Everest, Japanese and Hornbein Couloirs. A Swedish expedition led by Jack Berg made the ascent of Everest via the Japanese and Hornbein Couloirs. On May 15, two Sherpas, Mingma Norbu and Galbyu got to the top. They were followed on May 20 by Lars ...
Mount Alverstone, Northeast Face. During the closing days of a long spell of excellent weather toward the end of July, John Rupley, Henry Mather, George Lowe and I made the second ascent of Mount Alverstone (14,500 feet) by a completely new route ...
Tingchen Kang (6,010 m), bureaucratic problems. An Indian (Bengal) team led by AVM A. K. Bhattacharya and sponsored by the Himalayan Club from Kolkatta climbed this peak on 6th November. The summiteers were Subrata Chakraborty with Sherpa Pasang P...
Cuerno Norte, East Face, Fist Full of Dollars. British climbers Louise Thomas, Mike Turner, Martin Doyle and Ollie Sanders made the first ascent of the 800-meter east face, an overhanging face that yielded 20 pitches at a grade of up to A3+. Begin...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Cody South Fork, Deer CreekOn January 28, we were halfway down a steep 400-foot gully on our way to Deer Creek, where we would then walk downstream to the Ghosts, a couple of WI 3+/4 routes t...
Peak 9300 (“Double Exposure”), Eastern Alaska Range. One-and-a-half day’s travel brought Tom Kensler and me to the foot of the O’Brien Icefall, which separates the Canwell Glacier from the Old Snowy branch of the Gerstle Glacier in the Delta Mount...
Mount Logan. A scientific expedition led by D.P. Jones and me operated out of a geodesic dome shelter erected on the northwest col in July. The work is connected with a proposed ice core drilling operation in 1979. See Canadian Alpine Journal 1979...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Irene’s AreteIn July of 1994, Scott Putnam and I climbed Irene’s Arete (5.8) on Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. We climbed th...
Huascarán. In August Gerry Clegg, Colin Arnold, Ellen J. Harpham and I, Americans, and Pablo Morales, Antonio Vargas and Víctor Albino, Peruvians, reached the summit of Huascarán by the Garganta route.Jack Miller
Chief’s Head, The Headdress. Following a wet summer, a cold September caused ice to form in unusual places in RMNP. Eli Helmuth and I climbed a smear originally found by Duncan Ferguson on the north face of Mt. Meeker. A week later, Helmuth was gu...
Selected Climbs in the Cascades. Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, 1993. 234 pages. 142 black-and-white illustrations, 26 topos, 4 line maps. $22.95The Cascades offer some of the most varied climbing terrain ...
Disappearing Dome, Southeast Face, Memphis Blues. This obscure route, visible from Balloon Dome, was found after many hours of deciphering mazes of Forest Service roads. After one aborted attempt we wandered through seemingly endless logging slash...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Three New Routes. In October, Chester Dreiman and I climbed three new routes here on consecutive days. The first climb, Escape Artist (IV, 5.11) scales a large buttress on the left side of SOB Gully. The next day we c...
Mount Eisenhower, Southwest face. When the Calgary Mountain Club erected a bivouac hunt on Mount Eisenhower in 1967 I predicted that the southwest face would see a lot more climbing. The following new routes were put up in 1968: (a) Bass Buttress ...
Gasherbrum I Attempts. Eight Tibetan climbers under the leadership of Samdruk (who had climbed Everest in 1975), having succeeded on Gasherbrum II, reached only the Gasherbrum La (6500 meters) on Hidden Peak. Berbeka, Carlos Carsolio, Ed Viesturs ...
Tashi Lapcha. B. K. Sthapit and I. Bahadur established an all-Nepalese expedition altitude record when they reached the summit of Tashi Lapcha (21,000 feet).
Utah, Storm Mountain Practice Area. On November 26 Paul Burton (22), Carietta Ybarguen (21), and Galen Jorgenson (19) were climbing on Storm Mountain. They had climbed up about 150 feet and had stopped to rest before turning back because of the di...
Staunings Alps, East Greenland. Our expedition of ten men operated in the Roslin Glacier area from July to September. Projects included the determination of valley-glacier depths, mapping by plane table and theodolite, oxygen-isotope analysis of i...
Blockhouse, East Face Route. On June 14 Ron Cotman and I completed an aesthetic, complicated route on the Blockhouse’s east face, in Leavenworth’s Cashmere Crags group, accessed by the Hook Creek drainage in the Icicle Canyon. Our original ascent ...
FALLING ICEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Mount JohnsonAt 1500 on June 8, Jeff Benowitz (30) and partner Chris Turiano (29) started climbing a new route on the East Buttress of Mt. Johnson. Turiano was leading approximately 100 feet up the route when fal...