Peak royalties. Nepalese authorities keep trying to spread expeditions both geographically and seasonally. “Keeping in mind that mountaineering tourism is the backbone of Nepal’s tourism,” a Ministry official stated on April 30, “to make royalty f...
Mt. Hunter, Moonflower Buttress, Ascents, Attempt and Tragedy. The Moonflower Buttress on Mt. Hunter saw two ascents this year and one tragic attempt. Steve Larson and Charlie Townsend began up around May 22; a day later, Joe Terrevecchia and Carl...
Harvard Andean Expedition, Cordillera Blanca. In June, Henry S. Francis, Jr. and his wife Sharon, John S. Humphreys and his wife Alice, Stephen Pomerance and I explored new routes in the Quebrada Parón. Laguna Parón was crossed with the aid of a m...
IN the northern Cascades destiny gave a peak of no special significance a precipice that in recent years has almost become legendary. Because Bear Mountain is flanked by more prominent summits and because its great north wall is slightly concave a...
The idea of a route up Lhotse from the South Col had been floating in the air for a long time. The north ridge is a logical line, but what about the pinnacles on the crest? What about climbing lower, along the west flank, along the rocky ledges th...
Our primary objective was the Gran route on the north face of Monolith. We approached the mountain from Dickinson Park on the northeast (Lander) side and established Base Camp near Papoose Lake. Preferring to warm up on an easier climb, Al Rubin a...
Harvard Mountaineering Club, The past year added another year to a sequence of active ones. During the summer members participated in expeditions in the Yukon, Alaska, and South America. In the St. Elias Range, Boyd Everett’s expedition made the f...
FALL ON ROCK—HAND HOLD CAME OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OFF ROUTE Wyoming, Grant Tetons, Symmetry SpireOn July 14, Chris Schroeder (34) and his partner Ronald Fleck were attempting an ascent of the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire (II 5.7). Schro...
Makalu II (7,678m), new route and first ascent from Tibet. Jean Christophe Lafaille’s ambitious and committing plan was a solo expedition to make the first ascent of Makalu II (aka Kangchungtse) from Tibet, traverse the summit to the Makalu La at ...
The Middle Palisade—First Ascent From the NorthOne of the noblest peaks of the Sierra Nevada is the Middle Palisade. From the south it presents a couloir-furrowed rampart surmounted by numerous serrate pinnacles; from the north it is even more imp...
Colorado, Arapaho Glacier—On July 18, Mrs. Karen Cowperthwaite (19), and her husband David (22) and Richard Raymond (21) attempted to climb the slopes of South Arapaho Peak.It is not known whether they had reached the saddle or not, but a summer s...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, FlatironsSix members from the Colorado Rescue Dogs and Alpine Rescue Team (MRA), who were on a social climb, met the involved party at the start of the Eyebolt route (5.0- 5.4) of the Third Flatiron in subur...
High Peaks of the Parón — Perutah ExpeditionLEIGH N. ORTENBURGERTHE size. The enormous size. This was my impression of the Cordillera Blanca after seeing these magnificent peaks after an absence of seven years. The sheer magnitude of the mountains...
Access and potential climbing in the range between Lhari and Lake Basong. In November 2006 I trekked from Niwu to Punkar over the Laqin La, passing the highest and steepest peaks of the central range. The following information on access and climbi...
Cannon Mountain, VMC Direct. The Old Man of the Mountain’s rock profile is a familiar sight to many Americans but less known and far more important to climbers is Cannon Mountain’s east wall, which extends south from the face along Franconia Notch...
CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinleyJohn Waterman (28) disappeared while on a solo climb of Mt. McKinley in April 1981. For several years, Waterman had been planning a solo ascent of the mountain in winter and had made several unsuccessful attempt...
The Southwest Ridge of FairweatherPeter MetcalfAS the rather flat summit of 15,300-foot Mount Fairweather finally materialized through the fog and mist, a sudden burst of energy shot through my weary body, even though the four of us had been wallo...
Huandoy Este, East Ridge. Italians Massimo Marchini and Paola Gigliotti climbed the south ridge of Huandoy Este on June 3.
Russian-American K2 ExpeditionEd Viesturs, UnaffiliatedOur EXPEDITION TO THE ABRUZZI Ridge of K2 consisted of sixteen climbers, a doctor and a Base-Camp manager. The climbers were two Russians, a Ukrainian, 12 Americans and an Englishman. The expe...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—NO STOPPER KNOT, HASTE, INATTENTIONAlberta, Cougar Canyon, Slowpoke“On Saturday, July 13, we gave a lesson on what happens when you vary from your normal safety routine and don’t check all your gear. We were put...