Fuller Buttes Area, East Face of Jackass Rocks. This face has many fine cracks visible from the road, but closer inspection shows the cracks tend to start 15 to 20 feet above the ground. In May Mark Blanchard, Conrad Van Bruggen, Fremont Bainbridg...
Gasherbrum II. It was reported that seven teams attempted Gasherbrum II this year, all by the Austrian Route. Three were successful. A group of non-Tibetans attached to the permits of the Samdruk-led expedition (see above), including Kryzysztof Wi...
Kanjiroba Himal. A British all-woman expedition under the leadership of Countess Dorothea Gravina climbed the two highest peaks in the Kanjiroba Himal. The higher (22,000 feet) was provisionally named Pinnacle Peak after the club to which all six ...
Peshastin Pinnacles, Butterbrickle Route on Martian Tower. The south chimney was climbed in April by J. Brottem and me. The route begins at the south notch, climbs across the slab a few feet, and then up to a belay with bolts in place. Climb into ...
Ama Dablam, North Ridge. Paddy Freaney, Peter McInally, Graham Elder, Rob Hall, Bob Murie and I walked to our 17,000-foot Base Camp, covering 180 miles in 24 days, with a side trip to the Everest Base Camp for acclimatization. Starting on the nort...
Langtang Lirung, Ascent and Tragedy. The Trieste expedition was composed of Bruno Toscan, leader, Bruno Crepaz, Mauro Contento, Mauro Petronio, Giuliano Ravagnan, Adriano Tavernaro and Dr. Luisa Mestroni. Unfortunately my husband and I found at th...
AlpsAnniversaries. Conditions abroad have naturally precluded any celebrations, but mountaineers throughout the world should recall that 1940 was the bicentenary of the birth of the Genevese scientist de Saussure, who ascended Mont Blanc in 1787. ...
Sajama. On June 1 Dr. Cleve Armstrong, Robin McIntosh, Karen Ann Young, Richard Markham and I reached the summit of Sajama (6542 meters, 21,463 feet) via the west rib. After making extensive research, we believe that ours was the first American as...
Monte Sarmiento, Tierra del Fuego. A group of four Italians led by Giuseppe Agnolotti attempted to climb the west peak of Sarmiento in December, 1969 and January, 1970. They failed because of bad weather.
Washington, Spokane, Tower Mountain. On 22 May Frank Tavares (42) and his son Russell (Rusty), age 19, began a climb of the west face of Big Rock at approximately 6:00 p.m. PST. Rusty led to a point about 80 feet above the base of the route, ancho...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome), North Face. Um Gae-Sung and two other Koreans established three camps on the north face of Tarke Kang. Um and two Sherpas, Pasang Norbu and Lhakpa Tshering, went to the summit on October 27.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan C...
Mount Stewart, North Face. A long approach on the High Sierra Trail and up Lone Pine Creek ended at the base of the previously unclimbed north face of Mount Stewart. On the following day, August 19, Mike Graber, Jack Roberts and I started out on t...
P 6230, Kishtwar Himal. Bob Reid and I made the first ascent of P 6230, previously known to some as “Kishtwar Weisshorn.” We climbed the southwest face of this pyramidal mountain. We approached from the Dharlang Nala with six excellent porters fro...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Banff Area, Sunshine SlabsSunshine Slabs is a short practice cliff just west of Banff. One summer day in 1991, a climber (30) was leading on steep, loose corners to t...
Paldor and Other Peaks, Ganesh Himal, 1986. Gareth Yardley, David O’Dowd and I made these climbs in the post-monsoon period of 1986, members of the British Mountaineering Council. After acclimatizing on a number of smaller peaks, including P 4900 ...
Chaudhara. Indians led by Professor A.R. Chandekar attempted Rajrambha and on June 2 made the first ascent of Chaudhara (21,364 feet), northwest of Panchchuli. After ascending the Ralam River, they made Base Camp on the Shiva Glacier at 13,800 fee...
FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Rig and Little Cottonwood CanyonsThe three “official” accident reports from Special Operations Director Thad Moore— Salt Lake City Sheriff's Office—parallel the other reports I have from climbers and guide...
IMPROPER FOOTWEAR—Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett’s Peak. Elizabeth Wilson (23) and Gary Neptune had completed a technical climb of Hallett Peak (Jackson-Johnson route) and had successfully descended back to the base of the route f...
Climate Related Landscapes in World Mountains Criteria and Map. Will F. Thompson. “Annals of Geomorphology,” Gebrüder Bornraeger, Berlin/ Stuttgart, 1990. 92 pages, 61 photographs, 1 map, 1 table. Price $50.00 (approximate dollar-conversion value)...
Augusta and Logan Twin PackDon Serl, Alpine Club of CanadaWHERE I COME FROM, you’ve climbed a mountain when you can spit off the far side. Also, where I come from, Mount Logan is the biggest mountain there is, with a south face that is absolutely ...