Northpeak, Deliverance. In August 1980, Jack Roberts and I climbed this route that ascends the narrow face between the 30° snow couloir and the F8 chimney. Nine pitches led to an unroping spot, a long way from the summit. Loose rock, dubious ancho...
OFF ROUTE, FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, NO BELAY/ PROTECTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 0800 on May 29, the “British Army Expedition” departed the 17,200 foot camp with three members: Dr. Martin Kitson, Paul Holmes, and expediti...
Search for old pilgrimage route to Takpa Siri. In remote and rarely visited Arunachal Pradesh, much remains to be explored. One unexplored place had been the Subansiri River valley, in the central part of the area. In November and December a team ...
Aguja Poincenot, Various Ascents. Several ascents were made of Poincenot in the 1995-1996 season, all by the classic 1962 Whillans-Cochrane Route. On January 13, during a brief spell of good weather, three teams crowded onto the route and summitte...
Thor Canyon, Various Ascents. Big Dominquez Canyon is located on the Uncompahgre Plateau near Unaweep Canyon southeast of Grand Junction. Thor Tower is the obvious tower at the head of the canyon. Two routes have been established on the tower. Tho...
Bellicose Peak, Freer’s Cheers, New Route, Previously Unreported. In May, 1998, Carl Oswald and I headed into the Eklutna Valley with sights set on a new route up Bellicose Peak (7,640'). After biking 12 miles, we stashed our ’cycles and walked up...
Ritacuba Negro, Northwest Face, 1980-1. Sergio Gaviria, Colombian, A. Antoine, Swiss and Ecuadorians R. Navarrete and M. Suárez climbed directly the northwest face of Ritacuba Negro (5389 meters, 17,680 feet), a very fine and elegant route, wholly...
Cordilleras Occidental (Volcánica) and Yauyos. Our 12-member Polish expedition first visited the Cordillera Occidental, establishing Base Camp at 4500 meters at Llullipampa, east of Ampato. On June 24 and 25, Kazimierz Glazek, Henryk Gawarecki, Ka...
Sosbun Brakk. Sosbun Brakk was unclimbed although it had been attempted by Germans in 1976. We climbed it by the southwest ridge to the headwall, below which we traversed right to gain the upper slopes. Our expedition consisted of Hisao Hashimoto,...
Nevado Cuyoc, La Face B, New Route, Previously Unreported. On August 18, 1999, Jérôme Blanc-Gras and Sébastien Laurent climbed a 500-meter new route that was primarily mixed (up to M5). Their route tops out on a rocky tower just right of the summi...
FALLING ICE, POOR POSITION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 3 or 4,1986, a party of two was climbing the North Face of Mount Temple. Climbing conditions and weather were excellent, with clear skies and moderate temperatures. The rou...
Hiunchuli, Southeast Face. Rising 10,000 feet above the Modi Khola gorge, Hiunchuli (6441 meters, 21,133 feet) presents a climbing and route- finding challenge. We arrived at our 13,200-foot Base Camp after a strenuous 3000-foot climb up grass slo...
Annapurna South Face Winter Attempt, 1986. A Bulgarian expedition led by Boian Atanasov attempted the very difficult Polish route on the south face of Annapurna. They failed in the winter season after being granted a time extension to February 22,...
Stok and Dhampu Peaks, Various Ascents. It was reported that Alberto Urtasun and Patricia Viscarret made the first ascent of the northeast face of a peak they dubbed “Dhampu Peak” (5150m) in the Lahaul Valley via the route Marsa (30-80°, 400m). Th...
Chaukhamba. A 38-man team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police was led by Assistant Commandant Vinod K. Dandona. Despite very deep snow, they established Base Camp at 4725 meters on the Bhagirath Kharak Glacier on May 22. Camp II was set up on May ...
The Tetons. During the past two summers considerable attention has been given to the unclimbed routes and peaks of Grand Teton National Park. A short description follows of the climbs, from south to north, made this year or last and not previously...
Kilimanjaro, Credner Glacier. What started out as a centennial commemoration of Hans Meyer’s first ascent of Kilimanjaro 100 years ago evolved into an exploration of the westernmost ridge and a new route up the remote Credner Glacier. The team was...
Vinaya, Antaimarca and Vichgana, Cordillera Vilcanota, and Allinccapac, Cordillera Carabaya. Our expedition of the Munich section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) was composed of Herbert Konnerth, Bernd Lukas, Rainer Stolz, Horst Ullrich, Felix Gol...
Idaho, Cliff near Lava Hot Springs—On June 2, 1954, Ray Duane Richards (17) fell while descending a cliff. He and a companion had successfully climbed the cliff and during the descent, Richards apparently lost his footing and fell 75 ft. to his de...
Factory Butte, San Rafael Swell, School for Advanced Suffering. The route was first climbed by Cheryl Hogan and me on December 22, 1994. Cheryl bailed off at pitch one after passing out due to mild hypothermia. I continued the route, free soloing ...