FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Banff National Park, Tunnel Mountain, GooseberryOn August 26, a lead climber in a party took a 30 to 40 foot lead fall on third pitch of Gooseberry (II, 5.6) on Tunnel Mountain. He sustained a back inju...

Gangotri Region. There were a number of successful expeditions in the Gangotri region. Japanese Masaki Ohashi and Kaoru Totani climbed Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) on September 30 by the north ridge. Another Japanese expedition led by Mako...

Phenocryst Spire, The Hustler. Mark Reeves and Steve Sinfield, supported by the Welsh Sports Council, arrived at Glacier Lake on July 30. They slogged to Fairy Meadows, set up camp, and waited most of a week for better weather before climbing the ...

Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mountaineering by Peter Crew. London: Constable & Co., Ltd. 140 pages. 30s.In climbing as in other fields there are a number of books that make the readers wonder why someone has taken the trouble to write them. Thi...

“Valhalla" Group. Up the south fork of the Hoh River there seemed to be unclimbed peaks about three miles from Mount Olympus on the southwest ridge towards Pelton Peak, reminiscent of the Bugaboos on a miniature scale. After a reconnaissance ended...

Nevado Cajón, Pre-Columbian and Modern Ascents. The “Momia de Los Quilmes” was possibly an Inca mummy found between 1920 and 1924 in some unknown place near Cafayate, in Salta Province, northern Argentina. The mummy itself is presumably lost but A...

Chicago Mountaineering Club. During the past year our emphasis was on local practice outings at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, where a greater than usual number of outings were conducted. The club’s property near the state park serves as a refuge for man...

SHELDON E. MOOMAW, JR.1944-1978On July 29, 1978, Sheldon Moomaw was killed in a fall on 24,580- foot Noshaq in Afghanistan. With his passing, the climbing world has lost one of its most enthusiastic climbers. At 23,000 feet on Noshaq (after a long...

Chola Shan I and Chola Shan II, Ascents, and Gurla Mandhata, Attempt. It was reported that in late summer and early fall, Charlie Fowler visited China and Tibet, making a solo second ascent of Chola Shan I (6168m) and a first ascent, also solo, of...

Kangchenjunga Attempt. An Australian expedition of five tried to climb Kangchenjunga by the normal route on the southwest face. Leader Michael Groom reached the expedition’s highest point alone on May 13 in a bid to see how high he could get above...

Jirishanca, East Face Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. The Moji Alpine Club of Kitakyushu City was led by Yoshijiro Fujishiro and had six other members. They set Base Camp at Carhuacocha on May 29, Camp I at 16,400 feet on June 7 and Camp II just un...

Charakusa Region, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. Giangi Angeloni, Angelo Carminati and Ennio Spiranelli traveled to the Charakusa Glacier (Hushe Valley) in August, 1997. Various ascents were made: Sulo Peak (6000m) by the South Couloir (5...

Harvard Mountaineering Club. The summer activities of the H.M.C. in 1950 included the ascent of Nevado Yerupajá, Peru, by the Harvard Andean Expedition; and an expedition into the Glacier Circle area of the southern Selkirks, which made ascents of...

P 6390, Ishmurgh Valley. The expedition of the Hiroshima University Medical School Alpine Club climbed in the Chap Darra valley, the western fork at the head of the Ishmurgh valley. On August 5 the leader Tsuyoshi Hirai, Katsuji Doishikawa and Hir...

Pumori. The leader of our Indonesian expedition was Gunawan and the members were Eddy Djuandi, Sukmoyo, Nandang Syamsudin, Trivoni Sugiarto Senapi, Djodjo Sunardjo and me, the only woman. We reached Base Camp at 5340 meters on April 6 after a seve...

Monte Sarmiento, Attempt on Unclimbed West Summit, Tierra del Fuego. November 16 was the only stormless day in the 42 we spent on the expedition. At seven A.M. it stopped raining and the wind dropped at Base Camp on the Canal Magdalena at the nort...

Staunings Alper. Members of the Islandic Alpine Club chartered a plane and flew on July 21 from Iceland to Mestervig. The plane then dropped their gear on the Bersaekerbrae Glacier. Four days later they established Base Camp at 700 meters. They un...

FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierAbout 5:00 p.m. on July 7, rangers at Camp Muir were notified by Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., of a climbing team of three at the 13,000-foot level on the Ingraham Glacier in possible ne...

Jogin I, NorthRidge, 1983. Eight Japanese led by Kaoru Aoyagi established Base Camp at 15,425 feet on Kedar Tal on September 8, 1983, Advance Base at 16,075 feet on the 11th and Camps I and II at 18,550 and 19,850 feet on the 18th and 22nd. On Sep...

“Paramount Peak”, Farnham Group. At 9900 feet “Paramount Peak” is the higher of two prominent rock peaks located at the southern extremity of the Farnham group and visible along parts of the Toby Creek road west of Invermere. On July 23 my wife Gr...