Ama Dablam. We climbed the 1961 first-ascent route. Our members were John Michaud, John Tuckey, Scott Johnson, Ken Morr, Ben Greene, Karen Simmonds, Joe Burleson, Ron Crotzer and I as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on September 16. We then fixed ...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Menlungtse, north face attempt. In October 1999 I was the leader of a four-man U.S.- Canadian party that made the first attempt on the north face of Menlungtse. Our goal was a route at the eastern end of the north face, which we hoped would lead d...
At the moment of going to press we have received from the Alpine Club of Canada a copy of the letter of protest sent by them in connection with the altering of the name Castle Mtn. to “Mt. Eisenhower.” The American Alpine Club is in entire agreeme...
New routes in the Sawtooths. Though most of the principal peaks of the Sawtooths have been climbed, we have set ourselves the modest task of discovering the best and most enjoyable routes to the summits of those peaks that offer more than one appr...
Nanga Parbat, North Face, New Route. Since Herman Buhl climbed Nanga Parbat (8125 m) for the first time in 1953, only one party (Czechoslovakia, 1971) has succeeded via the original route. Five other routes have been established elsewhere on the m...
The Stump, Goldfinger; Mt. Barrill, Cobra Pillar speed ascent. An extended Alaska season gave me the opportunity to climb 14 routes on 13 peaks with four different partners. Chris McNamara and I managed to squeeze out four climbs in the Ruth Gorge...
Mount Watson and the Grand Plateau GlacierWalter Gove and Donald J. LiskaON June 5 our party of Mike Allen,Cindy Anderson, Larry Dauelsberg, Walt Gove, Don and Alice Liska and John Neal gathered at Channel Flying in Juneau to be flown by pilot Ken...
Half Dome Free ClimbedTodd SkinnerBACK IN THE SUMMER OF 1986, Paul Piana and I sat down with a map of North America and made a list of all the Big Walls—those over 2000 feet high—on the continent. The list was soon reduced to four walls that were ...
New Zealand Andes Expedition, 1960—Nevado CayeshR. Maurice Davis, New Zealand Alpine ClubA number of New Zealand expeditions have climbed in the Himalayas and in recent years transport has become available for exploration and climbing parties to v...
Nalumasortoq, New Route. It was reported that a Swiss party was believed to have climbed a direct route on the right-hand pillar of Nalumasortoq, cutting through the left-facing diagonal comer system attempted in 1996 by a British team and complet...
Various activity. Jen Olson (Canmore, Alberta) and I (Vancouver, B.C.) arrived in Talkeetna on May 23. That same day Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi flew us to the Cul-de-Sac Glacier in the heart of the Kichatna Spires. The weather gods were w...
Cerro Sierra Bella, South Face, Cerro de Orientación, South Face and Other Peaks. Organized by the Club Alemán Andino, Santiago, our 11-man expedition climbed eleven peaks in the Río Colorado region, two of them 6000ers., between February 1 and 24...
DENTAL-LACERATION AND BICUSPID FRACTUREAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 5th, RMI guide Brent Okita brought a 17-year-old client to the 14,200-foot medical tent to have a dental check. The prior day, the client was eating a frozen nouga...
Cordillera Sud Lipez, Overview. The Cordillera Sud Lípez lies to the east of the southern part of the Cordillera Occidental and runs down to the Bolivia-Chile-Argentina border. Major peaks include Cerro Lípez, Morurco (5681m), Uturuncu (6008m), an...
Southern Liverpool Land, coastal exploration, Raffles and Rathbone islands, various ascents. Simon Burke and I flew to Constable Pynt and helicoptered to Ittoqqortoormiut, arriving on August 8. In 2006 I circumnavigated Milne Land and left kayaks ...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, DECISION MAKINGAlaska, Mount HuntingtonTrapper Creek climber Johnny Soderstrom (26) was declared missing and presumed dead in an avalanche, which occurred on Tuesday, February 15th. Soderstrom was last seen alive...
Until recently The Big Hose (1,000', D+ 5.8 WI3, Jon Krakauer, solo, 1978) on the northeast face of South Howser Tower was the only ice route in the Bugaboos—a range renowned for its alpine rock climbing. After climbing this stellar shaft of ice i...
OCCURRENCE OF TWISTERS ON MOUNTAIN RIDGES1. ObservationsTwisters of great intensity were observed during an ascent of the Watzmann, a mountain in the northern limestone belt of the Alps, south of Berchtesgaden, Germany, on August 1st of this past ...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers, with members Mike Burns, Karen Close, Steven Cox (American team leader), Don Goodman, Natala Goodman, Jim Tweedie and Howard Weaver, joined with The Himalayan Club to conduct the first Indian-American climbing e...