Accident Reports ANAM
Lightning, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, South Howser Tower

LIGHTNINGBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, South Howser TowerOn August 3, 1987, two climbers (30) left the Bugaboo Hut and climbed in good weather to the base of Great White Headwall on the Chouinard-Beckey route on the west face of the South H...


Club Activities AAJ
The Colorado Mountain Club

The Colorado Mountain Club. The Club, with over 9,000 members, has a primary clubhouse in Golden, Colorado. It has eighteen associated groups in other parts of the state, as well as a "Friends of Colorado" group that accepts members from anywhere ...


Notes AAJ
Canada, Cariboo Range

Cariboo Range. This range is now officially the McLennan Range (C.A.J., XXI, 94). The first crossing was made in 1947 by R. T. Zillmer and his son, from Tête Creek to Canoe River, thence to the N. Thompson and out to Gosnell (C.A.J., XXI, 21). A g...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. The principal club activity was the August outing at Island Lake in the Wind Rivers of Wyoming, with 49 members participating. For the first time in several years the Club completely outfitted the camp, and the arrange...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dorje Lhakpa

Dorje Lhakpa. Our joint expedition was composed of Germans Klaus Stark, leader, Mathias Rau, Helmut Müller, Dr. Bernd Meyer and me and Nepalese Ang Pasang and Pemba Tarke. We used a new approach from the south through the Balephi Khola. Three Japa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, East Face

Manaslu, East Face. Fifteen members of a South Korean expedition were killed when on April 10 avalanches overwhelmed their Camp III at 21,300 feet. The dead were four Koreans including the leader, Kim Ho Sup, one Japanese and ten Sherpas. There su...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Auzangate Massif, Mapping and New Approach Route

Auzangate Massif, mapping and new approach route. In early May, Brad Johnson and I, accompanied by three American clients and supported by five Peruvians, spent 10 days in the Cordillera Vilcanota collecting field data for an upcoming map of the r...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. Activities for the year started with a sociable spring party that included slides and refreshments at a private home. Next came a Section climbing/picnic weekend. Fall saw a meeting featuring Dave Jay’s fine slides and nar...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. Our expedition was composed of Jean-Bemard and Michel Loste, Jean-Louis Roquefeuil and me as leader. We climbed the normal route on Satapanth. We established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4900, 5350 and 6000 meters on July 7,11 and 13...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Yukshin Gardan Sar, Second Ascent

Yukshin Gardan Sar, Second Ascent. Our joint Japanese-Pakistani expedition was composed of Japanese Kenshiro Otaki, leader, Akio Hayakawa, Fumihide Saito, Tetsuei Hanzawa, Dr. Ichiro Shirouzu and me and Pakistanis Major Sher Khan, deputy leader, R...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Morocco, Atlas Mountains, Taghia Gorge, Les Rivieres Pourpres, and Sul Filo della Notte

Atlas Mountains, Taghia Gorge, Les Rivieres Pourpres and Sul Filo della Notte. Visiting the remote Taghia Gorge in Morocco this October, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia, and Michele Paissan established the stellar 12-pitch Sul Filo della Notte (...

| Keywords rivières pourpres
| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal

Garhwal. During June and July, 1954, Gurdial Singh and Lav Kumar climbed Lama Surjang (16,860 feet) (near Niti), Point 17,550 feet, and Silakang (both on Indian – Tibetan frontier), and failed on Rata Pahar (17,220 feet) (west of Gamsali).


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba

Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Due to poor weather on our arrival in this range, our original objective, the unclimbed north ridge of Pumasillo, was changed to a climb of the standard, west route. We reached the summit on July 19. Three camps w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Torre Central del Paine, East Face

Torre Central del Paine, East Face. A full article appears earlier in this Journal about the remarkable new route climbed by Britons on the east face of the Torre Central del Paine between the 1991 German and the 1974 South African routes.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, P 7167, Kunlun Mountains

P 7167, Kunlun Mountains. Our expedition traveled from Urumqi via Kashgar to the western end of the Kunlun Mountains. Base Camp was some 60 kilometers east of Tansuihai at 5270 meters on the Litang River. This was established on July 20. From ther...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Province of Salta

Province of Salta. P. Soana, H. Azuremendi, and J. Miranda climbed the 19,948-foot volcano, Socompa, February 24, 1956. M. Fernandez and P. Balderrama climbed 19,882-foot Chañi.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, Proboscis, Southeast Face, "Yukon Tears" Logan Mountains

Proboscis, Southeast Face, “Yukon Tears” Logan Mountains. In a three-day blitz in 1963, Layton Kor, Royal Robbins, Jim McCarthy and Dick McCracken climbed a route on the southeast face of Proboscis and issued in a new level by applying big-wall te...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Vasuki Peak

Vasuki Peak. Vasuki Peak (22,285 feet) is above the Vasuki Glacier, which feeds the Chaturangi Glacier. It was climbed on October 2 by Tej Singh, Ang Puri and Nima Futar of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. The expedition was led by L.P. Semwel.Kama...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn August 21, 2010, Donald Budlong fell from the slippery crux on the Bastille Crack (5.7+) and pulled two pieces, the highest of which was placed in the large flake to the rig...


Book Reviews AAJ
Some Mountain Views

Some Mountain Views, by Dudley Leavitt Pickman. 12 mo., 94 pages, with thirty-four illustrations from photographs. Boston. G. C. Manthorne & Co., 1933. Price $2.00.The author of this slender book of world wanderings in Alpine regions figures i...