Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kanchenjunga Attempt and Tragedy

Kanchenjunga Attempt and Tragedy. The advance party of four members and one support member left Bombay on February 22. At Hille about 200 porters were hired to ferry the expeditions loads. The advance party established Base Camp on March 26 at 550...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Exposure, Inadequate Equipment, Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon

STRANDED, EXPOSURE INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn November 29, Sean Amastasian (19) and Tony Radcliffe (20) were located at the top of a climb called Split-Pants, or Gate Buttress (5.7). The climbers stated when they went up,...


Notes ANAM
The Club de Exploraciones de Mexico

The Club de Exploraciones de Mexico reports that the unfortunate number of accidents on the Mexican volcanoes and mountain crags is not diminishing, but that efforts are being made to indoctrinate Mexican climbers through the many existing clublet...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Half Dome, Northwest Face, Kali-Yuga, 1989

Half Dome, Northwest Face, Kali-Yuga, 1989. In early October 1989, I arrived in Yosemite with no specific plans and met Walt Shipley, who had just finished carrying his gear down the Half Dome slabs after a solo attempt of a new route to the right...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park, Edith Creek Cornice

Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park, Edith Creek Cornice. On 5 September Russ Montgomery (35) was practicing self-arrest with Guide Jim Ullin. Apparently he went off the cornice upside down and backward without checking to see if he had a safe r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna Attempt

Gangapurna Attempt. The Tourism Ministry says that a lone Korean, Lee Suk-Woo, and his sirdar climbed to 7100 meters on January 31 and then gave up when they couldn’t find a route above that point.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, South-Southeast Face

Lone Pine Peak, South-Southeast Face. From the Stone House the south-southeast face of Lone Pine Peak presents the following features: a large couloir starts to the right of the lowest point of the face and ends very high beneath a steep step thro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Lost Horse Buttress and Unnamed Tower, Bitterroot Mountains

Lost Horse Buttress and Unnamed Tower, Bitterroot Mountains. Five separate attempts were made on this route before it was finally completed. Most were foiled by bad weather. Rod Sutherland began this route on the south face in July, putting up eig...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Mt. Audubon

Mt. Audubon, 13,223 ft., was ascended on February 9, 1930, by Erl Ellis and John L. J. Hart, using skis.


Club Activities AAJ
Arizona Mountaineering Club

Arizona Mountaineering Club. The 300+ members of the Arizona Mountaineering Club enjoyed another successful year of climbing-based activities. The AMC meets monthly and, in 1997, featured such nationally known speakers as Kitty Calhoun, Paul Piana...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Himachal Pradesh, P 6036 and P 6150, 1985

P 6036 and P 6150, Miyar Nala, 1985. Scots from Edinburgh University, Peter Smith, leader, Fraser Alexander, Ulric Jessop, Teresa Lee, Alister Matthewson and Jonathan Whittaker, climbed these two peaks alpine-style in early September 1985. They cl...


Club Activities AAJ
Alaska Alpine Club

Alaska Alpine Club. The club continued its weekly luncheon business meetings and monthly slide shows. We have added whitewater canoe and kayak skills into our activities, making it possible to get into some very remote spots. We hope to see a numb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Argentina, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Linea di Eleganza, Second Ascent and First Free Ascent

Fitz Roy, Linea di Eleganza, second ascent and first free ascent. In a single push from February 22 to 24, 2006, Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue, and Erik Roed made the first free and first alpine-style ascent (second overall) of Linea di Eleganza ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Cornice Collapse, Unroped, Inattention, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Saddle Mountain

CORNICE COLLAPSE, UNROPED, INATTENTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Saddle MountainOn January 29, 1991, about 1500, Jacques and France had just completed a ski ascent of Saddle Mountain, with their dog accompanying them. They were walking along the co...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia

A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia, by William Lowell Putnam. New York: American Alpine Club. 1971. 323 pages, 35 photos. $7.00 The new revision of this guide has been updated with a see-through plastic-cover similar to m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung Attempt  

Langtang Lirung Attempt. French led by Serge Bazin attempted to climb Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet) by its southeast ridge but got no higher than 6100 meters on October 29.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Nandapal

Nandapal. This difficult virgin 20,690-foot peak, east of Tirsuli, was climbed by an Indo-Tibetan Border Police team on June 8 despite unfavorable weather. Deputy Leader Ramesh Chandra was one of the ten who reached the summit.Kamal K. Guha, Himal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cerro Domingo Faustino Sarmiento (Ansilta 7)

Cerro Domingo Faustino Sarmiento (Ansilta 7). Though this peak was first climbed in 1958 by the northwest ridge, it has rarely been visited. It is second in height in the Ansilta group, but the most difficult. Humberto Campodónico made the first a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Oregon, Mount Jefferson

STRANDEDOregon, Mount JeffersonOn September 17, 1993, William Reeves (47), an experienced hiker, was on a four-day trip around the summit of the 10,497-foot peak when he became stranded away from his base camp during a snowstorm.Jefferson County s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Persia, The Italian Expedition

The Italian Expedition composed of Ardito Desio, conte Leonardo Bonzi, Gaetano Polvara, cav. Vittorio Ponti, and Paolo Righini which set out by airplane on July 26th, 1933. to explore the mountains west of Isfahan has returned after having accompl...