Ama Dablam and Himalayan conditions. The Himalaya appear to be getting drier, so relatively easy mountains are becoming technically more difficult with more exposed rock and more danger from unusual avalanching. Ama Dablam (6,812m) is no longer th...
Southern Appalachian Section. In early 2009 the AAC Sections Committee announced a significant restructuring of the Club’s Southeast Section to divide it into two smaller, more locally focused sections. The Deep South Section would cover Georgia, ...
Aconcagua: The Invention of Mountaineering on America’s Highest Peak. Joy Logan. The University of Arizona Press, 2011. 256 pages. Photos. Paperback. $35.00.If you have a keen interest in mountaineering history, Joy Logans richly researched Aconca...
Annapurna I Attempt, East Ridge. Our Swedish expedition was composed of Lars Back, Åke Back, Lars Cronlund, François Germain, Sten Göran Lindblad, Lennart Olin, Anders Thorbjörnsson, Ebbe Wahlund, Kenneth Westman and me as leader, Sherpas Pemba La...
Mountaineering In Patagonia. Alan Kearney. Cloudcap, Seattle, Washington, 1993. Hardcover. 143 pages, 24 color photos, maps, topos.Having climbed in Patagonia on three separate occasions, I am an aficionado. My infatuation with the region has led ...
1951–981959–9819991999USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock36744458410Snow21093132911Ice19810498River13300Unknown22800Ascent or DescentAscent32584698714Descent19873233514Unknown247401Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2548239627Slip on snow or ice828166165Fal...
On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in the coldest week of 2007, Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I spotted a beautiful granite tower, surrounded by snow and set against a blue sky above Tamarack Lake. Even from a distance, we could see scoops, k...
Bylot and Baffin Islands, ascents and exploration. In May, Louise Jarry and I made a 30-day exploratory ski tour of 300km, with eight peak ascents, from the village of Pond Inlet, Nunavut Territory. On May 1 we were taken by snowmobile on a 5-hour...
Climbs in the Cirque of the Ibex, NuristanJeff DozierALTHOUFH all of the major summits in Nuristan have been ascended by at least one route, there still remain many peaks in the 17,000- to 18,000-foot range that have not yet been attempted. And th...
Summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] Following a string of hot, dry summers, routes that were once climbable year-round in the Canadian Rockies have been increasin...
AS I relaxed into my first-class airline seat and sipped Mumm’s champagne, I reflected that our Soviet exchange was off to a great start. Through no fault of our own, Henry Barber, George Lowe and I had missed our original flight to Moscow, and th...
Cerro Paine Grande, Second Ascent and New Route. Bruno Sourzac (France) and I completed the second ascent of this beautiful peak on October 28, 2000. After countless trips to the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, tired of what was starting to feel...
CHANCE IS AN ACTIVE partner in our lives. It was by chance that I was hitch-hiking from the Lakes to Leeds one Sunday in 1975 when Dennis Grey stopped to ask me to climb with a group of Polish climbers visiting Britain the following week. “Sure,” ...
STRANDED, WEATHER, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn June 16, Deana Barone (25) and Yoshiko Miyazaki (27) started up Royal Arches (5.7 AO, 15 pitches). Though neither had done the route before, ...
Torssukatak Fjord and Quvnerit Island, five new rock routes. After climbing four major new routes on the West Coast (see report from Upernavik region), the Belgian-American team skippered by Bob Shepton climbed five new routes in the Cape Farewell...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED BY CLIMBING PARTNER, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Dunderberg PeakDuring the course of the weekend of 27–29 April, I (Peter Francev, 29) met two friends (Jason Hundley, 30, and P.J. Gordon, 29) near Bridgeport, Cal...
Manless Climbs. The eternal feminine is penetrating to the center of another sport. It is a long time since the Grépon became “an easy day for a lady” and some years now since it was climbed by an entirely feminine “rope.” Now we are faced with ca...
Cold Ice Tunnel on the Silbersattel, Monte RosaJoel E. FisherPreliminary ReportDuring the summer of 1952 a horizontal tunnel at the 4200 m. contour was driven 65 m. into the Monte Rosa Glacier, heading southeast toward the Silbersattel. (Swiss coo...
Jonsang, Attempt. One of the few teams trying something innovative in Nepal last spring was the six-man Irish expedition led by Kieran O’Hara that planned to attempt the unclimbed southeast face of Jonsang, the 7483-meter summit of which forms the...
Himal Chuli. The ill-fated expedition of Britishers from Kenya under the joint leadership of J. W. Howard and Arthur Firmin to Himal Chuli, a 25,800-foot peak in the vicinity of Manaslu, was so beset by misfortunes that it had to abandon the climb...