P 6230, South of Umasi La, Kishtwar Himalaya. On July 25, Ian Mills, Neil Brown and I climbed a new route, the north face of P 6230 (20,440 feet). It had previously been climbed by the south face. We ascended a steep 1500-foot glacial snout to 14,...
Everest, Great Couloir. Our expedition was composed of Italians Graziano Bianchi, Battistino Bonali, Dr. Giuliano De Marchi, Fausto De Stefani, Sergio Salini, Wolfgang Thomaseth and me as leader and Czechoslovak Leopold Sulovsky. We set up Base Ca...
Tsangpo Gorge, exploration from India. Motup Chewang, Wing Cdr. V K Sashindran, and I traveled from the Brahmaputra along the Siang River to the Tsangpo Gorge where it enters the Indian territory. Though a few parties have explored the “Great Tsan...
Cuerno Principale, East Face. The still-unattempted east face of Cuerno Principale (2450 meters) was the target of a German team from Neu Ulm. Because of dangerous stonefall in the central part, the route was climbed by the 650-meter left side. Mo...
Mount Logan, East Ridge. Chic Scott, Trevor Jones, Don Chandler and I spent 23 days on Mount Logan. We reached the East Peak on June 20 after an alpine-style ascent of the ten-mile-long east ridge. Much time was spent in storms, including seven ou...
Chopicalqui—After a number of delays due to poor weather and awful snow conditions, John Barrett, Geoff Harrison, and I climbed the southwest ridge of Chopicalqui from Quebrada Ulta on July 23. On the same day, a French party completed a probable ...
Painted Wall, The Serpent. In mid-October, Kennan Harvey and I climbed an all-free variation to the Dragon route on the Painted Wall. We climbed in classic wall style, with the leader free climbing and the second following on jumars. A “true” free...
Fuller Buttes Area, East Face of Jackass Rocks. This face has many fine cracks visible from the road, but closer inspection shows the cracks tend to start 15 to 20 feet above the ground. In May Mark Blanchard, Conrad Van Bruggen, Fremont Bainbridg...
Gasherbrum II. It was reported that seven teams attempted Gasherbrum II this year, all by the Austrian Route. Three were successful. A group of non-Tibetans attached to the permits of the Samdruk-led expedition (see above), including Kryzysztof Wi...
Kanjiroba Himal. A British all-woman expedition under the leadership of Countess Dorothea Gravina climbed the two highest peaks in the Kanjiroba Himal. The higher (22,000 feet) was provisionally named Pinnacle Peak after the club to which all six ...
Peshastin Pinnacles, Butterbrickle Route on Martian Tower. The south chimney was climbed in April by J. Brottem and me. The route begins at the south notch, climbs across the slab a few feet, and then up to a belay with bolts in place. Climb into ...
Ama Dablam, North Ridge. Paddy Freaney, Peter McInally, Graham Elder, Rob Hall, Bob Murie and I walked to our 17,000-foot Base Camp, covering 180 miles in 24 days, with a side trip to the Everest Base Camp for acclimatization. Starting on the nort...
Langtang Lirung, Ascent and Tragedy. The Trieste expedition was composed of Bruno Toscan, leader, Bruno Crepaz, Mauro Contento, Mauro Petronio, Giuliano Ravagnan, Adriano Tavernaro and Dr. Luisa Mestroni. Unfortunately my husband and I found at th...
AlpsAnniversaries. Conditions abroad have naturally precluded any celebrations, but mountaineers throughout the world should recall that 1940 was the bicentenary of the birth of the Genevese scientist de Saussure, who ascended Mont Blanc in 1787. ...
Sajama. On June 1 Dr. Cleve Armstrong, Robin McIntosh, Karen Ann Young, Richard Markham and I reached the summit of Sajama (6542 meters, 21,463 feet) via the west rib. After making extensive research, we believe that ours was the first American as...
Monte Sarmiento, Tierra del Fuego. A group of four Italians led by Giuseppe Agnolotti attempted to climb the west peak of Sarmiento in December, 1969 and January, 1970. They failed because of bad weather.
Washington, Spokane, Tower Mountain. On 22 May Frank Tavares (42) and his son Russell (Rusty), age 19, began a climb of the west face of Big Rock at approximately 6:00 p.m. PST. Rusty led to a point about 80 feet above the base of the route, ancho...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome), North Face. Um Gae-Sung and two other Koreans established three camps on the north face of Tarke Kang. Um and two Sherpas, Pasang Norbu and Lhakpa Tshering, went to the summit on October 27.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan C...
Mount Stewart, North Face. A long approach on the High Sierra Trail and up Lone Pine Creek ended at the base of the previously unclimbed north face of Mount Stewart. On the following day, August 19, Mike Graber, Jack Roberts and I started out on t...
P 6230, Kishtwar Himal. Bob Reid and I made the first ascent of P 6230, previously known to some as “Kishtwar Weisshorn.” We climbed the southwest face of this pyramidal mountain. We approached from the Dharlang Nala with six excellent porters fro...