Alaska Alpine Club. The club continued its weekly luncheon business meetings and monthly slide shows. We have added whitewater canoe and kayak skills into our activities, making it possible to get into some very remote spots. We hope to see a numb...
Fitz Roy, Linea di Eleganza, second ascent and first free ascent. In a single push from February 22 to 24, 2006, Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue, and Erik Roed made the first free and first alpine-style ascent (second overall) of Linea di Eleganza ...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, UNROPED, INATTENTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Saddle MountainOn January 29, 1991, about 1500, Jacques and France had just completed a ski ascent of Saddle Mountain, with their dog accompanying them. They were walking along the co...
A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia, by William Lowell Putnam. New York: American Alpine Club. 1971. 323 pages, 35 photos. $7.00 The new revision of this guide has been updated with a see-through plastic-cover similar to m...
Langtang Lirung Attempt. French led by Serge Bazin attempted to climb Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet) by its southeast ridge but got no higher than 6100 meters on October 29.Elizabeth Hawley
Nandapal. This difficult virgin 20,690-foot peak, east of Tirsuli, was climbed by an Indo-Tibetan Border Police team on June 8 despite unfavorable weather. Deputy Leader Ramesh Chandra was one of the ten who reached the summit.Kamal K. Guha, Himal...
Cerro Domingo Faustino Sarmiento (Ansilta 7). Though this peak was first climbed in 1958 by the northwest ridge, it has rarely been visited. It is second in height in the Ansilta group, but the most difficult. Humberto Campodónico made the first a...
STRANDEDOregon, Mount JeffersonOn September 17, 1993, William Reeves (47), an experienced hiker, was on a four-day trip around the summit of the 10,497-foot peak when he became stranded away from his base camp during a snowstorm.Jefferson County s...
The Italian Expedition composed of Ardito Desio, conte Leonardo Bonzi, Gaetano Polvara, cav. Vittorio Ponti, and Paolo Righini which set out by airplane on July 26th, 1933. to explore the mountains west of Isfahan has returned after having accompl...
Zanser Kangri. Our joint Japanese-Tibetan expedition had Gonbu as Tibetan commander-in-chief and me as chief leader. It was a long way to Zanser Kangri which lies in northwest Tibet and we covered 3000 kilometers round-trip. We left Lhasa with sev...
Babulal Lamu Tamang and Alexandre Ulcakar from France are the first known party to have attempted Samdo since the peak was brought onto the permitted list in 2003. The peak lies northeast of Manaslu on the Tibetan border, south of the Lajyung La. ...
Washington, Olympics—The Brothers—On May 26, fifty-three persons on an Olympic College Basic Mountaineering Class climb reached the summit of The Brothers. The very warm sun penetrated through a light fog. Someone had climbed the mountain a week b...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDED ABILITIES—Colorado, Mt. Evans. Brian Driscoll (29) and Jeff Feet (23) were “scrambling” on extremely loose rock below Crest House. Fell, slid some 600 feet down snow/rock couloir. Dead on arrival from massive internal and ce...
Mount Silliman, Sequoia National Park. In June 1981, Guy McClure and I did two new routes on the west ridge of Mount Silliman. From 10,000 feet, a short way below Silliman Lake, the southern face of this ridge rises in a long series of steep grani...
AMS—NO INCIDENTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressKim Jae Suk and Park Jae Il (24) of the Korean Palgong Kyung Ju party ascended the Messner Couloir on May 28. Il became ill with Acute Mountain Sickness over half way up the route, requiring eigh...
Northern Sikkim, Kangchengyao (6,889m), ascent from north. It is reported that a 14-member team from the Black Cat Division of the Indian Army made a rare ascent of this high peak in northern Sikkim. While the south side of this mountain is very f...
OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount SnowdomeJ.R. (28) hitchhiked to the Columbia Icefields on February 20, and hiked to the base of the difficult and hazardo...
One of the main events of autumn was the solo ascent, by Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar, of Annapurna East via the south face to the east ridge. Humar selected the far eastern end of the face because there are not as many falling stones as el...
Ascent of Guillaumet, Normal Route. On February 27, 1997, Tom Douglas, Gabe Schlumberger and I climbed the normal route on Guillamet (in the Fitz Roy massif). We left the Paso Superior at 9 a.m. and hiked through two feet of new snow to the base. ...
Western Colorado, Various Ascents. On August 4, Jesse Harvey, Pat Goodman and I made the first ascent of a yummy 350-foot flake of rotten sandstone, limestone and shale that we dubbed Putterman’s Flake. It sits a couple miles north of (the Cameo) ...