Zanser Kangri. Our joint Japanese-Tibetan expedition had Gonbu as Tibetan commander-in-chief and me as chief leader. It was a long way to Zanser Kangri which lies in northwest Tibet and we covered 3000 kilometers round-trip. We left Lhasa with sev...

Babulal Lamu Tamang and Alexandre Ulcakar from France are the first known party to have attempted Samdo since the peak was brought onto the permitted list in 2003. The peak lies northeast of Manaslu on the Tibetan border, south of the Lajyung La. ...

Washington, Olympics—The Brothers—On May 26, fifty-three persons on an Olympic College Basic Mountaineering Class climb reached the summit of The Brothers. The very warm sun penetrated through a light fog. Someone had climbed the mountain a week b...

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDED ABILITIES—Colorado, Mt. Evans. Brian Driscoll (29) and Jeff Feet (23) were “scrambling” on extremely loose rock below Crest House. Fell, slid some 600 feet down snow/rock couloir. Dead on arrival from massive internal and ce...

Mount Silliman, Sequoia National Park. In June 1981, Guy McClure and I did two new routes on the west ridge of Mount Silliman. From 10,000 feet, a short way below Silliman Lake, the southern face of this ridge rises in a long series of steep grani...

AMS—NO INCIDENTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressKim Jae Suk and Park Jae Il (24) of the Korean Palgong Kyung Ju party ascended the Messner Couloir on May 28. Il became ill with Acute Mountain Sickness over half way up the route, requiring eigh...

Northern Sikkim, Kangchengyao (6,889m), ascent from north. It is reported that a 14-member team from the Black Cat Division of the Indian Army made a rare ascent of this high peak in northern Sikkim. While the south side of this mountain is very f...

OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount SnowdomeJ.R. (28) hitchhiked to the Columbia Icefields on February 20, and hiked to the base of the difficult and hazardo...

One of the main events of autumn was the solo ascent, by Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar, of Annapurna East via the south face to the east ridge. Humar selected the far eastern end of the face because there are not as many falling stones as el...

Ascent of Guillaumet, Normal Route. On February 27, 1997, Tom Douglas, Gabe Schlumberger and I climbed the normal route on Guillamet (in the Fitz Roy massif). We left the Paso Superior at 9 a.m. and hiked through two feet of new snow to the base. ...

Western Colorado, Various Ascents. On August 4, Jesse Harvey, Pat Goodman and I made the first ascent of a yummy 350-foot flake of rotten sandstone, limestone and shale that we dubbed Putterman’s Flake. It sits a couple miles north of (the Cameo) ...

Iowa Mountaineers. The Iowa Mountaineers, as usual, had an active year in 1992. Membership has grown to 5100 members from 38 states. Over 4200 people participated in the many instructional courses, mountaineering camps or foreign expeditions.The c...

Triangle Peak, The Prism, Previously Unreported. On October 13, 1997, Matt Porter and I hiked nine miles up the South Fork of Eagle River to the north face of Triangle Peak (5,450'). Our intended line was 1,000 feet of water ice culminating in a p...

Picos Oriental and Ojeda, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Todd Swain, Thomas (“Tad”) Welch and I visited the northern side of the range in January 1984. Contrary to the experiences reported by several climbing parties in recent years, we found no ob...

Yalaxianbo (6,635m), first ascent. The Yamagata Mountaineering Federation (northern Japan) made the first ascent of Yalaxianbo, near the border with Bhutan, to commemorate its 50th anniversary in 2007. This peak is located at 28°45'N, 91°50'E, 135...

Climbs and Traverses in the Mount Waddington Area, Canadian Coast Range. In the 4½ days from July 26 thru 30, Peter Croft, Greg Foweraker, and I completed the first traverse of the culmination of the Coast Mountains, the Waddington Range. Starting...

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Hallett PeakOn June 9, 1982, Matthew Slater (19) and Jeffrey Cristol (18) were climbing Hallett Chimney (about 225 meters of mixed ice and rock) on Hallett Peak. They were about one lead f...

Colqiie Cruz, Cordillera Vilcanota. An Italian expedition composed of Italo Bazzini, Mario Giacomelli, Livio Lanari and Roberto Manni climbed Colque Cruz, reaching the summit (6104 meters, 20,026 feet) on July 29. They had hoped to climb a direct ...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 24 June John Freitag (25), Mike Petrilak, Steffie Petrilak, and Joan Oosterwyk were descending Cloudveil Dome by the east ridge following a successful ascent by the same route. It was early afternoon and the ...

Gasherbrum IV Tragedy. A Japanese expedition failed to climb Gasherbrum IV (7925 meters, 26,000 feet) by its west face. On July 7 all five members were carrying loads from Camp I to Camp II. At 20,000 feet a huge sérac collapsed above them. Shiget...