Satopanth. Andrej Gradišnik, Rok Preložnik, Danilo Tic and I first tried to climb Satopanth from the south via the Swachand Glacier but the snow and rock on the south side were too poor. We moved to a new base on the north side and climbed the nor...
Yakshin Gardan Sar, Third Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Hiroshi Tateoka originally had permission for Rimo, but because of a border dispute, the authorities changed their objective. They approached from the Hispar Glacier over a col north o...
Rwenzori (Ruwenzori) Mountains, Mountains of the Moon, an historical overview and recent ascent of Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m.). Rwenzori Mountains National Park is located on the border between Uganda and Zaire. It contains six major gl...
Lahul Himalaya. Capt. R. G. Platts and Mr. N. W. Wollaston spent six weeks in this region in August and September 1954. From a base camp in the Sissu Nala they climbed Peak 18,930 feet, eight miles southeast of Kyelang. From a 17,000-foot camp on ...
Salcantay Attempt. On July 15 José Astudillo and Antonio Alcalde were 350 feet below the top of Salcantay when they were struck by a great storm, which forced them back. We had been attempting the north ridge, the best approach to which would have...
Torre Sur de Paine, 1991. On November 1, 1991, Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz and Spaniard José Carlos Tamayo made the fourth ascent of the normal north ridge and the sixth to the summit of the South Paine Tower after fixing 300 meters of rope.
Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt, Tien Shan. We hoped to climb Tuomur, which the Soviets call Pik Pobedy, from the Chinese side. Our Japanese women’s expedition was made up of Dr. Shiori Hashimoto, Yuko Kuramatu, Mayuri Yasuhara, Nobuko Yanagisawa, Ki...
San Lorenzo, Patagonia. This peak, 11,647 feet, probably the second highest in Patagonia, which lies on the Chilean-Argentine frontier, was first ascended by the Padre de Agostini, in 1941, with A. Hemmi and H. Schmoll. On January 19, 1956 the Arg...
Asgard, North Face of North Tower, “Valkyrie.” Chris Breemer and I put up a new line on the north face of the north tower of Asgard, which we completed on July 24 (VI, A4+; 14 pitches.) We had two days of good weather out of the fourteen we were o...
Black Peak, Bandarpunch. The 20,623-foot peak was climbed by four schoolboys led by Hari Dang on June 12 from a Camp III. Two were Sanjiv Sawhney and Maninder Singh. The mountain was first climbed in 1959 by Jagjit Singh’s Indian expedition.Kamal ...
FALL ON ROCK - LOOSE ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, The Diamond,On August 27 at 8:00 a.m., two NPS Climbing Rangers on the third pitch of Yellow Wall on The Diamond heard rockfall and saw ...
On Skis Over the Mountains, by Walter Mosauer. 8 vo., 85 pages, with xi diagrammatic plates. Hollywood. The Cloister Press. Price $0.50.This illustrated primer of modern skiing, based on the Arlberg technique, has been written by Dr. Mosauer, a me...
Bojohangur Duan Asir II or UltarSar Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Hasegawa had hoped to make the first ascent of Bojohangur Duan Asir II (7388 meters, 24,240 feet). They reached Base Camp at 3300 meters on the Ultar Glacier on Septe...
Teng Kang Poche, first ascent of the northeast face to east ridge. During November 2003 Jules Cartwright and I made two attempts on the 1,600m northwest face of Teng Kang Poche (6,500m), the first of which also included Al Powell. An easy approach...
Eruption in Colombia. Seventeen students were reported killed in a sudden eruption near the summit of the 15,416-foot volcano Purace (2° 20' N., 76° 40' W.) on 26 May 1949. The volcano had been inactive for 16 years. Two other students, who were b...
Prior Peak (10,750 ft.) and Unnamed (10,150 ft.). July 8th, 1937. First ascents of these were made in a continuous route from camp below the tongue of Freshfield glacier. E. Cromwell, E. Cromwell, Jr., Miss G. Engelhard, F. S. North, J. M. Thoring...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Attempt from the South in the Pre-Monsoon. Malcolm Duff from Scotland led an international group consisting of 6 Britons, 1 New Zealander, 2 Americans and 1 Venezuelan to Cho Oyu. On May 8, Britons Duff, Dave Horrex and Neil Lin...
Cordillera Blanca, Various Ascents. Peru 1996, once a dream, was now a reality. We were in for two months of the South American goods. Our team mainly consisted of four: Lome Glick, Kent McClannan*, Topher Donahue, and myself*. After a three-day a...
Golden Horn: First Ascent. On 18 September 1946 the first ascent of Golden Horn (8400 ft.) in the N. E. Cascades was accomplished by Fred Beckey, Keith Rankin and Charles Welsh. The approach was from Horseheaven Camp, ten miles from the Hart’s Pas...
Pinnacles National Monument. It was a quiet year in the Pinnacles National Monument. To the right of “Agrarian,” John Barbella and James McConachie recommend their route, Heat-Seeking Missile (5.10c). Some of the protection bolts for this climb we...