Summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] Following a string of hot, dry summers, routes that were once climbable year-round in the Canadian Rockies have been increasin...
AS I relaxed into my first-class airline seat and sipped Mumm’s champagne, I reflected that our Soviet exchange was off to a great start. Through no fault of our own, Henry Barber, George Lowe and I had missed our original flight to Moscow, and th...
Cerro Paine Grande, Second Ascent and New Route. Bruno Sourzac (France) and I completed the second ascent of this beautiful peak on October 28, 2000. After countless trips to the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, tired of what was starting to feel...
CHANCE IS AN ACTIVE partner in our lives. It was by chance that I was hitch-hiking from the Lakes to Leeds one Sunday in 1975 when Dennis Grey stopped to ask me to climb with a group of Polish climbers visiting Britain the following week. “Sure,” ...
STRANDED, WEATHER, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn June 16, Deana Barone (25) and Yoshiko Miyazaki (27) started up Royal Arches (5.7 AO, 15 pitches). Though neither had done the route before, ...
Torssukatak Fjord and Quvnerit Island, five new rock routes. After climbing four major new routes on the West Coast (see report from Upernavik region), the Belgian-American team skippered by Bob Shepton climbed five new routes in the Cape Farewell...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED BY CLIMBING PARTNER, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Dunderberg PeakDuring the course of the weekend of 27–29 April, I (Peter Francev, 29) met two friends (Jason Hundley, 30, and P.J. Gordon, 29) near Bridgeport, Cal...
Manless Climbs. The eternal feminine is penetrating to the center of another sport. It is a long time since the Grépon became “an easy day for a lady” and some years now since it was climbed by an entirely feminine “rope.” Now we are faced with ca...
Cold Ice Tunnel on the Silbersattel, Monte RosaJoel E. FisherPreliminary ReportDuring the summer of 1952 a horizontal tunnel at the 4200 m. contour was driven 65 m. into the Monte Rosa Glacier, heading southeast toward the Silbersattel. (Swiss coo...
Jonsang, Attempt. One of the few teams trying something innovative in Nepal last spring was the six-man Irish expedition led by Kieran O’Hara that planned to attempt the unclimbed southeast face of Jonsang, the 7483-meter summit of which forms the...
Himal Chuli. The ill-fated expedition of Britishers from Kenya under the joint leadership of J. W. Howard and Arthur Firmin to Himal Chuli, a 25,800-foot peak in the vicinity of Manaslu, was so beset by misfortunes that it had to abandon the climb...
Mount McKinley: The West Buttress, 1951Bradford WashburnTHE first six ascents of the South Peak of Mount McKinley (20,290 ft.) and the three recorded ascents of the North Peak (19,440 ft.) were all made by almost exactly the same route: Cache Cree...
Beyond the Mountain. Elizabeth Arthur. Harper & Row, New York, 1983. 211 pages. $12.95.Elizabeth Arthur’s first novel has some big ambitions. Its structure is intricate, its heroine complicated and its aim lofty: to show, in the context of a H...
In 2009 I climbed new routes in Lofoten (see AAJ 2010) and promised to return to Norway the following year. We did, but unfortunately this time we experienced really bad weather, with long periods of rain. Even when the weather improved for a coup...
FALLING ROCK Washington, Mount RainierA climb of Little Tahoma (3368 meters) was organized by the Seattle Mountaineers as part of their basic climbing course. The party of five left the trailhead at 0815 on August 22, 1988.The party reached the to...
Konsaisu Gaikoku Sanmei Jiten (A Concise Dictionary of Names of Foreign Mountains). Ichiro Yoshizawa. SanseidoPublishing Co., Tokyo, 1984. 613 pages, 55 sketch maps and line drawings, Hardbound.Wholly in Japanese characters, this dictionary survey...
On July 22 a team from the UK, including a US citizen now working in Scotland, set off for Kyrgyzstan. The team consisted of Ian Arnold, Ken Findlay, Paul Hudson, Paul Lyons, Will Parsons (all UK), Susan Jensen (USA) and Shaun the Sheep. Shaun was...
A History of British Mountaineering, by R. L. G. Irving. 240 pages, with 65 illustrations. London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1955. Price, 25 s.There are few places in the world where British have not climbed, and this is becoming true of other nationa...
The Last of the BugaboosLloyd AndersonALL the main summits in the Bugaboo Group of peaks of the Purcell Range in British Columbia had been climbed but one, the South Tower of Howser Spire. The formidable bergschrund on the N. E. face had never bee...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer being an interim season between the biennial climbing camps of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, climbing by members was carried out independently. Nevertheless, activity was by no means diminished. In Europ...