Mount Logan, South-Southwest Spur Attempt. Urs Kallen, Dave Lloyd, Murray Toft, Dick Renshaw, Ron Langevin and I arrived at Base Camp below the south-southwest spur of Mount Logan on May 27. Between May 28 and June 9 we fixed 6000 feet of rope up ...

Mount Redoubt, 1979. Dave Haring, Don Spurlock and I climbed Mount Redoubt (10,197 feet) from July 3 to 8, 1979 via the northwest ridge and glacier system. Winds in excess of 60 mph pinned us down for a day in our 6000-foot-high camp.Stephen Kruse

California, Matterhorn Peak—On June 15, while descending a broad snow chute on Matterhorn Peak, George Wallerstein (28) tripped and fell. As he attempted a self-arrest with his ice ax somehow he was impaled on the point, which went completely thro...

FALL ON ROCK, NUT FAILURE—New York, Shawangunks. A nineteen-year-old former NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) instructor fell on the first pitch of Frog’s Head—a 5.5 route—pulling a hex nut and dropping 30 feet to the ground, breaking a ha...

Little Iskander and Pik Domaskaya, Ak Su. Fabrizio Defrancesco, Stefano Nicolussi and I climbed above the Ak Su valley in July. After a two-day approach, we set up Base Camp at 2800 meters on June 30. We were attracted to the 750-meter-high face o...

P 11,300, West Face Couloir, West Fork of Ruth Glacier. Bob Crawford and I flew to the Ruth Glacier on April 17. After several days of storm and reconnaissance, we climbed a hidden couloir on the west face of P 11,300. The couloir was 2500 feet lo...

Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. Rundle—On August 10, Mr. and Mrs. Ronald A. Weisner, Mr. Paul Bloland, all of Minneapolis, and Miss Ruth Seefeldt of Des Moines, members of the Iowa Mountaineers, attempted to climb Mt. Rundle.They were driving to...

Alpamayo; Artesonraju, East Face; Artesonraju; Aguja Nevada, North Face; Caraz Este, North Face; Quitaraju. The Dartmouth Mountaineering Club Andean Expedition was composed of John and Spaff Ackerly, Tim Ammons, Chris Copeland, B.A. Doyle, Blake K...

RAPPEL FAILURE, PITON FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lyell GroupStuart Price and three companions were returning to camp on 2 August 1979 after practising crevasse rescue on a stormy day. Price and a companion started up a rock gully but decided...

Colonial Peak, Northeast Gully, East Ridge. On July 5, Scott Mason-holder and I left Colonial Creek Campground and hiked up the new 1½-mile trail which follows Colonial Creek on the left side. Leaving the trail, we followed a dry creek bed which l...

Grand Teton, Second Tower, South Ridge. This difficult route was first climbed on August 2 by David Ingalls and Scott Brun. After a start in the couloir between the Second Tower and the summit of the Grand, the party ascended a red dihedral in eig...

Trapecio, West-southwest Buttress, Cordillera Huayhuash. From July 12 to 18 our expedition from the Meda Section of the Italian Alpine Club attempted to climb the south face of Sarapo, stopping at the final schrund because the ice conditions highe...

Gunnbjornsfjeld, Ascents. I took a group of (mostly) senior citizens to climb Gunnbjornsfjeld, the highest peak on Greenland, and in the Arctic. This was my third guided ascent of the peak. We flew out of Iceland and landed on the ice of Greenland...

Colorado Mountain Club — Growth describes the year 1964 for The Colorado Mountain Club. An increase in membership from 1500 to 1800, plus two new groups, one in Aspen and a Junior (teenagers 14-21) in Boulder, brought the total number of C.M.C. gr...

Maiktoli, South Ridge. A Japanese six-man party led by Hitoshi Fukuriki made the first ascent of the south ridge of Maiktoli (22,320 feet). From Base camp at 12,500 feet, they started up the southeast spur of the south ridge. Camps I, II, III and ...

Buck Mountain, the Wedge. On August 1 Peter Lev, Herb Swedlund and I walked into the south fork of Avalanche Canyon to try the "Wedge," a vertical facet on the north face of Buck Mountain, west of Emerson’s route on the north-northwest ridge. That...

Ausangate. We left Tinki on June 13 and traveled through Upis to Pucacocha. We climbed to a pass between Pucacocha and Ausangate- cocha on Ausangate’s south ridge and started up the ridge. At 17,000 feet we traversed right to camp on the southeast...

Blow Me Down Provincial Park, Ice Routes. On January 1, Arthur Haines and I took the ferry to Port-aux-Basques, Newfoundland. Our plan was to climb ice routes rumored to be located above the large inland fjords within Gros Morne National Park. How...

Hualca Hualca, Cordillera Volcánica. An Italian expedition had as members Celso Salvetti, leader, Vittorio Meroni, Fabio and Mariola Masciadri, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Mario Bignami and Ludovico Gaetani. Their first objective had been a complete trave...

“Crow Peaks”. Two great buttresses rise to the several summits of the “Crow Peaks” on the west side of Bow Lake above the Icefields Highway. On June 30 Steve Marts and I climbed the northernmost buttress, which leads directly to the northern summi...