Mount Birdwood, East Face. On February 27, Keith Haberl and I climbed a new line of water ice, snow gullies and mixed ground that led directly to the summit of Mount Birdwood. The route is visible from the Burstall Pass parking lot, forty minutes ...
Northern Selkirks. On July 31 Colossal Enterprises reconvened near Downie Creek on the western side of the northern Selkirks. The party consisted of W. L. Putnam, W. Blesser, Paul Doherty, J. Williamson, W. Herlihy, J. L. Stackpole, S. J. Smith, H...
Everest, Hornbein Couloir from the North Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Luis Fraga, Luis Bárcenas, Juan Agustín Casillas, Iñigo Mauleon, Pedro Holst, Bicen Itxaso, Cristóbal Salas, Fernando Garrido and me, all from different regions ...
Various new routes and repeat ascents. From March 31 to April 24 the Freewall Team of the German Alpine Club visited the limestone walls of Taghia. After two years of successful training, where they learned the fundamental climbing tricks, from ai...
FALL IN CREVASSE, UNROPED, CLIMBING ALONE, INATTENTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaNick M. registered at the Columbia Icefield on July 21, 1992, for a solo climb of Mount Athabasca (3490 meters) the following day. He intended to start...
“Real” Mera Peak, Attempt. In the 22 years that the trekking-peak system has been in use in Nepal, the highest of those peaks, Mera, has become hugely popular. The normal route to the 6470-meter summit is technically easy and attracts about 1,000 ...
Dhaulagiri. On April 23, Peter Rohrmoser, Erwin Reinthaler and I left Pokhara with our liaison officer and eight porters to cross the Ghorapani Pass to Tukuche and the Dhapa Pass to Hidden Valley. We had to wait there for some days because five of...
Huacshash, Southern Cordillera Huayhuash. After our Bolivian climbs (see that section), we went through Cajatambo and ascended the Quebrada Ularagra to establish Base Camp a mile northeast of Huacshash at 16,400 feet on the slopes of P 5295 (17,37...
Nanga Parbat, Rakhiot Face; Chongra Main, west ridge, first ascent; Chongra South. Italians Simon Kehrer, Walter Nones, and Karl Unterkircher climbed new routes on 6,830m Chongra Main and the Rakhiot Face (north face) of 8,126m Nanga Parbat. The l...
Valdez Glacier Region. Although the Valdez Glacier region is one of the most historical areas of Alaska because it was used by thousands of prospectors during the gold rush of 1898 as a route into the interior, apparently no climbing party had eve...
Swachand, first ascent of west face and second ascent of peak. This year’s post-monsoon season in the Gangotri region of the Garhwal was greatly affected by a mid-September dump of three to four feet of snow. Climbing expeditions focusing on east-...
P 6394, Broad Peak Group. The expedition of the Ichikawa Alpine Club was composed of Masuzumi Nishina, Katsuyoshi Itoo, Tadeo Tsuruhara, Shiro Omura, Hidenori Iwamot, Izumi Kita, Yoshio Takeda and me as leader. I had organized an expedition for K ...
Cho Oyu from Nepal in the Pre-Monsoon Season. There was nothing new or unclimbed about the ascents on Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) made by expeditions in the spring of 1993. All the Cho Oyu teams, three from Nepal and seven with permits to c...
Polish Caucausus Expedition. This party composed of Prof. Marjan Sokolowsky, Jacob Bujak, Stefan and Tadeus Bernadzikiewicz, Roman Wojsznis, Boleslaw Chwascinsky, Victor Ostrowski and Tadeusz Wisniewski effected a number of climbs, amongthem the f...
Independence Pass, Grotto Wall. This route, Bicentennal, had been one of the great problems of the talented climbers of Aspen. Its four pitches of F10 were climbed by Steve Shea, Lou Dawson and me on June 5. The first pitch is a long traverse, sta...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Oregon, Mount HoodOn October 25, 1992, Terry Beggs (20) and Don Ming (20) started out to “hike” to the summit of Mount Hood. Their clothing consisted of jeans, T-shirts, and work boots. They ...
FALL ON ROCK – NO KNOT ON END OF ROPENorth Carolina, Rumbling BaldOn December 18, my climbing partner, Adam (33), and I (34) were climbing Walk This Way (5.1lb) located in the Hanging Chain area of Rumbling Bald. Neither of us had done this climb ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section had five meetings in 1975 including our now traditional spring meeting in Yosemite and fall picnic at Raffi Bedayn’s home. A major concern has been the Yosemite Master Plan being drafted by the National P...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Climbing during the school year was limited to the bluffs at Devils Lake Park at Baraboo, Wisconsin. A small group climbed in the Tetons in late June and succeeded in climbing Middle Teton by the normal route, but po...
Fairweather Range. On July 5, 1977 Allen Beattie, Duke Greshook, Greg Wagner and I were flown to the lake at the foot of the Grand Plateau Glacier. Following the route of the Gove parties of 1974 and 1977, we hiked the 25 miles to our airdrop at 1...