Gurla Mandhata (Naimona’nyi). Our expedition consisted of Hansruedi Staub, Paul Tschanz, Diego Wellig and me as leader. After long negotiations, the Chinese government allowed us to travel to China with our own vehicles so long as we should leave ...
Yoshitaka Kameoka, Kohei Kotani, Daisuke Nakatsuka, Seiya Nakatsukasa, Hiroki Yamamoto, and I as leader, all from the student section of the Japanese Alpine Club, hoped to climb the virgin peaks of Samdo and Panpoche I (Pang Phunch I or Kutang Him...
Washington, Snoqualmie Pass—The Tooth—On Sunday, June 16, with fine weather, a group of four climbers made a successful ascent of the east face of The Tooth. They were descending from the east notch on easy third-class scrambling, and moved onto a...
CHOCK FAILURE—Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Deer Mountain Buttress. On August 15, John Purvis (22) and Dennis Laird (24) were climbing a vertical technical route on the Deer Mountain Buttress. The route was mixed free and aid. Purvis was...
Northpeak, Deliverance. In August 1980, Jack Roberts and I climbed this route that ascends the narrow face between the 30° snow couloir and the F8 chimney. Nine pitches led to an unroping spot, a long way from the summit. Loose rock, dubious ancho...
OFF ROUTE, FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, NO BELAY/ PROTECTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 0800 on May 29, the “British Army Expedition” departed the 17,200 foot camp with three members: Dr. Martin Kitson, Paul Holmes, and expediti...
Search for old pilgrimage route to Takpa Siri. In remote and rarely visited Arunachal Pradesh, much remains to be explored. One unexplored place had been the Subansiri River valley, in the central part of the area. In November and December a team ...
Aguja Poincenot, Various Ascents. Several ascents were made of Poincenot in the 1995-1996 season, all by the classic 1962 Whillans-Cochrane Route. On January 13, during a brief spell of good weather, three teams crowded onto the route and summitte...
Thor Canyon, Various Ascents. Big Dominquez Canyon is located on the Uncompahgre Plateau near Unaweep Canyon southeast of Grand Junction. Thor Tower is the obvious tower at the head of the canyon. Two routes have been established on the tower. Tho...
Bellicose Peak, Freer’s Cheers, New Route, Previously Unreported. In May, 1998, Carl Oswald and I headed into the Eklutna Valley with sights set on a new route up Bellicose Peak (7,640'). After biking 12 miles, we stashed our ’cycles and walked up...
Ritacuba Negro, Northwest Face, 1980-1. Sergio Gaviria, Colombian, A. Antoine, Swiss and Ecuadorians R. Navarrete and M. Suárez climbed directly the northwest face of Ritacuba Negro (5389 meters, 17,680 feet), a very fine and elegant route, wholly...
Cordilleras Occidental (Volcánica) and Yauyos. Our 12-member Polish expedition first visited the Cordillera Occidental, establishing Base Camp at 4500 meters at Llullipampa, east of Ampato. On June 24 and 25, Kazimierz Glazek, Henryk Gawarecki, Ka...
Sosbun Brakk. Sosbun Brakk was unclimbed although it had been attempted by Germans in 1976. We climbed it by the southwest ridge to the headwall, below which we traversed right to gain the upper slopes. Our expedition consisted of Hisao Hashimoto,...
Nevado Cuyoc, La Face B, New Route, Previously Unreported. On August 18, 1999, Jérôme Blanc-Gras and Sébastien Laurent climbed a 500-meter new route that was primarily mixed (up to M5). Their route tops out on a rocky tower just right of the summi...
FALLING ICE, POOR POSITION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 3 or 4,1986, a party of two was climbing the North Face of Mount Temple. Climbing conditions and weather were excellent, with clear skies and moderate temperatures. The rou...
Hiunchuli, Southeast Face. Rising 10,000 feet above the Modi Khola gorge, Hiunchuli (6441 meters, 21,133 feet) presents a climbing and route- finding challenge. We arrived at our 13,200-foot Base Camp after a strenuous 3000-foot climb up grass slo...
Annapurna South Face Winter Attempt, 1986. A Bulgarian expedition led by Boian Atanasov attempted the very difficult Polish route on the south face of Annapurna. They failed in the winter season after being granted a time extension to February 22,...
Stok and Dhampu Peaks, Various Ascents. It was reported that Alberto Urtasun and Patricia Viscarret made the first ascent of the northeast face of a peak they dubbed “Dhampu Peak” (5150m) in the Lahaul Valley via the route Marsa (30-80°, 400m). Th...
Chaukhamba. A 38-man team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police was led by Assistant Commandant Vinod K. Dandona. Despite very deep snow, they established Base Camp at 4725 meters on the Bhagirath Kharak Glacier on May 22. Camp II was set up on May ...
The Tetons. During the past two summers considerable attention has been given to the unclimbed routes and peaks of Grand Teton National Park. A short description follows of the climbs, from south to north, made this year or last and not previously...