Kangchenjunga from the NorthDouglas K. Scott, Alpine Climbing GroupFOR MOST OF THE YEAR THE world’s third highest peak, 28,208-foot Kangchenjunga, is hammered by the fierce, westerly-moving air currents which make climbing on the upper reaches of ...
The High Life: A History of High-Altitude Physiology and Medicine. John B. West. Oxford University Press: London, 1998. $79.50.In 1979, when I was in my pulmonary fellowship at the University of Washington, John West invited me to be a climber-sci...
Climbing Days, by Dorothy Pilley (Mrs. I. A. Richards). 340 pages, 69 illustrations, and index. London: G. Bell and Sons, Ltd., 1935. Price 16s.Mrs. Richards says she started writing this book in China, far from her beloved Alps and homesick for t...
Kampire Dior group, Pk. 6,928m, previously unreported attempt. Pk. 6,928m lies on the main east-west watershed separating the Yashkuk and Batura glacier basins, about 5km to the east of the major summit in this region, Kampire Dior (7,143m). The n...
Devil's Thumb and Burkett Needle. On March 15, Gardner Heaton and I were flown onto the Baird Glacier beneath the south faces of Mount Burkett and Burkett Needle. On the 19th we skied the seven miles around to the base of the East Ridge of Devil's...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY,OFF ROUTECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn August 6, 1992, Jamie Serrano (25) and Angel Vedo Fernandez (39)—both from Spain, were climbing the Nose route of El Capitan, and were at a lo...
SOLO ascents have been an accepted part of European mountaineering for some time. The solo climbs of Herman Buhl and Walter Bonatti are a small but significant part of modern climbing literature. But until Royal Robbins soloed El Capitan’s Muir Wa...
Baltoro Cathedral. The Belledo section of the Italian Alpine Club climbed two routes on the Baltoro Cathedral, the southwest ridge with camps and the southeast face alpine-style. Members were Giulio Fiocchi, leader, Dr. Alberto Sironi, Giuseppe La...
Toro Peak, southeast face; Castle Peak, south ridge. It wasn’t until the second half of September that Elena Dmitrenko, George Kozlov, and I arrived in India, too late in the year. We came with no set plans. At first we didn’t even know where to g...
North Paine Tower, Patagonia. During January, 1960, an expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires climbed in the Paine group, hoping to ascend the Paine Towers, which had attracted their attention during last year’s expedition to the Dickson and...
The Riddle of the Cordillera BlancaWho Names a Mountain?by Antonio GÓmez BohÓrquez Translated by Bean BowersIn July of 1985, Onofre P. García and I did a wall route in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca on a peak we knew as “La Esfinge” (The Sphinx), but wh...
WILL HANNUM BORROW, JR.1908 - 1964The Northwest lost one of its devoted mountain men by a coronary on September 3, 1964 in the meadows of the mountains he loved. Born June 17, 1908 in Seattle, Washington, “Jim”, as we all knew him, made Seattle hi...
The Winter 1967 Mount McKinley ExpeditionGregg BlombergIT was still a dream. The roar of the plane winging its way toward McKinley seemed to make it more unreal. Below, the last traces of Alaska’s white forests gave way to snow- covered foothills....
Half Dome in WinterGregory Lowe, Steinfels Climbing ClubPERHAPS it was the wine of the cool autumn breeze. Or perhaps as climbers sometimes meet, we met. Rob Kiesel was an aggressive downhill racer. Perhaps it was his single- minded drive, which i...
Baruntse North (Khali Himal) (7,057m), north face, Ciao Patrick. It was very, very difficult. We gave it all we had, and finally we reached our goal. The north face of Khali Himal, or Baruntse North, is big, vertical, dangerous, and intimidating. ...
JON GARY ULLIN1943-1974That Gary Ullin has died in the Pamirs is incredible. Gary was strong, both physically tough and emotionally stable. He got up many a climb by his strong steady push; he was of a kind that lives on. The mind won’t accept tha...
Kwangde Lho, north face, new route. In late autumn the French high performance team, a group of young alpinists comprising Nicolas Bernard, Laurent Bibolet, Emmanuel Chance, Nicolas Ferraud, Frédéric Gottadi, Mathieu Mauvais, Thomas Mougenot, Pier...
FALL ON ROCKS, SNAKES—New York, Shawangunks. A thirty-five- year-old climber was on Wrist—a 5.6 route—when he looked down and saw a copperhead snake at his feet. When he moved up, he saw another at his waist. He stepped back into space, falling 60...
Nyegi Kangsang, East-Northeast Ridge. An Indian Mountaineering Foundation expedition led by Col. M.P. Yadav climbed to the summit of Nyegi Kangsang (7050 meters) on October 23 via the east-northeast ridge. This was one of the highest unclimbed pea...
In late May and early June 1981 we visited a group of unnamed and previously unvisited peaks in the northern portion of the remote Revelation Mountains. Doug McCarty, Craig Tillery, Dan Hogan and I landed on a gravel bar alongside an upper fork of...