kokshaal-...
Manaslu Traverse. A strong Soviet expedition from the Ukraine with 20 members, 16 of them climbers, was led by Dr. Vladimir Shumikhin and Sergei Bershov. They had hoped to ascend the still unclimbed east face of Manaslu (8163 meters, 26,780 feet)....
Note on Cerro Yagán. In his account of the New Zealand 1970-1 Expedition to Tierra del Fuego (see A.A.J., 1974, p. 202) Michael Andrews says, “The peak named Cerro Yagán by Shipton and said by him to be the same as that named Luigi di Savoia by de...
Solo to the South Pole. Norwegian Erling Kagge set off solo from Bergkner Island on November 17, 1992 for the South Pole, dragging a 125-kilo sled. Without any resupply or other assistance he skied the 1310 kilometers to the Pole, which he reached...
Mount Constance. Jon Olson and I made the first ascent of the north face via Crystal Pass. We placed two bolts; protection was precarious. The route begins 200 yards to the north of the Red Dike route at the base of three prominent cracks, below a...
SLIP ON STEEP SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHINGColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), Longs PeakOn July 22 at about 1300 hours a 68 year-old solo climber notified RMNP Dispatch that he had taken a 30-foo...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park (1)—On July 20, 1956 Jake Brettenback (21) fell into a crevasse at about 13,000 feet elevation while on a summit climb of Mt. Rainier. The snow bridge collapsed under his weight, and the other climber, not hav...
Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley 1903-1990. Jonathan Waterman, with an Introduction and chapter on Mountain Medicine by Peter H. Hackett, M.D. Second Edition, Revised. American Alpine Club Press, New York, 1991. 67 pages of...
Chigmit Mountains. Flying by float-plane to Chakachamna Lake on August 10 gave Mark Moderow, Margit Breski, my wife Rowi and me breath-taking views of the previously unexplored peaks of the northern Chigmit Range. Rain and alders spiced our approa...
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgIndian Himalaya, overview. If you pardon the cliché, whenever God closes a door, he opens a window. T...
FALL ON SNOW AND ICE AND NO BELAY—Alberta, Moraine Lake, 3-4 Couloir. Alison Clough and Dave Charlebois were descending the couloir from the Graham Cooper Hut on a rope at 8 a.m. on July 3, 1977 as part of a larger party. The first rope, which was...
West Greenland. The Royal Military Academy Expedition spent some six weeks in West Greenland from the end of July to early September. Its members were 2nd Lieutenant R. M. Johnston, Officer Cadets A. F. Davidson and E. C. Walshaw and myself as lea...