BularungSar, HisparMustagh. Bularung Sar (7200 meters, 23,622 feet) lies between Disteghil Sar and Trivor. Although both of those summits had been reached, the first ascent of the impressive peak rising between them waited until 1990. Unfortunatel...
Gurkarpo Ri, another unsuccessful Korean attempt on this unclimbed peak. Koreans led by Kim Myung-Sin were back for another attempt on the unclimbed 6,891m Gurkarpo Ri, which is situated on the Tibetan border northwest of Lenpo Gang. It appears to...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. It is reported that in February 1949 Wallace and Bruce Adams climbed El Guardian by a new route on the S.W. ridge.
Freshfield Glacier. Observations made on July 5th, 1937, complete a fifteen-year period since the first measurements were undertaken (1922). Photographs from Camp Station and Station C afford further evidence of the subsidence of the tongue throug...
Cho Oyu, Illegal Crossing into Tibet. A member of an expedition on the Tibetan side of Cho Oyu reports on another illegal attempt made from Nepal. Two Serbians crossed the Nangpa La about October 20 and camped below the west ridge of Cho Oyu. The ...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, Various Ascents. Our Venezuelan group was composed of Yuraima Bekker, Eduardo Márquez, Ramón and Ricardo Jáuregui, Ramiro Silva and I, leader. We first traveled to the eastern side of this range and camped under the Cerros ...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. The principal 2001 activities of the Central Rockies Section are highlighted as follows:January: The Section donated $300 to the Ice Climbers Festival at Ouray, CO. Members provided support services as belayers. This ...
Nooksack Tower: First Ascent. Nooksack Tower (8500 ft.) is a very prominent upthrust on the E. ridge of Mt. Shuksan, somewhat resembling in position the Aig. Noire de Péteret on Mont Blanc. The climb has repulsed attempts since 1939.On 5 July 1946...
Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary. The 2000 climbing season at Denali National Park and Preserve was one of the most tragic and one of the most memorable seasons in recent history. The terrible plane crash that happened on June 19 stunned...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, OFF ROUTEColorado, Mt. Sneffels, North FaceArt Porter and Brent Dubach, both experienced climbers with several years of technicalclimbing experience, decided to attempt the north face via the direct route on August 31, ...
Mount Whitney, Direct East Face, Winter Ascent. In February Mike Graber, Ron Kauk, and I skied into the cirque under Mount Whitney to attempt the long Grade V route to the left of the normal east face. After setting up camp we fixed a pitch up to ...
Wyoming, Devil’s Tower. On 23 July James A. Dunn, Robert C. Smiley, and Stephanie Sisca had signed out for an ascent of the Durrance Route. Dunn was leading with Smiley belaying on the first lead, the leaning column. Dunn had advanced to a point 8...
Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel. John Frieh and I headed out to Idaho’s best-kept secret, the Sawtooth Range, in mid-August with the intent of spending four days climbing some of the excellent established routes in the area. We forwent the usual ...
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake Crag, Ash WednesdayOn October 10, T. (24) and his partner D., were climbing at the Back of the Lake crag area near Lake Louise. T. was leading the 10.b route Ash Wednesday whe...
On March 13, Ben Trocki and I climbed a new line on the east face of Awful Peak (the 8,170' peak that borders the west side of the unnamed glacier below the north face of Awesome Peak). We never came up with a name, so I’ve started calling it 13 A...
Ama Dablam, North Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Casimiro Ferrari, leader, Bruno Lambardini, Giuliano Maresi, Mario Panzeri, Daniele Valsecchi, Dr. Sandro Giati and me. Having left Italy on March 24, we were at Base Camp at 5100 meters thre...
HANDHOLD CAME OFF–FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry SpireOn July 28, Laura Plaut (35) was treated and evacuated from near the summit of 10,546-foot Symmetry Spire after she fell about 100 feet, shattering her left elbow and ...
Southern Ice Cap, Integral Crossing. From November 1, 1998, to January 30, 1999, four Chileans (Pablo Besser, Rodrigo Fica, Mauricio Rojas, Jose Montt) made the first integral crossing of the Southern Ice Cap. Further information is lacking.Hernan...
Everest Attempt. The Snowbird Everest expedition began with a casual visit to Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism and then a letter to Austrian Hanns Schell, Everest’s permit-holder for the post-monsoon season. Karen Fellerhoff gained from Schell the admi...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount StuartOn August 12, 1984, Allen Kearny (26) was descending Ulrich’s Couloir with three friends when one of them dislodged a large, loose rock which fell on Kearney, causing him to fall 18-20 meters. He and his friends...