FALL ON ROCK, FAILED TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Mexico, Sandia Mountains, Muralla GrandeDave Kilgore (36), Don McIntyre (44), and Steven Patchett (39) were climbing the La Selva rou...
STRANDED CLIMBER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND FOOD AND CLIMBING UNROPEDColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeA party of three (two males, early 20s, and one female, 17) began soloing Organ Pipes (5.6) on th...
Triumph and Tragedy by Jim Curran, is the definitive story in English of what happened on K2 in the summer of 1986. Jim was cameraman for a British expedition, led by his good friend Alan Rouse, an experienced climber. They were stopped on the nor...
Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Ekishak, first ascent; Pik Molly, northwest ridge; Zarya Vostoka and Kurumdy West, attempts. Our Madteam/X-plore Expedition of Raúl Andrés, Olga Ariño, Irene Artuñedo, Enric Canosa, Albert Falcó, Daniel Guimaraens, Julio Masi...
Wyoming, Tetons. On July 3rd Vladimir Farkas and Dean Smith (age 30) were descending the Grand Teton by the Owen-Spalding Route after a climb of the North Ridge. While holding a polypropylene handline Smith slipped on icy snow.The line was too sli...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 17, 1992, the Canadian “GT-92” expedition departed from the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 7,200 feet. They spent the next five days reaching the 14,000 foot camp. Aft...
Northwest Ridge of Mount St. EliasBoyd N. Everett, Jr.Mount St. Elias, the first major peak in Alaska or the Yukon to be climbed, has been a jinx mountain. Through 1964 only three expeditions had reached its summit.* While one American party did c...
On September 12, Jody (27) and Karen (24) spent the day climbing in Tuolumne Meadows with friends Dan and Sanjay. In the afternoon they all hiked up to Low Profile Dome, a few minutes from the road. Jody and Karen climbed the Golfer’s Route (5.7...
American Mount Logan Expedition. On June 11, bush pilot Don Sheldon, flew me from Chitina to the northwest side of Logan and landed on the Quintino Sella Glacier at about 9000 feet. The others, William E. “Smoke” Blanchard, Dr. Norton Benner, Davi...
This is the twenty-ninth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. Again it can be reported that the total number of accidents recorded here are less, though not considerably less, than the total number which likely occurr...
The Location of Mt. Milton and the Restoration of the Names “Mt. Milton” and “Mt. Cheadle”Raymond T. ZillmerTHE expedition of Milton and Cheadle is one of the most remarkable in the amateur exploration of Canada. But the marker on the monument to ...
Clemenceau’s Northeast ArêteGray ThompsonMOUNT CLEMENCEAU is the fourth highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Like Mount Robson, it is a massive and complex peak, isolated from neighboring summits on all sides by low-elevation drainages and glacie...
Mountain of Storms, The American Expeditions to Dhaulagiri, 1969 and 1973, by Andrew Harvard and Todd Thompson. New York: Chelsea House, New York University Press, 210 pages. 52 pages of black and white illustrations and 14 color plates plus maps....
K2 Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Slovenes Dr. Damijan Meško, Viki Grošelj, Davo Karnicar, Boštjan Kekec, Rado Nadvenik, Zvonko Požgaj, Boris Sedej and me as leader, Croat Stipe Božic, Mexican Carlos Carsolio, Swede Göran Kropp...
Oliver Perry-Smith Profile of a MountaineerJ. Monroe Thoringtonin evaluating the record of a climber whose activity reached its climax sixty years ago, one must place it against the standards of its time. In the 1860s when many of the 4000-meter p...
Dorado Needle, South Side. In August Margarite Hargrave and I did a new route on the south side of Dorado Needle up a prominent ridge leading towards a point southeast of the main summit. We approached from a camp at the Klawatti col, traversing w...
Meru South, west face/northwest ridge to below summit, BASE jump of northeast face; Meru Central, second ascent, west face/southeast ridge. May 23 saw the completion of a six-year project to climb to and perform a wingsuit BASE jump from the “high...
Mountains with a Difference, by Geoffrey Winthrop Young. A volume in “The New Alpine Library,” edited by Arnold Lunn. 282 pages, 14 illustrations. London: Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1951. Price, 18/-.All who know Mountain Craft and On High Hills are s...
OME DAIBER1907-1989The “Father of Mountain Rescue,” Ome Daiber, died on April 2, 1989 in his 81st year. A member of the American Alpine Club since 1937, he was made an honorary member in 1976.The story goes that young George Daiber went to the lun...
BRUCE ALLAN CARSON1951–1975Bruce Carson died on September 4, 1975. He fell through a cornice on the summit of Trisul, a 23,362-foot peak in the Indian Himalayas. Falling through a cornice is not a common way to die in the Himalayas. Climbers are m...