Visit to the Sherpas, by Jennifer Bourdillon. London: Collins, 1956. 256 pages; ills. Price 16s.The author is the wife of Tom Bourdillon, the Everest climber. While he was on one of the British reconnaissance expeditions, Mrs. Bourdillon spent the...
Idaho, Local Cliff near Idaho Falls—On May 7, 1954, Dale Harker (14) was climbing down a cliff using a fixed rope when some rocks gave way beneath his feet. He was unable to hang onto the rope and fell about 30 feet to the base of the cliff. He br...
San Rafael Swell, Various Ascents. Petrifying Wood Tower, Black Cow (III 5.10 A4, three pitches, 310 feet). The tower is located two and a half miles south from Bottleneck Peak. Lorne Glick and James Garrett made the first ascent via the southeast...
East Kishtwar Peaks. Our team comprised Bob Reid, Roger Webb, Dave Saddler and me. We were active to the north of the Dharlang Nala during early September. Since all high-altitude food and some equipment had been lost by the airline, the original ...
Mount Everest, First Ascent by a Woman. At 12:30 P.M. on May 16 Junko Tabei, a 35-year-old mother of a three-year-old child, reached the summit of Mount Everest with Sherpa Ang Tsering. The 15-member Japanese Ladies Expedition was led by Mrs. Eiko...
K7 West, second ascent; K7, Luna. In 2008 we six Slovenians traveled to the amazing Charakusa Valley above Hushe village with the goals of having as much fun as possible and climbing some good routes. We set up base camp on August 4 and began accl...
AVALANCHE—MISJUDGED HISTORY OF SNOW PACK Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaOn August 31, 1994, mountain guide J.B. and three students on an Association of Canadian Mountain Guides course climbed Mount Athabasca (3490 meters) by the Northeas...
Everest, Japanese and Hornbein Couloirs. A Swedish expedition led by Jack Berg made the ascent of Everest via the Japanese and Hornbein Couloirs. On May 15, two Sherpas, Mingma Norbu and Galbyu got to the top. They were followed on May 20 by Lars ...
Mount Alverstone, Northeast Face. During the closing days of a long spell of excellent weather toward the end of July, John Rupley, Henry Mather, George Lowe and I made the second ascent of Mount Alverstone (14,500 feet) by a completely new route ...
Tingchen Kang (6,010 m), bureaucratic problems. An Indian (Bengal) team led by AVM A. K. Bhattacharya and sponsored by the Himalayan Club from Kolkatta climbed this peak on 6th November. The summiteers were Subrata Chakraborty with Sherpa Pasang P...
Cuerno Norte, East Face, Fist Full of Dollars. British climbers Louise Thomas, Mike Turner, Martin Doyle and Ollie Sanders made the first ascent of the 800-meter east face, an overhanging face that yielded 20 pitches at a grade of up to A3+. Begin...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Cody South Fork, Deer CreekOn January 28, we were halfway down a steep 400-foot gully on our way to Deer Creek, where we would then walk downstream to the Ghosts, a couple of WI 3+/4 routes t...
Peak 9300 (“Double Exposure”), Eastern Alaska Range. One-and-a-half day’s travel brought Tom Kensler and me to the foot of the O’Brien Icefall, which separates the Canwell Glacier from the Old Snowy branch of the Gerstle Glacier in the Delta Mount...
Mount Logan. A scientific expedition led by D.P. Jones and me operated out of a geodesic dome shelter erected on the northwest col in July. The work is connected with a proposed ice core drilling operation in 1979. See Canadian Alpine Journal 1979...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Irene’s AreteIn July of 1994, Scott Putnam and I climbed Irene’s Arete (5.8) on Disappointment Peak in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. We climbed th...
Huascarán. In August Gerry Clegg, Colin Arnold, Ellen J. Harpham and I, Americans, and Pablo Morales, Antonio Vargas and Víctor Albino, Peruvians, reached the summit of Huascarán by the Garganta route.Jack Miller
Chief’s Head, The Headdress. Following a wet summer, a cold September caused ice to form in unusual places in RMNP. Eli Helmuth and I climbed a smear originally found by Duncan Ferguson on the north face of Mt. Meeker. A week later, Helmuth was gu...
Selected Climbs in the Cascades. Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, 1993. 234 pages. 142 black-and-white illustrations, 26 topos, 4 line maps. $22.95The Cascades offer some of the most varied climbing terrain ...
Disappearing Dome, Southeast Face, Memphis Blues. This obscure route, visible from Balloon Dome, was found after many hours of deciphering mazes of Forest Service roads. After one aborted attempt we wandered through seemingly endless logging slash...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Three New Routes. In October, Chester Dreiman and I climbed three new routes here on consecutive days. The first climb, Escape Artist (IV, 5.11) scales a large buttress on the left side of SOB Gully. The next day we c...