WET SNOW SLIDE, FALL ON ICE, UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Moraine Lake, 3-3½ CouloirTwo Yugoslavian mountaineers started down the 3-3½ Couloir, a steep 2,000-foot- high ice chute, from the Graham Cooper bivouac hut at noon on 20 August 1979. ...
Southern Pickets, East Twin Needle. McMillan Cirque was revisited in early July, and a very marked change was noted in the glaciers over the past six years; photos show higher ice walls on the bulge of the hanging glaciers, and two glaciers that w...
Mount Moran, South Buttress Right, variation. On July 13, 1969, Juris Krisjansons and Peter Habeler made a significant new variation of this massive buttress by climbing the rock between the Black Fin and the South Buttress Right route. Six leads ...
Salcantay, South Face and East Ridge. Our expedition took two days to get from Mollepata over Pampa Soray to Base Camp at 15,425 feet under the south face of Salcantay on June 2. The next day four of us reconnoitered the whole south and southeast ...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Giraffe, Second Ascent. In February, Lionel and Damien Daudet made the (possible) second ascent of the Giraffe Route (6c+ A3, 500m) on El Gran Trono Blanco.Jean-Marc Clerc, France
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The Dartmouth Mountaineering Club held its usual weekend trips to climbing areas in New England, including Orford, Whitehorse, Cathedral, and Franconia Notch. A new route was climbed on Owl’s Head, and Bartlett Tower...
Bethartoli Himal. An Italian expedition made the first ascent of Bethartoli Himal (20,840 feet), which had been unsuccessfully attempted at least four times. We climbed the previously unattempted north ridge. Traveling light, we approached the mou...
On August 23, Yvon Chouinard, Fred Beckey and I left camp on Deep Lake to climb a route up the center of the northwest face of East Temple, a sheer wall described by Orrin Bonney as "impossible" in his Guide to the Yyoming Mountains. The average a...
Ausangate, Southeast Spur. Our group of 22 climbers and trekkers reached Upis (14,600 feet) from Hacienda Tinki on July 1. There the arriero's helper fell ill to a respiratory illness and died just as we managed to get him back to Tinki. After som...
Avanarsuasua, Exploration. Our exploration of extreme north Greenland continued in July. Our interests were once again broadly based. Dr. Ko deKorte and Peter Baldwin completed their study of the region’s bird populations. Dr. Lawrence Hacquebord ...
Misti and. Other Peaks, pre-Columbian Ascents. In 1979 the Museo de la Universidad Nacional de San Agustín, Arequipa, released the news that Peruvians had on two occasions in 1966 found in very high, unspecified places on the slopes of Nevado Coro...
Hungabee, Southeast Ridge. The southeast ridge of Hungabee (11,457 feet), starting with Kenkchemna Peak, had apparently never been climbed. In July an attempt with Walter Schrauth ended after a storm and bivouac on Wenkchemna. On August 17 Walter ...
Aleta del Tiburón, La Hoja, La Máscara and Other Peaks, Paine Group. Our joint expedition from the Universities of Grenoble and Santiago consisted of nine Frenchmen and seven Chileans. Our achievements were greater than our expectations. Patagonia...
Cirque of the Towers, solo traverse. Squinting into the sun, I stood on the top of War Bonnet gazing across at what I had just traversed, the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Mountains. Above me cumulus clouds benignly drifted by, resisting ...
Mukar Beh, Kulu. John Ashburner, Liam Carver and I arrived in Manali at the head of the Kulu valley on May 26 and left to set up Base Camp in the Solang Nullah on June 1 with twelve coolies and one high-altitude porter, an old and trusted friend S...
In September 2008 Dan Dingle, Bill Enger, and I completed Slab Daddy (V 5.10+ AO) on Squire Creek Wall near Darrington. The 22-pitch route, which took four years to complete, goes free except for a 10' section on pitch 20. There is a good bit of t...
Cerro Marconi and peaks north of Lake Argentino, Patagonia. An expedition of the Centre Andino Buenos Aires led by Carlos Comesaña climbed Cerro Marconi, which lies just to the west of FitzRoy, and several needles of the Tunel valley. Also in Janu...
Annapurna IV. Led by Masahiro Kawakita, the eight-man Kansai University expedition made the sixth ascent by the traditional route of Annapurna IV (24,688 feet) when Deputy Leader Munekazo Takeo and Kazuhiko Furuya reached the summit on April 25 fr...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PITON, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, The ToothOn September 13, 1981, David Erickson (25) fell 150 feet from the East Face of The Tooth. His partner, Steve Bremner (26) said, “When he first fell, the pitons held for a sec...
Approach to the Hills, by C. F. Meade. 8 vo., 265 pages, with numerous illustrations from photographs, two maps and index. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1940. Price $2.75.Twenty-three essays make up this book of experiences by a famous climber...