Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Icicle Ridge, Ida Creek

Washington, Icicle Ridge, Ida Creek. On 6 July Glenn Bruton (44) and Howard Anderson (42) were traversing down 2,300 yards above creek bottom. They stopped to rest. As they started again Anderson got a bit ahead. He looked back and saw Glenn start...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome)

Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). Josef Oberauer led three Austrians, two Germans and an American on a successful climb of Tarke Kang’s normal southwest route. They had four camps above Base Camp. On October 22 Oberauer, Klaus Solbach, Miss Herta Kantner...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, No Name Pyramid

No Name Pyramid. On August 12, Jack Roberts, Mike Graber, and I climbed a new route on the east face of a prominent peak referred to as “nameless pyramid 0.2 miles south of Kearsarge Pass” in the guidebook. Starting from Heart Lake, our route foll...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, The Prow, Bitterroot Mountains

The Prow, Bitterroot Mountains. In unusually dry weather, I spent eight days finishing the first free-ascent of the 900-foot south face of the Prow. With the help of Steve Porcella and later Ralph Grana, Timebinder (IV, 5.11) links four different ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, International Kanchenjunga Expedition

The latest dispatches relative to the International Kanchenjunga Expedition announce that the attack has been abandoned for this year. They will attack instead Jonsong Peak (24,300 ft.) from the Jonsong La, returning to civilization through Nepal ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Colorado Mountain Club

The Colorado Mountain Club. The year 1997 brought success and change to The Colorado Mountain Club. In January, John Juraschek became the CMC executive director and Chip Drumwright began his term as president. Their biggest challenge was finishing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Kashmir-Jammu, Climbs in Kashmir-Jammu

Climbs in Kashmir-Jammu. Nun (7135 meters, 23,400 feet) was climbed in July by six of the ten Spaniards who attempted it, including José María Jayme and Santiago Amibas. They were followed to the summit on October 1 and 3 by nine Japanese led by E...


Club Activities AAJ
Alpine Club of Canada

Alpine Club of Canada. 1972 proved to be an active year for the Alpine Club of Canada, with membership steadily increasing and club activities becoming increasingly popular. The General Mountaineering Camp was held at Fryatt Creek in Jasper Nation...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Argentina, Chalten Massif, Aguja Rafael Juarez, Blood on the Tracks; and Desmochado, The Sound and the Fury

Aguja Rafael Juarez, Blood on the Tracks; and Desmochada, The Sound and the Fury. In December, Taki Miyamoto (Japan), Freddie Wilkinson (New Hampshire), Paul Tureki (Alaska), and I (Maine) established a new route on Cerro Innominata (also known as...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Waterfall Ice, Unroped, Exceeding Abilities, Haste, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle, Professors Gully

FALL ON WATERFALL ICE, UNROPED, EXCEEDING ARILITIES, HASTEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle, Professors GullyA group of experienced climbers had finished the first pitch of the Professors Falls, a popular waterfall route near Banff. The climb...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to Seneca Rocks, West Virginia

A Climber's Guide To Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. Edited by F. R. Robinson, Potomac Appalachian Trail Mountaineering Section, 1971. $2.50.Finally there is an accurate assemblage of the routes on this fine crag in the Potomac Highlands of West Virg...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Ri Attempt

Langtang Ri Attempt.Peter Konzert and two other Austrians tried to climb Langtang Ri (7205 meters, 23,638 feet) by the southwest ridge, on which they reached 6700 meters on October 20.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Balakun

Balakun. This virgin peak of 21,430 feet northeast of Nilkanta was climbed on July 9 by a six-man team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by Hukam Singh.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cordilleras de Agua Negra and Olivares, San Juan

Cordilleras de Agua Negra and Olivares, San Juan. In January Pablo and César Carlacchiani and I continued exploring this beautiful zone. On January 12, we got from Las Flores to Base Camp at Gendarmería Nacional (Border Police) post at Guardia Yie...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falls on Rock, Rappelled Off End of Rope, Pennsylvania, Ralph Stover State Park

FALLS ON ROCK, RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPEPennsylvania, Ralph Stover State ParkThere were three climbing accident reports from this area. One involved a belayer not being attentive to the climber as he fell, resulting in lacerations and bruises. Ano...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Himalaya, Mount Everest

Mount Everest. The expedition of this last summer led by H. Ruttledge and composed of C. G. Crawford, Captain E. St. J. Birnie, Major Hugh Boustead, P. Wyn-Harris, Dr. C. R. Greene, Dr. W. W. McLean, J. L. Longland, E. E. Shipton, E. O. Sheb-beare...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Gurla Mandhata (Naimona' nyi)

Gurla Mandhata (Naimona’nyi). Our expedition consisted of Hansruedi Staub, Paul Tschanz, Diego Wellig and me as leader. After long negotiations, the Chinese government allowed us to travel to China with our own vehicles so long as we should leave ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Samdo (6,335m), North Ridge; Panpiche I (6,620m), Northeast Ridge, Attempt Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Himal

Yoshitaka Kameoka, Kohei Kotani, Daisuke Nakatsuka, Seiya Nakatsukasa, Hiroki Yamamoto, and I as leader, all from the student section of the Japanese Alpine Club, hoped to climb the virgin peaks of Samdo and Panpoche I (Pang Phunch I or Kutang Him...

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| Published 2009 | Author Yusuke Kuramoto


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Snoqualmie Pass—The Tooth

Washington, Snoqualmie Pass—The Tooth—On Sunday, June 16, with fine weather, a group of four climbers made a successful ascent of the east face of The Tooth. They were descending from the east notch on easy third-class scrambling, and moved onto a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Chock Failure—Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Deer Mountain Buttress

CHOCK FAILURE—Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Deer Mountain Buttress. On August 15, John Purvis (22) and Dennis Laird (24) were climbing a vertical technical route on the Deer Mountain Buttress. The route was mixed free and aid. Purvis was...