HENRY CECIL JOHN HUNT 1910-1999Lord Hunt, who led the successful British expedition that made the first ascent of Everest, and who was an honorary member of The American Alpine Club, died on November 8, 1998. He was 89.Some men do things right. Jo...
CANFIELD BEATTIE 1900–1987Dr. Canfield Beattie died on August 18, 1987 in Portland, Oregon at the age of 86. He was a long-time member of both the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada, having joined the AAC in 1935 and the ACC in 193...
Uli Byapjun; Uli Biaho Great Spire, first ascent; Base Camp Slabs, Piranski zaliv; Trango Tower, Eternal Flame, one-day ascent. Many climbers say that late summer weather in Karakoram is more suitable for rock climbing, so our group chose that tim...
Cuerno Principal, Variant to Line of First Ascent. Alexandra Schultheis, Michael Cross, and I traveled to Chilean Patagonia for a week-long stay in Towers of Paine National Park. During our visit we attempted a new rock route on the the highest of...
Fatal Mountaineer: The High-Altitude Life and Death of Willi Unsoeld, American Himalayan Legend. Robert Roper. New York: St. Martins Press, 2002.306 pages. Hardcover. $25.95.I will begin this review with a disclaimer. As far as I can remember, I n...
Lama Lamani North (5,650m), west face; Peak 5,500m; Jopuno (5,936m), west ridge, attempt. Inspired by the writing of British mountaineer Roger Payne (AAJ 2008), Geoff Cohen, Bob Hamilton, Dick Isherwood, Steve Kennedy, Dave Ritchie (all UK), and I...
Lower Cathedral Rock, The New North Face, Previously Unreported. The north face of Lower Cathedral Rock has arguably the shortest approach of any wall in the Valley. It is blissfully cool in the summer and overhangs ominously over South Side Drive...
Hanuman Tibba or Bruce’s Solang Weisshorn. In his book Kulu and Lahoul Brigadier General C. G. Bruce describes the first ascent of the mountain he named “Solang Weisshorn” (19,450 feet) on the Kulu-Bara Bangahal divide, a few miles northwest of Ma...
Bipetig Valley Nature Preserve, background information. Bipeng Valley has at least 40 (maybe over 60) unclimbed 5,000+ meter peaks. In 2003 a paved access road was completed into the valley. This makes accessing this cluster of mountains easy and ...
Mount Hunter, Two Japanese Expeditions. Two different groups from Japan were on the Kennedy-Lowe route on the north face of Mount Hunter. Yutake Shinohara and Masamitsu Urayama started up the face on May 1. On May 4 they found themselves blocked b...
Chopicalqui and Alpamayo. From May 24 to July 4 Oswald Duba, Fredy Graf, Gerhard Rathmayr, Marcel Rüdi and I were in the Cordillera Blanca. We climbed Chopicalqui by the southwest ridge from Camp II in the Chopicalqui-Huascarán col. We climbed Alp...
BarbarossaWhen getting up is not nearly enough: the first ascent of Yamandaka, in the Indian Karakoram.Mark RicheyBraced precariously at the edge of the waterfall, Mark Wilford hesitated for a terrifying moment to assess the situation. He fought t...
Mount Patterson, East Buttress. From Bow Summit, Peyto Lake and Mount Patterson are a colorful view. John Rupley and I looked at the peak to find a suitable and safe route through the confusion of cliffs, glaciers, and summit bands of questionable...
Mt. Logan: Third Ascent.* On 17 May 1950 Gordon Herried, Mark Christensen, Harvey Turner and I headed for Chitina with 850 lbs. of food and equipment. We had been planning an ascent of Mt. Logan all the previous winter and took food to last at lea...
FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE (TWICE), POOR POSITION, LATE START, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT-STOVEAlberta, Lake Louise, Wapta Ice Field, Peyto Glacier ApproachOn March 19, Ken Fischer (32), myself—Jonathan Fischer (29), and my wife Carey (31) began what we th...
Southeast Section. Throughout 2008 the AAC Sections Committee focused on the objective of bringing our Club closer to grass-roots membership, developing a stronger sense of AAC community within the sections, and encouraging more locally initiated ...
Truth be told, Kelly Cordes didn’t really want to work with me. My very first task as the new AAJ editor in February 2002 was to talk Kelly into staying on in his part-time position gathering reports from new routes in North and South America. The...
The Brenta DolomitesPaul T. Christie“IF you enjoy rock climbing, you must do the Guglia di Brenta,” said our congenial Austrian acquaintance, sipping his coffee and looking up at the sleet-covered aiguilles of Chamonix.We had just had a punishing,...
lndrasan, Punjab. The Kyoto University Punjab Himalaya Expedition consisted of Professor of Biochemistry Konoshin Onodera, leader, Toshiaki Sakai, deputy leader, and the students Yoshitsugi Omori, Kojiro Tomita, Jiro Tanaka, Yasumasa Miyaki and To...
Unexpected: Thirty Years Of Patagonia Catalog Photography. Jane Sievert and Jennifer Ridgeway, eds. Patagonia Books, 2010. 213 pages. Hardcover. $49.00.The photographs collected here are beautiful and inspiring.We all know in our cynical little he...