Accident Reports ANAM
Slingshot Belay Anchor Failure, Fall on Rock, Falling Rock, Arizona, Superstition Mountains, Bark Canyon

SLINGSHOT BELAY ANCHOR FAILURE, FALL ON ROCK FALLING ROCK Arizona, Superstition Mountains, Bark CanyonOn November 11, 1993, a small group went into Bark Canyon to do some climbing. All but one of the group had six months to two years of scattered ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Himal, Everest, First Ascent by a Blind Person

Everest, first ascent by a blind person. The most remarkable of all the summiteers in the spring was the 32-year-old totally sightless American climber, Erik Weihenmayer. On his return to Kathmandu he said “I spent two and a half months getting th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Piton Pulled Out Ontario, Little Blue Mountains

On June 18, Bruce Stover (19), Sherri May (18), John Rothwell (23), Kip Brennan (15), and I (Shawn Shea, 30) arrived at Little Blue Mountain about 1:00 p.m. to do some top roping and lead climbs. Bruce was leading a 5.10 climb called “A-Okay” ...

| Published 1995


Book Reviews AAJ
Swaramandal

Swaramandal, by Pat Ament. Boulder: Vitaar Publishing, 1973. 132 pages, 75 photographs.*Swaramandal is a window into the fierce, pathetic, warm and comic ways of several personalities on the stage of American rockclimbing. It is a portrait of Layt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Great Trango Tower, East Face, Swiss-American Expedition, Second Ascent to the East Summit Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh

Our expedition, consisting of Swiss Xaver Bongard, Ueli Bühler and François Studiman and American photographer Ace Kvale and me, arrived in Pakistan on June 10. On June 24, after a three-day trek from Askole, we made our Base Camp near the mouth o...

| Keywords
| Published 1992 | Author John Middendorf


Notes AAJ
Scientific Notes

Initial Findings of Field Research in the Grinnell Glacier, Everett Mountains Area of Southern Baffin Island, July and August 1981. Field work was conducted in the fiord area fronting Grinnell Glacier and along the lower Oogah River valley in the ...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-20092010GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCANADA*Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arctic82...


Feature Article AAJ
An Optimistic Plan

An Optimistic PlanA series of new routes in Tibet, in preparation for climbing Gyachung Kang, ends when Mike Bearzi slips during the descent from the north face of Ngozumpa Kang II.Bruce Miller“Not a good place to be a yak,” said Mike, accurately ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), Central Summit, Secret of Thin Ice

Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), central summit, Secret of Thin Ice. Two Slovak mountaineers, Andrej Kolarik and Juraj Svingal, climbed a new route to an unclimbed peak in the massif of Pt. 5,930m. This peak is situated on the other site of the main r...

| Published N/A


Feature Article AAJ
Ascents in the Purcell Range

Ascents in the Purcell RangeEaton Cromwell and J. Monroe ThoringtonWHEN David Thompson, geographer of the North-West Com- pany, crossed the Rocky Mountains by Howse Pass, and reached Lake Windermere in the summer of 1807, the news of Trafalgar ha...


Club Activities AAJ
The Arizona Mountaineering Club

The Arizona Mountaineering Club. The AzMC’s membership totaled 518 at year-end 2001. Much of the club’s volunteer administrative effort went into reviewing and updating club policies and guidelines, and considering various risk management issues. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, A Night on Rainier

A Night on Rainier. The first post-war ascent of Mt. Rainier was made on 31 May 1946 by M. M. Miller, Dee Molenaar and C. M. Molenaar, as a “conditioning climb” for their activities on Mt. St. Elias in June and July. The trio made the ascent on th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Delta Range, Item Peak, North Face, New Route

Item Peak, North Face, New Route. On the first Saturday of April, after driving down the Richardson Highway, Shad O’Neel and I skied up Michael Creek. We camped at the base of the Jarvis Glacier/Michael Creek Pass. The next day, we got up early an...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Longs Peak, The Diamond

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Longs Peak, The DiamondWhile leading the second pitch of the so-called “Casual” route on The Diamond face of the east face of Longs Peak, Milton Strickler (30) fell from a point approximately 30 feet above and 30...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, Patterson Bluffs, South Face, Sunset Buttress

Patterson Bluffs, South Face, Sunset Buttress. This 1000-foot-plus cliff is just west of Balch Camp Flake facing south above Balch Camp in Sierra National Forest. In the spring Paul Martzen and I completed a nine-pitch route near the west end of t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Utah, Wasatch Range, North Ridge of Dry Canyon

Utah, Wasatch Range, North Ridge of Dry Canyon. A group of three boys, ages 16, 16, and 13, were hiking on the north ridge of Dry Canyon near Logan. They had ascended the ridge, and Ronald James (16), was standing on a rock when he lost his footin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda

Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda. On July 12 Dave Nettle and Brandon Thau established Barracuda (9 pitches, 5.10) to the right of the Rowell route on the North Pillar. The route is reportedly complicated to describe, and a report was unavailable at pres...


Accident Reports ANAM
Late Start, Failure to Follow Route, Darkness, Stranded, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Indefatigable

LATE START, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, DARKNESS, STRANDEDAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount IndefatigableOn September 14, two women (28 and 36), from Canmore spent the night on a cliff ledge after darkness forced them to interrupt their climb of the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Ruth Gorge, Peak 7,400', Optimist, Mt. Church, My Friends Forever Alaska, Alaska Range

Giri-Giri Boys Kazuaki Amano (leader), Ryo Masumoto, and Takaai Nagato established two new routes in the Ruth Gorge. On April 18-19 they climbed the Optimist (950m, 22 pitches, AK Grade 4, 5.9R M6), on the west face of Peak 7,400'. On April 25-26 ...

| Published N/A | Author Hiroshi Hagiwara


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, North Ridge

Baruntse. I joined the German Alpine Club expedition led by Hermann Tauber, which climbed Baruntse by the southeast ridge. On November 1 South Tiroleans Tauber, Hansjörg Beikirchner, Robert Gasser, German Gerwald Wittmann and Sherpas Nawang Tenzin...