On June 16, PH was sport climbing on the Wicked Gravity Wall at the Back of the Lake climbing area at Lake Louise, Banff National Park. He had done several routes and was climbing one last route to “cool down” before dark after a long afternoon an...
Cerro Don Bosco, Patagonia. An eight-man expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires spent 32 days at the northern end of the central range of the Patagonian Icecap, northeast of where Tilman was in 1956. They discovered two high peaks on the Chi...
Mount Noyes. In late July, Jack Cade, Hugh Johnston, Pierre LeMieux and I met much of Clan Gmoser at the height of land near the extreme head of Porcupine Creek in the Murchison Group. We had spent the previous five days in the headwaters area of ...
Kara-su Valley, Kirkchilta, northwest face. PavlaPavlikova and I climbed a new line (1,000 Years of Russian Christianity, 4,507m) on the northwest face of Kirkchilta. The walls of Kotina, Kirkchilta, and Asan lie an hour and a half above base camp...
Komarova Glacier, Pic Babushka and Pt 4,850m (“Pic Sabor”), new routes. As half of the Scottish Kizil Asker expedition, Blair Fyffe and I climbed two alpine style routes. The expedition visited the Kokshaal-Too region with the aim of climbing the ...
Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition attempted to climb Manaslu by the northeast face, the first-ascent route. We were Albert Brugger, Gregor Demetz, Karl Grossrubatscher, Friedl and Hans Mutschlechner, Stephan Plangger, Christian Rier, Eri...
Kangbachen. Our expedition was in the mountains from April 16 till May 31. Our members were Piotr Mlotecki, leader, Wojeciech Branski, Andrezej Gardas, Wieslaw Klaput, Marek Malatynski, Jósef Olszewski, Maciej Piatkowski, Dr. Andrezej Pietraszek, ...
Vinson Massif, 1992. Doug Scott and Sharu Prabhu organized a group that flew to Base Camp on the Branscomb Glacier in early December. After several days of ferrying food and gear to the col between Vinson and Shinn, the party spent a rest day befo...
Church Peak, Southeast Face. In the spring my husband Ken and I climbed the southeast face and then for two leads up the exposed summit ridge. This new route is class four.Terry Anderson Pearce
FALL ON ROCK, LEDGE BREAKS BENEATH CLIMBER’S FEET Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn Sunday August 28, Keith Brett (29) fell from the North Chimney while simul-climbing with his partner Matt. Their intention was to climb Perverti...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park (2)—On August 10, 1956 Sam C. Silverstein (19) fell while descending the snow chute along Gibralter as he returned from the summit. He apparently tripped on his crampon, rolled about 100 feet, and was stopped ...
The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny. Kurt Diemberger. Translated by Audrey Salkeld. Grafton Books, London, 1991. 308 pages, profusely illustrated; diagrams and tables, necrology and bibliography. $32. This is not so much a mountai...
Lindita Peak, Chugach Mountains. Jon Fisher and I organized this trip to the head of the Tazlina Glacier. The whole party, Gary Bennin- ger, Gregory Bramlet, Fisher, Halford Joiner, Tom Lamb, Bill Plock, Dr. Randall Travis and I, made the third as...
Thanglasgo Valley, Big Rock Candy Mountain, first ascent; Dawa Peak, Kangsaimathung and Peak 2, new routes. Sheltered in the rain shadow of higher Himalayan peaks, the Nubra Valley is almost high-altitude desert, often expedition-friendly when oth...
FALLING ROCK—Alberta, Lake Louise. Stephen Pope was hiking in the Beehive area behind Lake Louise on July 31 and sat to eat lunch below a rock face. A large boulder fell and crushed his femur. (Source: Banff Crag and Canyon, early August, 1977.)An...
Nevado del Ruiz, Cordillera Central. The Alaska Andean Expedition, David P. Johnston, Peter H. Robinson and I, traversed the Nevado del Ruiz icecap from north to south by way of the 17,180-foot summit on February 19 and two days later climbed it a...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE and HAPE, HACE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressChihiro Sakamaki flew to the Kahiltna base camp on June 10 and immediately began climbing the West Buttress reaching the 14,200 foot camp within 10 days. By June 19, ...
Alte Bündner Bauweise und Volkskunst, by Hans Jenny. 8 vo., 178 pages, with 209 figures, 25 of which are in color, from drawings and painting by the author. Chur: Bischofberger & Co., 1939.The climber who feels that the Alps have lost the glow...
Bojohaghur II (Ultar) Attempt, 1992. A Japanese three-man expedition, led by Toshio Narita, attempted to climb Bojohaghur II, which is also known as Ultar, (7388 meters, 24,240 feet) from Ahmad Abad Glacier. After placing Base Camp at 4000 meters ...
Inner Constance Pinnacles. The easternmost of three pinnacles lying on a spur ridge extending northwest from the north end of the Inner Constance Ridge was climbed June 17, by Pete Schoening, Brian Gordon, and Jim Lindsay. The pinnacle was named “...