Huacratanca Traverse, Cordillera Urubamba. David Nicholson and I traversed the two peaks of Huacratanca from August 3 to 9. We went up the southwest glacier and up the west ridge. The northwest summit has been given as about 5200 meters and the ea...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 7 July Edwin W. Speth (26) and Tomm Peterson were climbing the second pitch on the Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire. Speth was leading. He had gone slightly off route and was about 75 feet above the belay posit...
Gasherbrum II. Our expedition had two climbers, Tiziano Zünd and me, and was accompanied by three friends, Lorenza Cattaneo, Angelo Zanetti, all Swiss, and Frenchman Claude Belli. After a 14-day approach from Skardu, we set up Base Camp on July 3 ...
Cordillera Raura, Various New Routes. Our team was composed of Germans Dieter Ruelker, Joerg Stingl, Axel Jahn, Jan Lettke, and me as leader. After three weeks of classic ice climbs in the Cordillera Blanca (the Simpson Spur on Ranrapalca, the Wes...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CoryOn July 28, 1986, two climbers of intermediate experience (early 30s) had completed the steepest part of an eight-pitch climb called Clockwork Orange and were ascending modera...
Annapurna Attempt and Tragedy. A nine-member South Korean expedition led by An Chang-Yeul attempted Annapurna’s face by the Dutch Rib. They set up Camps I, II and III at 16,050, 17,725 and 20,350 feet on September 1, 5 and 9 respectively. On Septe...
Keeler Needle, East Face, The Crimson Wall. During the first week of August, Mike Carville, Kevin Brown and I added a new long, free route to Keeler Needle. Possibly the hardest free wall above 10,000 feet in California, the route strikes straight...
Annapurna Attempt. A five-man Japanese team was led by Jun Yasumura. They wanted to climb the north face via the Dutch rib. On October 3 Yuichi Tokuma and three others reached a high point of only 6000 meters. Continuous snowfall made conditions i...
Hidden Peak from Southwest and Gasherbrum II Attempt. Our group was made up of Javier Escartín, leader, Victor Arnal, Ignacio Cinto, Lorenzo Ortas, Antonio Ubieto and me. We set up Base Camp on July 23 at 17,050 feet on the Abruzzi Glacier. We hea...
Gephang Goh, Attempt. A British expedition led by Ian Ford attempted Gephang Goh (5870m) in the Lahaul area in July-August, reaching 5500 meters. Progress was too slow due to difficult/dangerous crevasses.Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himal...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. Two Indian expeditions are said to have successfully climbed Kamet and Abi Gamin. The leaders were Flight Lieutenant A. Choudhary and Dr. D.T. Kulkarni. Details are lacking.
The Mole, Cashmere Crags. Bob Lewis and I climbed a new route on the Mole, the northeast face, during this past summer. The route begins on the north side of the great chockstone and involves a long class-6 crack-series to the first break in this ...
Central Paine Tower, Winter Attempt. Spaniards José Luis Gallego and Raúl García were in the Paine Towers from May 1 to June 6. They attempted to climb the east face of the Torre Central despite low temperatures and high winds. They climbed 1100 m...
Baruntse. Our expedition was a commercial one. The members had a wide variety of experience in the mountains. The climbing team of nine was accompanied to Base Camp by ten trekkers. We flew to Lukla on April 19 and headed up the Hinku valley. Afte...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PANIC, INEXPERIENCE Mississippi, Tishomingo State ParkOn March 26, 1988, around 1600, Robert L. Breland (c. 20) sprained his left ankle as the result of a ten meter unroped fall on rock at Tishomingo State Park, Mis...
Peaks in Cordillera Vilcanota. The second group of the Munich Andean Trip had as members Angelika Forster, Sigfried Völkl, George Ashton, Reinhard Vogl and me. We made the following ascents: Campa I (17,995 feet) by all on August 23; P 5475 (17,96...
Yunnan Province, Various Ascents. In April, I traveled to northwest Yunnan province and made my way to the town of Dechin by public bus. From April 25-27, I recced the approach to Baima Shan, an unclimbed peak of around 5500 meters on the west sid...
The Ascent of Manaslu in Photographs. The Japanese expeditions of 1952 to 1956, by Takayoshi Yoda. Tokio: The Maiinichi Newspapers. 186 photographs, 9 in color. Price Yen 1,000. (Charles E. Tuttle, Rutland, Yt. $5.00.)Seldom has a mountaineering p...
Montana, Glacier National Park—On June 19, 1954, Miss Claudia Keil (17) and two companions were returning from an ascent of Mt. Altyn when an accident occurred. They were approximately one-quarter of the way down when Miss Keil stepped out on a sn...
Lake Powell Area, Tower Butte, West Face. Davy Insley and Jason Keith first ascended this remote butte. Approach by boat from Wahweap Marina near Glen Canyon Dam on Lake Powell. Proceed uplake to a campsite a short ways up Labyrinth Canyon. Hike s...