Nuptse, North Face Attempt. We aimed to climb the north face of Nuptse (25,850 feet) from the Western Cwm without Sherpa support and without the use of fixed ropes. A few weeks before departure, a team experienced in light-weight expeditioning eme...
Symposium Rock, New Practice Area. This newly “discovered” granite buttress rivals the Castle Rock of Tumwater Canyon near Leavenworth. It has been named Symposium Rock and there are a variety of routes on fair to excellent diorite. It is located ...
Baruntse Winter Ascent. As we go to press, we receive news of the first winter ascent of Baruntse by a Japanese expedition from Hokkaido led by Kazuo Hayashi. After an approach up the Barun Glacier, they set up Base Camp at 16,350 feet on December...
Cordillera de Cocapata, Exploratory Climbing. My attention was drawn to the Cordillera de Cocapata near Cochabamba by Evelio Echevarría’s description of its granite peaks as a potential “rock climbers’ playground” (see “Cordillera de Cocapata, Bol...
Half Dome, Growing Up. In July Sean Jones and Sarah Watson completed Growing Up (5.13a A0), a 21-pitch new route up the center of the largely overlooked south face of Half Dome. The route begins with the last unclimbed crack line in the Great Arch...
Numbur, Rolwaling Himal. The Himalayan Expedition of Chiba University consisted of six Japanese: Makoto Numata, leader, Kazumoto Suzuki, sub-leader, Kyoji Yoda, Koichiro Shimada, Hiroshi Matsuo, Kodzo Kohama, and one Swiss guest: A. P. Hirsbrunner...
Langshisha Ri. A nine-man, two-woman Japanese expedition made the second ascent of Langshisha Ri (6300 meters, 20,670 feet), using the same route, the south face, climbed by other Japanese in the spring. On October 6 the leader Shozo Terakawa and ...
The Colorado Mountain Club. Mountaineering: Our schools, particularly the spring schools of Basic and Intermediate Mountaineering continue to attract sizable classes—150 for the Basic and 40 for the Intermediate. We have had no serious accidents o...
A Necklace of Slings. Dave Gregory. The Ernest Press, 1995. 181 pages. Line drawings. £15.Dave Gregory gives us a real potpourri: personal narrative, fiction, a little poetry, even a comic, pseudo-scientific treatise on cooking porridge. I found t...
Pegish Zom. The Prague Badhakshan Expedition was led by Dr. Václav Lachout. Zdenek Brabec, Zdenek Filla, Dobroslaw Metelka, Petr Mares, Antonin Srb, and Jaromir Wolf also took part. They made the following ascents: Kohe Kabul (17,287 feet; Wala pe...
East Huey Spire, Riders on the Storm. In July, after five days of travel from Colorado, Evan Stevens and I unloaded our gear from the plane at Glacier Lake and trekked through three miles of hell. After losing the “trail,” we took six hours of bus...
Purcell Range of British ColumbiaBugaboo Group. Under the leadership of George MacGowan a party of the Seattle Mountaineers visited this area in July, 1940, ascending most of the important summits. They suggest that Crescent Spire is not higher th...
Slesova Peak, Moroz Route, Ascent. In the Russian Mountaineering Championships, third place was taken by the Moscow team “Treksport” (S. Pugachev, leader, T. Akhmegkhanov, A. Guceva, S. Kovalev, A. Lastochkiy, and I. Pekhtepov) who climbed the Mor...
Illampu, East Face. On July 9 two Spaniards from the Canary Islands, César Tejador and Antonio Ramos reached the summit of Illampu (6362 meters, 20,873 feet) by a new route on the left side of the east face, left of the buttress climbed in 1975 by...
FALL WHILE DESCENDING–INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT (CLIMBING ROPE, RAPPEL DEVICE, HARNESS, BRAIN CELLS)New Mexico, Jemez Mountains, Yoyo PitOn May 16, a man and his girlfriend were on an excursion in the Santa Fe National Forest, which had been closed due...
Fitz Roy. John Hudson and Roman Laba arrived in the Fitz Roy region early in 1969. They made several attempts on the peak but were thwarted by bad weather.
Kangchenjunga North Face Attempt. Spanish Basques unsuccessfully attempted to climb Kangchenjunga from the north but were thwarted by bad weather. On May 20, leader Felipe Uriarte, Xabier Ansa, Juan Oiarzabal and José Luis Zuloaga reached 7800 met...
CLIMBING ALONEWashington, Mount RainierOn January 6, 1985, the park communications center received information that there was a climber in the White River area who was preparing for a solo climb. This information was relayed to Park Ranger Bob Mar...
The Colorado Mountain Club during 1948 ran in Trail and Timberline a series of simple line sketches entitled “This could happen to you.” By means of these sketches, experiences of Club members were portrayed and their near-accidents or actual ones...
Washington Column. In August, Stewart Irving and I climbed a new 8-pitch section on the east face of Washington Column between Mideast Crisis and the Great Slab routes, which we call Saddam Hussein (V, 5.9, A4). After a 5.5 pitch, we climbed steep...