Colorado, Conundrum Creek Valley. On September 8, Jonathan Hough, David Church, Jon Swanson, Robert Farley, and Susan Greene (19) had attempted Castle Peak (14,259 ft.). They were turned back at 13,800 by severe winds and approaching thunderstorms...
Trekant Basin, Staunings Alps, Northeast Greenland. Bruno Friedrich, Christoph Schwarz, Toni Mayer and I as leader were in the basin of the Trekant Glacier, east of Alpefjord in the Staunings Alps, from July 28 to August 18. Base Camp was on the t...
Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route. Jeff Hansell and I made this new route (IV 5.9) on September 10,2001. Little Big Chief Mountain is located in the seldom-visited Summit Chief Valley in the North Central Cascades. The Summit Chief Valley is...
PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mt. McKinley, West ButtressWhile the incident with Andrews was unfolding at 13,500 feet, there was another incident developing at high camp—17,200 feet. The Black Ice Expedition, consisting of Sacha Friedlin (23) and Marie C...
Lhotse, Winter Attempt. A Swiss expedition to Lhotse establised Base Camp on November 16 at 17,400 feet at the foot of Island Peak. The expedition, led by Joseph Fauchère, had eight members and was attempting the southeast face. They abandoned the...
Finger of Fate, South Face. In mid-October 1966, Fred Dunham, Dave Mahre, Tom Hargis and I climbed the 700-foot south face of this prominent spire on the ridge connecting Chimney Rock’s north and main peaks. We reached the glacial cirque below the...
Baruntse. A Japanese expedition from Utsunomiya University led by Tetsuyo Saito successfully climbed the south ridge of Baruntse, the first-ascent route. The summit (7220 meters, 23,688 feet) was reached on September 26 by Noriaki Ujiie, Motoi Nag...
Cerro Presidente, Attempt and Tragedy. On September 25 at 8:30 a.m., Yossi Brain and a young Canadian woman, Dana Witzel, were killed in a slab avalanche on Cerro Presidente (5700m) in the Apolobamba range of the Andes. Four of us, Yossi, Dana, Er...
Goode Mountain, Megalodon (east) Ridge. After speaking with alpinists who had eyed or attempted Goode’s east ridge, and after finding recent bail slings on an attempt myself, I couldn’t get the climb out of my mind. I described the monster to Sol ...
Sharphu. This 23,622-foot peak, which lies just across the Tamur river, west of Kangchenjunga and northwest of the town of Kambachen, was climbed by the expedition led by Kenji Ishiwara, who could accompany the expedition only as far as Daran Baza...
Langshisha Ri. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Hiroshi Inoue, made the first ascent of Langshisha Ri (6300 meters, 20,670 feet). They had two high camps. They climbed the south face, finding difficult climbing that required fixing 4500 feet ...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The club continues it usual activities of climbing and hiking. Last spring we held our annual snow and ice schools and we climaxed the snow season by building a huge snow sculpture at Mountaineer’s Weekend near Lara...
Poles Apart: Parallel Visions of the Arctic and Antarctic. Galen Rowell. Mountain Light Press, Berkeley, California, 1995. 184 pages, profusely illustrated in color. $39.95.We expect the best from Galen Rowell and this is no exception. Some consid...
Attempt on Kohe Langar. A French group led by Denis Van De Velde in which D. Charron took part was interested in peaks in the Shar Shkhawr (formerly Langar) valley. The undersigned was able to give them details of the successful German expedition ...
East Huey Spire, Don't Panic It’s Organic. Scott Hollander and I climbed a new route on East Huey this summer. Our trip was fortunate to have great weather, but it still rained most afternoons. After our two and a half days of travel from the stat...
Whymper in Canada. It is not often remembered that the conqueror of the Matterhorn made a lecture tour in the United States in the autumn of 1900. On arrival in New York he learned from Cornelius Hanbury of the death of the latter’s sister, Charlo...
Karavshin Region, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British team of Paul Pritchard, Dave Green, Johnny Dawes and Noel Craine visited the Ak-Su valley in September, making some notable ascents. They began by repeating the Donahue/Harvey rou...
Zongo Pass Area Ski Descents; Cunatincuta (Chekhapa) and Ayllayco. In early July, Don Pattison and Jimmy Katz attempted to nordic ski 19,996-foot Huayna Potosí, but encountered exceptionally windy and sun-crusted conditions and did not reach the s...
FALL ON ROCK–HANDHOLD PULLED OUT, APPARENTLY FAILED TO TEST HOLD, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew Mexico, Sandia Mountain Wilderness, Muralla GrandeOn May 8, two resident physicians set out to climb Warpy Moople (5.9- .10, III), an eight pitch...
Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy. The Gakuyukai expedition was led by Masatoshi Yokota and composed of Satoshi Aoki, Nobuhiro Matsumiya, Masaaki Kitagawa and Katsuhiko Hojo. After establishing Base Camp on Lago Torre, they hoped in three months, January t...