Everest Tragedy. On June 19 Roger Marshall set out with the hope of making a solo ascent of Mount Everest via the Japanese and Hornbein Couloirs. He made good progress and, at the end of the second day, he was at the foot of the Hornbein Couloir. ...
Oujdad, north face and west spur. A Spanish team added a fine line while we busied ourselves with La Bas. In September Luis Alfonso, Dani Martin, and Javi Saez put up Los Ratones Coloraos on the north face of Oujdad. The 400m route has 12 main pit...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaOn July 12, 1992, two Calgarians, R. V. and E. W., were climbing Corkscrew, a 5.8 multipitch route near the east end of the southeast face of Mount Yamnuska, when R. V., w...
Merci Peak Group, Ascent. In October, Michal Brunner, Jiri Svejda and I climbed the 1200- meter west face of a ca. 6200-meter summit in the Mera Peak group. The wall lies right above the village of Tangnang. We do not know if it was a first ascent...
Dhaulagiri. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, Dr. Elisa- bettaCastellaro, Fausto Destefani, Aristide Galbusera, Silvio Mondinelli, Claudio Schranz, Maurizio Simonetto, Lino Zani, Sergio Martini and me as leader. Our original plan of...
Millpo Grande. The Millpo group lies south of the Huayhuash and separated from it by the Pumarinri valley and west of the Raura and separated from it by the Surasaca valley. After the 1974 Italian expedition, the eastern side of the group remained...
Overview. Pakistan granted permits to 76 applicants to climb various peaks in 2008, including 13 teams that applied to attempt multiple peaks. Two expeditions could not be granted permission for peaks situated close to the Siachen Glacier war zone...
"Bashful Peak,” Chugach Range. "Bashful Peak” (about 8050 feet) was named unofficially by MCA members because it hides behind another tall mountain. On the evening of July 17, Helga Bading, Rodman Wilson, Paul Crews, Gregg Erickson, and I left the...
Januhut, attempt. The Austrian team of Josef Jochler and Christian Zenz were the first party to attempt this 6,807m peak. Following the usual Gangotri-Tapovan approach, they established base camp on May 19, then reached the head of the long Gangot...
Sia Kangri, Central Summit. Peter Liechti, Heidi and Albin Schelbert and I arrived at the end of the main part of the Baltoro Glacier on July 30 after a ten-day trek from Dasso. We kept only two porters and with them carried our equipment up the u...
Cholatse Winter Attempt. Two Australians and a Briton led by Armando Corvini attempted to make a winter ascent of Cholatse. On November 26, they got to 5000 meters on the west face and on December 5, to 5900 meters on the northwest ridge.Elizabeth...
The Austrian Scientific Expedition. This group under the leadership of Prof. Hermann Mark, and comprising Peter and Josef Schintlmeister and Eugen Baroni went out primarily to make observations on the “heavy water” content of the glacial regions o...
Glenwood Canyon. Mike Kennedy, Molly Higgins and I wondered if a classic rock climb could be done on the not so sound limestone walls of Glenwood Canyon. We made the climb, Death Wish, on April 10. The route is located a mile up the Hanging Lake T...
FOOTHOLD DISINTEGRATED, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLEDOUT, NO HARD HATOregon, Mount WashingtonAugust 16, 1992. The Chimney of Space route begins at a belay stance about 20 feet off the ground. The lead climber (30) led off by ascending a narrow, ...
STRANDED, RAPPEL ERROR – ROPE TOO SHORTNorth Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's WallOn November 5, a male climber (28) with limited experience and unfamiliarity with the Sentinel Buttress area of Moore’s Wall rappelled to the end of his ro...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. At its winter dinner the Oregon Section hosted the Club’s officers and board members. The evening proved to be a memorable one because of the camaraderie generated between the veterans of previous K2 expeditions who were pr...
Spokane Mountaineers. New routes and historic trails were equally fascinating during 1959. In the Idaho Selkirks Don Bergman led first-ascent routes on the north face of Chimney Rock, Gunsight Peak, and Roman Nose for a combined 1500 feet of class...
Correction: On page 543 of A.A.J., 1978 it was incorrectly stated that “Mount Vancouver was first climbed in 1938 by Noel Odell and party.” The ascent actually took place on July 5, 1949. Although Odell was a member of the party, the leader of the...
Half Dome, Blue Shift. On June 1, Karl McConachie and I completed a new route on Half Dome. Blue Shift (VI 5.11c A4) follows crack systems that lie between Arcturas and Same As It Never Was, a route that Karl, Randal Grandstaff and I put up in 198...
Almost all of the new route activity in the Tetons was concentrated in the Death Canyon area. Both the south walls leading to Prospectors Mountain, and the north walls leading to Peak 10552, as well as Buck Mountain itself, were attacked with spec...