LATE START, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, DARKNESS, STRANDEDAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount IndefatigableOn September 14, two women (28 and 36), from Canmore spent the night on a cliff ledge after darkness forced them to interrupt their climb of the...
Giri-Giri Boys Kazuaki Amano (leader), Ryo Masumoto, and Takaai Nagato established two new routes in the Ruth Gorge. On April 18-19 they climbed the Optimist (950m, 22 pitches, AK Grade 4, 5.9R M6), on the west face of Peak 7,400'. On April 25-26 ...
Baruntse. I joined the German Alpine Club expedition led by Hermann Tauber, which climbed Baruntse by the southeast ridge. On November 1 South Tiroleans Tauber, Hansjörg Beikirchner, Robert Gasser, German Gerwald Wittmann and Sherpas Nawang Tenzin...
FAILURE TO TEST HOLD–HAND-HOLD CAME OFF, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Petzoldt RidgeOn July 20, Ben Wessler (20) was leading the pitch above the Window on the Petzoldt Ridge of the Grand Teton. He placed a piece of ...
South Patagonia Ice Cap, Traverse Attempt. From December 5, 1998-January 5, 1999, Karl Feaux, Rob Weber, Bart Matthews and Kyle Bohnenstiehl (leader), attempted a partial traverse of the South Patagonia Ice Cap. This remote area, also known as the...
Everest Attempts. The “expedition” organized by Hanns Schell was actually a group of teams. It included the American Snowbird Expedition as well as Steve Boyer and Murray Rice whose efforts are given above. In all there were 5 Austrians, 5 Germans...
SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Chair PeakOn August 6, 1984, Michael Sherman (17) and Nathaniel Burgess (17) were attempting an ascent of Chair Peak by the standard route. About 1300, Sherman slipped o...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Cascades, Chimney RockOn July 6, on the sixth pitch of the East Face of Chimney Rock, Ralph Leach (50) was leading. He was showing signs of fatigue after moving about 20 feet. He had two piec...
Ameghino, south face. On Februray 24, 2009, Fernando Arnaudi and I left Plaza Argentina (ca 4,200m) for Ameghino’s (5,883m) south face and climbed 300m of 50° névé, then a very steep 220m cascade, and then another 500m, up to 80°. This last passag...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, EXHAUSTION Colorado, Eldorado Canyon(On February 1,1986, Clayton Jackson [24] fell while lead climbing “Raggae” [5.8]. The following is his account of the accident.)After failing miserably ...
Ithuriel's Hour, by Joanna Cannan. Doubleday, Doran & Co., New York, 1932. Pp. 306, with colored illustration and key plan. $2.50.This novel of a Himalayan first ascent carried out by an English party will intrigue the generality of mountainee...
Northwest Ridge of Buck Mountain. On July 16, 1957 John Dietschy, Dave Dingman, and Karl Pfiffner ascended this ridge which previously, in 1953, had been descended by the use of three rappels. The difficult gendarme between the west peak and the w...
British Columbia: near Lillooet. On 15 July 1950 Frank Bowser, 18, of Vancouver, B.C., was killed when he fell off a 200-foot cliff while taking pictures of the lake below. Bowser was with his father.Source of information: United Press account.Ana...
Cerro Adela Central, Southeast Face, Winter Ascent. Because of the war in Slovenia, my climbing partner was unable to leave our country to join me. I therefore modified my plans and headed for Cerro Adela instead. I believe I was the only climber ...
In February 2011, Scott Bennett and I started 45m up and left from the toe of Cerro Pollones west pillar, climbing a “scoop” and series of left-facing corners and overlaps. This was a four-pitch variant start to A Fine Piece (5.10 A2, Crouch- D...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Roof RoutesOn April 22, an experienced climber (24) fell from about 20 feet up on “Kloberdanze” (5.11). As he was trying to clip in to his first piece of protection, his foot...
Jugal Himal. The first all-woman Himalayan expedition consisting of three members of the Ladies’ Scottish Climbing Club led by Mrs. Monica Jackson, spent six weeks in April and May 1955 in the Jugal Himal on the Nepalese-Tibetan frontier northeast...
Mount Robson, Southwest Face. The southwest face, the concave face between Emperor Ridge and Wishbone Arête, begins at a huge ledge that cuts across the entire south side of the mountain at 7500 feet. It is probably possible to traverse to this le...
Mount Edziza, 1992. Rocco Osborn, Ian Spooner and I explored and climbed in the Edziza Provincial Park, British Columbia, in July 1992. We flew from near Telegraph Creek to Buckley Lake, which is within the park. We then hiked to the central weste...
Findlay Group, Purcells. From Canal Flats, B.C. on August 7 Sy Ossofsky, Jon Shinno and I drove 17 miles up the Findlay Creek road and then back- packed another 25 miles on an old trail up Findlay, Granite and Morigeau Creeks. On August 9 we set u...