Colorado College Mountain Club. The club continues it usual activities of climbing and hiking. Last spring we held our annual snow and ice schools and we climaxed the snow season by building a huge snow sculpture at Mountaineer’s Weekend near Lara...
Poles Apart: Parallel Visions of the Arctic and Antarctic. Galen Rowell. Mountain Light Press, Berkeley, California, 1995. 184 pages, profusely illustrated in color. $39.95.We expect the best from Galen Rowell and this is no exception. Some consid...
Attempt on Kohe Langar. A French group led by Denis Van De Velde in which D. Charron took part was interested in peaks in the Shar Shkhawr (formerly Langar) valley. The undersigned was able to give them details of the successful German expedition ...
East Huey Spire, Don't Panic It’s Organic. Scott Hollander and I climbed a new route on East Huey this summer. Our trip was fortunate to have great weather, but it still rained most afternoons. After our two and a half days of travel from the stat...
Whymper in Canada. It is not often remembered that the conqueror of the Matterhorn made a lecture tour in the United States in the autumn of 1900. On arrival in New York he learned from Cornelius Hanbury of the death of the latter’s sister, Charlo...
Karavshin Region, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British team of Paul Pritchard, Dave Green, Johnny Dawes and Noel Craine visited the Ak-Su valley in September, making some notable ascents. They began by repeating the Donahue/Harvey rou...
Zongo Pass Area Ski Descents; Cunatincuta (Chekhapa) and Ayllayco. In early July, Don Pattison and Jimmy Katz attempted to nordic ski 19,996-foot Huayna Potosí, but encountered exceptionally windy and sun-crusted conditions and did not reach the s...
FALL ON ROCK–HANDHOLD PULLED OUT, APPARENTLY FAILED TO TEST HOLD, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew Mexico, Sandia Mountain Wilderness, Muralla GrandeOn May 8, two resident physicians set out to climb Warpy Moople (5.9- .10, III), an eight pitch...
Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy. The Gakuyukai expedition was led by Masatoshi Yokota and composed of Satoshi Aoki, Nobuhiro Matsumiya, Masaaki Kitagawa and Katsuhiko Hojo. After establishing Base Camp on Lago Torre, they hoped in three months, January t...
Kanchenjunga Attempt and Tragedy. The advance party of four members and one support member left Bombay on February 22. At Hille about 200 porters were hired to ferry the expeditions loads. The advance party established Base Camp on March 26 at 550...
STRANDED, EXPOSURE INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn November 29, Sean Amastasian (19) and Tony Radcliffe (20) were located at the top of a climb called Split-Pants, or Gate Buttress (5.7). The climbers stated when they went up,...
The Club de Exploraciones de Mexico reports that the unfortunate number of accidents on the Mexican volcanoes and mountain crags is not diminishing, but that efforts are being made to indoctrinate Mexican climbers through the many existing clublet...
Half Dome, Northwest Face, Kali-Yuga, 1989. In early October 1989, I arrived in Yosemite with no specific plans and met Walt Shipley, who had just finished carrying his gear down the Half Dome slabs after a solo attempt of a new route to the right...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park, Edith Creek Cornice. On 5 September Russ Montgomery (35) was practicing self-arrest with Guide Jim Ullin. Apparently he went off the cornice upside down and backward without checking to see if he had a safe r...
Gangapurna Attempt. The Tourism Ministry says that a lone Korean, Lee Suk-Woo, and his sirdar climbed to 7100 meters on January 31 and then gave up when they couldn’t find a route above that point.Elizabeth Hawley
Lone Pine Peak, South-Southeast Face. From the Stone House the south-southeast face of Lone Pine Peak presents the following features: a large couloir starts to the right of the lowest point of the face and ends very high beneath a steep step thro...
Lost Horse Buttress and Unnamed Tower, Bitterroot Mountains. Five separate attempts were made on this route before it was finally completed. Most were foiled by bad weather. Rod Sutherland began this route on the south face in July, putting up eig...
Mt. Audubon, 13,223 ft., was ascended on February 9, 1930, by Erl Ellis and John L. J. Hart, using skis.
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The 300+ members of the Arizona Mountaineering Club enjoyed another successful year of climbing-based activities. The AMC meets monthly and, in 1997, featured such nationally known speakers as Kitty Calhoun, Paul Piana...
P 6036 and P 6150, Miyar Nala, 1985. Scots from Edinburgh University, Peter Smith, leader, Fraser Alexander, Ulric Jessop, Teresa Lee, Alister Matthewson and Jonathan Whittaker, climbed these two peaks alpine-style in early September 1985. They cl...