Yanaloma and Don Luis, Quimsa Cruz. In the Quimsa Cruz I climbed two peaks, Yanaloma (5280 meters, 17,323 feet), a first ascent and Don Luis (5360 meters, 17,587 feet), probably a second ascent as there was a cairn on top and I was told that minin...
Mt. McGinnis, east face, Cutthroat Couloir. In early March Jed Brown and I skied in to attempt the unclimbed direct east face of McGinnis. The left-hand serac, and constant spew showering down the lower gully of the face, had us choose to repeat C...
Cerro Torre, Southern Patagonian Icecap. The Italians, Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, failed some 1500 feet below the summit of the Cerro Torre (10,252 feet). They attempted a route up the west face from the western side. High camp was establishe...
Nevado de Pissis and Other Peaks. After exploring Llullaillaco in December 1984 (see below), Louis Glauser and I, driving a jeep, entered the Argentinian side of the Puna. We ascended Cerro Salín (6033 meters, 19,793 feet) on December 27, where, c...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount SnoqualmieOn May 12, 1982, Krista Karimi (45) lost control while on her second glissade. She slid 325 meters and fell over a cliff, sustaining head, arm and chest injuries. She was ...
KNOT CAME APART–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Ferguson Canyon, Mission ImpossibleOn July 19, “Dan” (25), and “Jim” decided to beat the heat in the Salt Lake valley by climbing in cool, shady, Ferguson Canyon. Dan scrambled around to set...
Hichukhota Area, Various Ascents. A French expedition spent seven days in the Hichukhota area and made the following ascents: Wila Llojeta (5244m), August 27; Jankho Huyo (5512m), August 28; Jishka Pata (5508m), August 30; the southeast ridge of W...
NUT/CHOCK PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemimte ValleyOn August 19, 1984, Mark Vlahakis (28) was taking a climbing class in direct aid with the Yosemite Mountaineering School when a #1½ Friend pivoted out of a crack, resulting in a fall of...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside Bench, Jam CrackOn September 11, Kristen Shive (26) was attempting to lead Jam Crack. She fell after placing a second piece of protection on the first pitch. T...
Kongur Tragedy. Three prominent Japanese climbers, Yoji Teranishi, Shin’e Matsumi and Mitsunori Shigi, were lost while trying a new route on Kongur. Naoki Takada was the leader. Because the British were on the southern side, the Japanese went to t...
Washington Pass Overlook. On June 25, Brian Burdo, Dave Tower and I did the first free ascents of two routes on the cliff below the Washington Pass Overlook. Bridal Flight follows the obvious open-book in the middle of the cliff. At an overhang, a...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Highcamp for the winter McKinley party was a snowcave at 17,200 feet West Buttress. All seven climbers attempted the summit from this camp on 27 February, but were turned back by whiteout and storm at about 19,000 feet. The f...
Mulkila 6 (M6), North Face, Lahul. Our Franco-Swiss expedition consisted of Jean-Jacques Asper, O. Paulin and me. After a seven-day approach, by way of Manali, Rothang Pass, Khoksar, Kyelang, Darcha and Yotse, we reached Base Camp on the Mulkila G...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 8 February Henry Townsend (52), Deidre Byers (21), and Robert Hall (22), were descending the Escape Hatch on South Gully after a successful climb of Central Gully. One of the climbers slipped and all three plunged...
FALL ON ICEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Massey Ice FallOn January 9, 1988 (temperature -15 degrees C), Edward and Rick (both 29) set out from the Field railway crossing and started up the normal route on Massey, a grade 3 climb on the north ...
Rimo IV and Other Peaks, 1984. The 25-man Indian Army Engineer expedition reported on briefly on page 308 of A.A.J., 1985 reached the region after a very complicated approach. They got to Base Camp at the snout of the South Rimo Glacier at 15,500 ...
South Face of Disappointment Peak. Near the end of August Dick Pownell suggested that I make a new route with him on the south side of a subsidiary buttress of the Disappointment Peak ridge between Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes. The route requir...
Chimney Rock, Main Peak North Face. Mike Anthony and I climbed the eastern-most chimney on the north face. The chimney was unusual in that it cut very deeply into the peak. The ascent was done on August 10 in a whiteout. We encountered some ice in...
Mount Rainier, Sunset Amphitheater Headwall. On August 1, Brent Eaton and I completed a new direct route on Rainier’s Sunset Amphitheater Headwall. Our route lies on the central buttress directly below Liberty Cap to the left of the 1967 route. It...
Ingalls Peak, East Ridge of the East Peak. This route, first climbed on October 11 by Don Anderson, Barry Prather, Gene Prater and me, ascends the prominent “dike chimney” in the south face of the ridge. This chimney offered grade IV climbing, wit...