The Winter 1967 Mount McKinley ExpeditionGregg BlombergIT was still a dream. The roar of the plane winging its way toward McKinley seemed to make it more unreal. Below, the last traces of Alaska’s white forests gave way to snow- covered foothills....
Half Dome in WinterGregory Lowe, Steinfels Climbing ClubPERHAPS it was the wine of the cool autumn breeze. Or perhaps as climbers sometimes meet, we met. Rob Kiesel was an aggressive downhill racer. Perhaps it was his single- minded drive, which i...
Baruntse North (Khali Himal) (7,057m), north face, Ciao Patrick. It was very, very difficult. We gave it all we had, and finally we reached our goal. The north face of Khali Himal, or Baruntse North, is big, vertical, dangerous, and intimidating. ...
JON GARY ULLIN1943-1974That Gary Ullin has died in the Pamirs is incredible. Gary was strong, both physically tough and emotionally stable. He got up many a climb by his strong steady push; he was of a kind that lives on. The mind won’t accept tha...
Kwangde Lho, north face, new route. In late autumn the French high performance team, a group of young alpinists comprising Nicolas Bernard, Laurent Bibolet, Emmanuel Chance, Nicolas Ferraud, Frédéric Gottadi, Mathieu Mauvais, Thomas Mougenot, Pier...
FALL ON ROCKS, SNAKES—New York, Shawangunks. A thirty-five- year-old climber was on Wrist—a 5.6 route—when he looked down and saw a copperhead snake at his feet. When he moved up, he saw another at his waist. He stepped back into space, falling 60...
Nyegi Kangsang, East-Northeast Ridge. An Indian Mountaineering Foundation expedition led by Col. M.P. Yadav climbed to the summit of Nyegi Kangsang (7050 meters) on October 23 via the east-northeast ridge. This was one of the highest unclimbed pea...
In late May and early June 1981 we visited a group of unnamed and previously unvisited peaks in the northern portion of the remote Revelation Mountains. Doug McCarty, Craig Tillery, Dan Hogan and I landed on a gravel bar alongside an upper fork of...
Angmagsalik Region. A 10-man expedition of the Zasavje Mountaineering Club was led by Janez Bizjak to the area northwest of Angmassalik between Tasilaq and Sermiligaq Fjords and the Glacier de France. The expedition was in the field from July 13 t...
Mountaineering Summary and Statistics, 1997. Last year year saw 38 expeditions comprising 137 people within the icefields of Kluane, a slight drop in numbers from the last few years. (The maximum number of climbers in a single season was 186 in 19...
The Eastern Outlier of Annapurna South1Craig Anderson, Peace CorpsAS the five of us stepped on to the summit, we relaxed our limbs but not our eyes as we gazed at the grandeur of the Annapurna Himal. Northwest of our summit, the massive face of An...
Briefly noted in the 2010 AAJ (p. 84), Jianshanzi (Jianzi Peak) was climbed solo in 2005. The ascent was by Wang Bing, who climbed the southwest face September 28-29, 2005. This mountain lies halfway up the Shuangqiao, immediately west of this v...
East Greenland. Inko Bajde, leader, Franci Gselman, Ivan Šturm, Štefan Senekovic, Boro Jerebek, Adolf Lep, Zvone Koklic, Ivek Verebic, Janez Bizjak and Bojan Pajk reached Angmagssalik on July 7. They were the third Yugoslavian expedition to Greenl...
The North Wall of the GrandRay GarnerIN the 50-odd years it has taken for the Grand Teton to progress from an impossibility to “an easy day for a lady,” many memorable ascents have been made. The peak that was once considered unclimbable has now b...
A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, by Steve Roper. Berkeley, California: The Ski Hut, 1966. 69 pages, 7 photographs, 5 maps. Price: $2.75.This is the second climber’s guide to be published on this compact and pleasant area in Califo...
Nevado Padrecaca, Quepala, Llongote, and Ticlla, Ascents. While Peru is a popular destination, the Cordillera Central is not. Pamela Caswell, Stuart Gallagher, Peter Holden, Ken Mosley, Christopher Woodall, David Wynne-Jones, Ken Findlay and I arr...
Ways to the Sky: A Historical Guide to North American Mountaineering, Andy Selters. Golden, CO: The American Alpine Club Press. 334 pgs. 65 b&w photos, 15 maps. $24.95.When Jeff McCarthy returned this spring from the “International Festival of...
STANLEY S. SHEPARD1938-1993Stan Shepard died on August 12 in the Quimsa Cruz mountains of Bolivia when the vehicle in which he was riding slid off a mountain road in a snowstorm and tumbled 120 meters. Stan died at the scene. He was attempting to ...
Two Relief Maps of the Canadian RockiesIt is stated (Encyclopedia Britannica) that the first tridimensional maps were made by the Incas of Peru. The name “relief” was not applied until a much later time, but probably always has expressed the topog...
P 5445 Attempt and Ascents of Jianshier Feng, P 4348, P 4203 and P 4300. An Anglo-Irish party of five, Mike Banks, Joss Lynam (joint leaders), Phil Gribbon, Paddy O'Leary, and Barrie Page, aged between 60 and 72, climbed the Bogda Feng group of Ti...