Cirque of the Towers, Warrior I, Northwest Face. In late August Brian Edmiston and I, both from Carbondale, Colorado, freed the 60-foot A3 hook traverse on the stunning 1,000-foot Northwest Face route on Warrior I at IV 5.11R. No bolts or pins wer...
Shangtang Group, Zanskar Range. A ten-man expedition of the Council of Himalayan Exploration and Research, Calcutta, operated in the Kuti valley. Pradeep Dasgupta was the leader. Nitai Roy, Dilip Bhattacharjee and two Sherpas on September 25 climb...
Sloan Peak, Fire on the Mountain. Rad Roberts and I established a new route on the southwest face of Sloan Peak that, compared to new routes established in the ’Rado or California, would be a grade IV. But going by the AAC’s use of the IV definiti...
Cordón de la Jaula. Members of the Club Andinista Mendoza, Roberto Supkay, Marcelo Quiroga and Miguel Angel Alfonso made two first ascents in the Cordón de la Jaula: San Esteban (17,717 feet) and Pico Rosa (17,553 feet).
Baudha. An expedition from Keio University of seven members was led by Yasuhiko Iso. After establishing Base Camp at 12,500 feet in the Churen Khola, they set up high camps, Camp III being at 20,200 feet. During the first summit attempt on April 2...
FALLING ICEWashington, Mount BakerMaurice Vinet (33), Thomas Baker (24), and Clayton Straseske (32) were struck by an icefall and snow slide on Mount Baker on July 16, 1981.Baker, an employee of Liberty Bell Alpine Tours, had been leading the thre...
Ganesh IV. A South Korean expedition led by Joo Si-Jeong climbed Ganesh IV (7102 meters, 23,300 feet) via the south face, establishing three high camps. Korean Lee Sung-Ryul and Sherpas Dorje and Ajiwa reached the summit on October 5. They complet...
Days of Fresh Air, by the Rt. Hon. L. S. Amery, M.P. 8 vo.;320 pages, with 53 illustrations and index. London: Jarrolds, Ltd., 1939. Price 16s.The coincidence of having gone to the Boer War and also to have climbed one or many high peaks connects ...
Spantik, Ascents. Frenchman Daniel Petraud climbed Spantik (7027m) twice, the first time on August 15 with three other climbers. He then went on to scale the peak another time, following the ridge all the way from base camp to top and back on Augu...
Peaks above Cline Valley. Joseph C. LaBelle, Jr., Earl J. McWhorter, Thomas R. Stengle, Guy P. Perry, my husband Howard D. Stidham and I climbed over Sunset Pass and down the Cline Valley. After crossing Huntington and Cataract Creeks, we reached ...
Mount Gilbert, Northeast Couloir. On September 3, Al Fowler, Ron Cale and I climbed the prominent ice chute on the northeast face of Mount Gilbert. The roped portion began at the first obvious crevasse (a very low snow year) and continued for six ...
On January 15, 1983, Bruce Spiegelberg (22) fell eight meters while rappelling on Mt. Bonnell. “I was looking up, and it happened just like that,” Spiegelberg said from his bed in Brackenridge Hospital. “It was probably a piece of glass, because t...
Mitre Peak. My wife Marie Jeanne Ghirardini, liaison officer Noveed Rahman and I started on our approach march on April 28 and got to Base Camp on May 26 after two weeks of acclimatization at Hotto and Rdokas. I left Base Camp on May 30 to bivouac...
Huascarán. The Argentine Ernesto José Colombero and the Peruvian Rigoberto Aramburú climbed the north peak of Huascarán on July 15. They found the route to the Garganta rather more crevassed than usual and were forced north of the usual route.
Peaks near Gunnsbjørns Fjeld, Watkins Mountains. Our expedition members were Greg Englefield, Lewis Jones, Nick Hulton and I as leader. It was intended as a training expedition for a long journey down the east coast in either 1989 or 1990. In June...
Oregon, Mt. Hood, The Chute. On 31 July after making a successful ascent of the usual South side route under ideal weather and climbing conditions, Ken Early (34) slipped while cramponning down a steep hard snow slope unroped. He slid and tumbled ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON SNOW ON DESCENT California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchAt least ten or twelve people slipped on snow descending Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta. Most appear to have been inexperienced. For example, one woman was carrying her ice...
Rakaposhi, North Ridge. A Japanese Waseda University expedition of seven was led by Eiho Ohtani. They climbed the north ride, which had been unsuccessfully attempted in 1971 by Dr. Herrligkoffer’s German expedition. Base Camp was established at 12...
Savoia Kangri Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Jan Tichý, Jirí Ulrych, my brother Zdenek Lukeš and me. All but my brother are Czechs in exile. We set up Base Camp on June 6 at the junction of the Godwin Austen and Savoia Glaciers at 16,400 ...
Second American Karakoram Expedition. In continuance of the excellent work of last year’s American Alpine Club Expedition to K2, a second party will leave for Kashmir, sailing from New York on March 17th. The members of the party are : Chappell Cr...