Illampu, East Face. On July 9 two Spaniards from the Canary Islands, César Tejador and Antonio Ramos reached the summit of Illampu (6362 meters, 20,873 feet) by a new route on the left side of the east face, left of the buttress climbed in 1975 by...
FALL WHILE DESCENDING–INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT (CLIMBING ROPE, RAPPEL DEVICE, HARNESS, BRAIN CELLS)New Mexico, Jemez Mountains, Yoyo PitOn May 16, a man and his girlfriend were on an excursion in the Santa Fe National Forest, which had been closed due...
Fitz Roy. John Hudson and Roman Laba arrived in the Fitz Roy region early in 1969. They made several attempts on the peak but were thwarted by bad weather.
Kangchenjunga North Face Attempt. Spanish Basques unsuccessfully attempted to climb Kangchenjunga from the north but were thwarted by bad weather. On May 20, leader Felipe Uriarte, Xabier Ansa, Juan Oiarzabal and José Luis Zuloaga reached 7800 met...
CLIMBING ALONEWashington, Mount RainierOn January 6, 1985, the park communications center received information that there was a climber in the White River area who was preparing for a solo climb. This information was relayed to Park Ranger Bob Mar...
The Colorado Mountain Club during 1948 ran in Trail and Timberline a series of simple line sketches entitled “This could happen to you.” By means of these sketches, experiences of Club members were portrayed and their near-accidents or actual ones...
Washington Column. In August, Stewart Irving and I climbed a new 8-pitch section on the east face of Washington Column between Mideast Crisis and the Great Slab routes, which we call Saddam Hussein (V, 5.9, A4). After a 5.5 pitch, we climbed steep...
Washington, Icicle Ridge, Ida Creek. On 6 July Glenn Bruton (44) and Howard Anderson (42) were traversing down 2,300 yards above creek bottom. They stopped to rest. As they started again Anderson got a bit ahead. He looked back and saw Glenn start...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). Josef Oberauer led three Austrians, two Germans and an American on a successful climb of Tarke Kang’s normal southwest route. They had four camps above Base Camp. On October 22 Oberauer, Klaus Solbach, Miss Herta Kantner...
No Name Pyramid. On August 12, Jack Roberts, Mike Graber, and I climbed a new route on the east face of a prominent peak referred to as “nameless pyramid 0.2 miles south of Kearsarge Pass” in the guidebook. Starting from Heart Lake, our route foll...
The Prow, Bitterroot Mountains. In unusually dry weather, I spent eight days finishing the first free-ascent of the 900-foot south face of the Prow. With the help of Steve Porcella and later Ralph Grana, Timebinder (IV, 5.11) links four different ...
The latest dispatches relative to the International Kanchenjunga Expedition announce that the attack has been abandoned for this year. They will attack instead Jonsong Peak (24,300 ft.) from the Jonsong La, returning to civilization through Nepal ...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The year 1997 brought success and change to The Colorado Mountain Club. In January, John Juraschek became the CMC executive director and Chip Drumwright began his term as president. Their biggest challenge was finishing...
Climbs in Kashmir-Jammu. Nun (7135 meters, 23,400 feet) was climbed in July by six of the ten Spaniards who attempted it, including José María Jayme and Santiago Amibas. They were followed to the summit on October 1 and 3 by nine Japanese led by E...
Alpine Club of Canada. 1972 proved to be an active year for the Alpine Club of Canada, with membership steadily increasing and club activities becoming increasingly popular. The General Mountaineering Camp was held at Fryatt Creek in Jasper Nation...
Aguja Rafael Juarez, Blood on the Tracks; and Desmochada, The Sound and the Fury. In December, Taki Miyamoto (Japan), Freddie Wilkinson (New Hampshire), Paul Tureki (Alaska), and I (Maine) established a new route on Cerro Innominata (also known as...
FALL ON WATERFALL ICE, UNROPED, EXCEEDING ARILITIES, HASTEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle, Professors GullyA group of experienced climbers had finished the first pitch of the Professors Falls, a popular waterfall route near Banff. The climb...
A Climber's Guide To Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. Edited by F. R. Robinson, Potomac Appalachian Trail Mountaineering Section, 1971. $2.50.Finally there is an accurate assemblage of the routes on this fine crag in the Potomac Highlands of West Virg...
Langtang Ri Attempt.Peter Konzert and two other Austrians tried to climb Langtang Ri (7205 meters, 23,638 feet) by the southwest ridge, on which they reached 6700 meters on October 20.Elizabeth Hawley
Balakun. This virgin peak of 21,430 feet northeast of Nilkanta was climbed on July 9 by a six-man team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by Hukam Singh.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club