Lapplanderfahrt im Rentier-Schlitten, by Liselotte Kattwinkel. 216 pages, 37 photographic illustrations by the author and eleven sketches. Braunschweig: Georg Westermann Verlag, 1951. Price, $3.25.One of the most interesting books about life above...
The Snout, The Golden Ramp Route. After the rain made it impossible for Jay ]Ossiander and me to do the east face of Liberty Bell, we started to look around for something short to climb. Hiking south of the Cutthroat Lake trail, a half-mile from C...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. 1988 and 1989 were very good years for climbers in the Cascade Section. As usual, members participated in expeditions all over the globe, with particularly good results on both years on Kangchenjunga. Carlos Buhler has bee...
Central Argentina. The highest peak in the Mongotes group, a snow and ice peak about 19,350 feet high, was climbed in January by R. Arci- diácono, J. Bello and E. Fiorentini. In the Enanos group, just to the south, in January the first ascents wer...
Cerro Torre. John Bragg, Jay Wilson and Dave Carman made the second ascent during the 1976-7 season of the west face of Cerro Torre, following the route climbed by the Italians in 1974. They climbed in semi-alpine style. It took them one day to ge...
Mount Englehard, Northwest Couloir, Columbia Icefield. In early September Tom Kimbrell, Dave Hough and I climbed the northwest couloir of Mount Englehard. We had 700 feet of reliable 60° ice in the upper couloir. The bottom section will vary signi...
Lone Peak, West Flank of South Peak. On June 16 Bob Irvine and I put a new route up the west end of the nearly vertical wall of the south peak of Lone Peak. We named the route “Lone Pine”, as its finish is capped with a single pine tree. The first...
Chopicalqui, Northwest Face, Solo in one day. From camp at 13,125 feet above Yurac Corral in the Quebrada Llanganuco, I decided to attempt a new route on the northwest face of Chopicalqui to the left of the route climbed in 1981 by Sigayret, the R...
SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Wyoming, TetonsJames (24) and Claude (29) Kelly were climbing the Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton on July 2. After climbing the “Open Book” pitch on the ridge, approximately 200 to 300 feet below the summit, the Kellys...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, CLIMBING UNROPED– NO EQUIPMENTNorth Carolina, Table Rock MountainOn July 19 a hiker turned climber fell after scrambling in the vicinity of the Wasp (5.7). He fell approximately 30 to 40 feet, sustaining severe h...
Central North Island, summary. Richard Thomson’s new guidebook to the Tongariro National Park may have kicked off some fresh enthusiasm, or maybe it was the good early season conditions. Either way some great-looking ice and mixed routes were clim...
TABLE IIGeographicalNumber of1951-611962TotalPersons Number ofTotalPersonsDistrictsAccidentsDeathsInvolved Accidents Deaths InvolvedCanadaAlberta 636111British Columbia7618000Yukon Territory 101000United StatesAtlantic — North441558525— South22200...
Ayacachi or Mamariti Group, Cordillera Vilcanota. Steve Webster (USA), John Wilson (New Zealand), Bill Whelen (Australia) and I explored the north side of the Ayacachi group. People on the north call it Mamariti, and I have yet to hear someone ref...
Grand Traverse, first winter ascent. On January 24, 2004, after more than three weeks of unseasonably dry and warm weather, two parties set out to complete a long-standing project in the Tetons: the Grand Traverse in winter. Perennial winter activ...
Death Canyon, Peak 10,552, “Dihedral of Horrors” On August 18, Peter Avenali and John Behrens climbed a strenuous new route out of Death Canyon of II, F8, A3 difficulty. After the first two switchbacks of the Death Canyon Trail one can see a high ...
Thompson Ridge Area, Chugach Mountains. On June 12 Jim Miller flew Bob Jacobs, Ole Kanestrom and me to the Thompson Ridge area. We landed on a sandy gravel bar near Ross Green Lake, where a Polish expedition had set up Base Camp. We joined them fo...
Koh-i-Bandaka Attempt. Our expedition attempted the normal route on the south summit of Koh-i-Bandaka (22,447 feet) but could get to only 21,000 feet because of difficulties caused by the Afghans. From now on a guide who receives $20 (US) must acc...
Big Four Mountain, Central Summit Direct. A long, though moderate, route on snow and ice. The route follows the narrow couloir that splits a buttress originating directly from the center peak of the five summits evident on the mountain. An icefall...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)On September 8, a climber who had been bolting stations on an unnamed route on Mount Yamnuska fell approximately 40 feet, fracturing his ankle. He fe...
Bhagirathi II North Face, Ascent and Tragedy, 1981. In the autumn of 1981, Dawson Stelfox, Tommy Maguire and I visited the Gangotri region. From the usual Base Camp beside the Gangotri Glacier, we made exploratory trips to study the west faces of ...