Cholatse, southwest ridge, winter attempt. Ross Lynn and I spent three days on Cholatse (6,440m) from January 30 to February 1, 2006. On the first day we climbed from base camp to the ca. 5,550m col at the foot of the southwest ridge, at one point...

Alberta, Mt. Victoria Glacier. On July 11, John Linn (about 40), Stanley Doane, and Ernest Feuz were returning from a climb of the glacier by their ascent route. Linn, as middle man, suddenly fell into a hidden crevasse but was arrested by Feuz an...

FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE Yukon Territory, Mt. Logan, East RidgeThe fall occurred shortly after noon on June 14, 1980, as an eight-man party left camp one (10,500 feet) on descent. A snow step underlaid by ice failed under T. Auger causing him to fa...

Rakekniven, First Ascent. It was reported that Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe climbed an aspect called the Snow Petrol Wall on Rakekniven, an overhanging, Cerro Torre-like granite needle in the Filchner Mountains of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Other ...

West Tripyramid, Northwest Ridge. On August 22, Scott Gill, Randy Waitman and I climbed a new route, the northwest ridge of West Tripyramid (3572 meters, 11,720 feet). We established our high camp at 6400 feet on the Traleika Glacier after a five-...

Wall of Clouds, Aularutiksanga, New Route, Previously Unreported. Phil White, Jr., and I left Clyde River on or about May 2 and returned on roughly June 20, 1999. We traveled with our guides Ilko, his son John, and Lamaki for a few days, checking ...

Yanaloma and Don Luis, Quimsa Cruz. In the Quimsa Cruz I climbed two peaks, Yanaloma (5280 meters, 17,323 feet), a first ascent and Don Luis (5360 meters, 17,587 feet), probably a second ascent as there was a cairn on top and I was told that minin...

Mt. McGinnis, east face, Cutthroat Couloir. In early March Jed Brown and I skied in to attempt the unclimbed direct east face of McGinnis. The left-hand serac, and constant spew showering down the lower gully of the face, had us choose to repeat C...

Cerro Torre, Southern Patagonian Icecap. The Italians, Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, failed some 1500 feet below the summit of the Cerro Torre (10,252 feet). They attempted a route up the west face from the western side. High camp was establishe...

Nevado de Pissis and Other Peaks. After exploring Llullaillaco in December 1984 (see below), Louis Glauser and I, driving a jeep, entered the Argentinian side of the Puna. We ascended Cerro Salín (6033 meters, 19,793 feet) on December 27, where, c...

LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount SnoqualmieOn May 12, 1982, Krista Karimi (45) lost control while on her second glissade. She slid 325 meters and fell over a cliff, sustaining head, arm and chest injuries. She was ...

KNOT CAME APART–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Ferguson Canyon, Mission ImpossibleOn July 19, “Dan” (25), and “Jim” decided to beat the heat in the Salt Lake valley by climbing in cool, shady, Ferguson Canyon. Dan scrambled around to set...

Hichukhota Area, Various Ascents. A French expedition spent seven days in the Hichukhota area and made the following ascents: Wila Llojeta (5244m), August 27; Jankho Huyo (5512m), August 28; Jishka Pata (5508m), August 30; the southeast ridge of W...

NUT/CHOCK PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemimte ValleyOn August 19, 1984, Mark Vlahakis (28) was taking a climbing class in direct aid with the Yosemite Mountaineering School when a #1½ Friend pivoted out of a crack, resulting in a fall of...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside Bench, Jam CrackOn September 11, Kristen Shive (26) was attempting to lead Jam Crack. She fell after placing a second piece of protection on the first pitch. T...

Kongur Tragedy. Three prominent Japanese climbers, Yoji Teranishi, Shin’e Matsumi and Mitsunori Shigi, were lost while trying a new route on Kongur. Naoki Takada was the leader. Because the British were on the southern side, the Japanese went to t...

Washington Pass Overlook. On June 25, Brian Burdo, Dave Tower and I did the first free ascents of two routes on the cliff below the Washington Pass Overlook. Bridal Flight follows the obvious open-book in the middle of the cliff. At an overhang, a...

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Highcamp for the winter McKinley party was a snowcave at 17,200 feet West Buttress. All seven climbers attempted the summit from this camp on 27 February, but were turned back by whiteout and storm at about 19,000 feet. The f...

Mulkila 6 (M6), North Face, Lahul. Our Franco-Swiss expedition consisted of Jean-Jacques Asper, O. Paulin and me. After a seven-day approach, by way of Manali, Rothang Pass, Khoksar, Kyelang, Darcha and Yotse, we reached Base Camp on the Mulkila G...

New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 8 February Henry Townsend (52), Deidre Byers (21), and Robert Hall (22), were descending the Escape Hatch on South Gully after a successful climb of Central Gully. One of the climbers slipped and all three plunged...