The Position of Saltoro Kangri and Sia Kangri. The Editor has received a communication from Colonel Narindar Kumar, leader of the 1981 Indian Army expedition to the Karakoram, in which he emphasizes that the Indians definitely consider that these ...

Cayesh, Cordillera Blanca. The west face of Cayesh has lost a great deal of snow and ice in the past few years. In 1988, Germans Jörg Steinsberger and Malte Roeper climbed a new direct route on the west face of Cayesh. (See AAJ, 1989, page 168.) O...

K2. We left Dassu on May 7. Our approach march took 13 rather than 11 days because of bad weather. We worked in two separate groups. Nicole Niquille, Marcel Rüedi, Norbert Joos and Jacques Grandjean prepared the route on the Abruzzi Ridge, placing...

Franz Stöger, guide in the Kaisergebirge, died in December at the age of fifty–two. He was the keeper of the Stripsenjoch hut and was the inventor of the karabiner ring. Between 1925 and 1934 he made 227 ascents of the Totenkirchl.

Northeast face of Middle Cathedral Rock. On October 1 Charles Pratt and I put a new route up Middle Cathedral Rock which goes up the crack systems to the left of the Powell-Reed route. The climb took 1½ days and 110 pitons. Because of the lack of ...

Jirishhanca and Yerupajá Chico, Cordillera Huayhuash, and Ascents in the Cordillera Raura. The expedition of the Österreichischer Alpenverein accomplished two of the most difficult ascents yet made in the Andes. The Austrian group was led by Dr. H...

Shivling, Direct North Ridge. A two-member team comprising Thomas and Alexander Huber were in the Garhwal to climb a direct finish to the north ridge of Shivling (6543m). When Alexander fell ill early in the expedition, Thomas teamed up with Iwan ...

Pumori, Women’s Expedition. We were seven women, Diane Taliaferro, Sue Giller, Lucy Smith, Carol Snetsinger, Kathy Phibbs, Lynne Wolfe and I, and one man, Steve Lawrence. We climbed the southwest ridge. Through a series of events, we ended at a Ba...

Apostelens Tommel Finger and Ketil, West Face, South Greenland. A French expedition led by Maurice Barrard accomplished two extremely difficult ascents just north of Kap Farvel. From July 22 to 29 Barrard, Pierre-Henri Feuillet, Yves Payrau, Miche...

Annapurna North Face, Ascent and Attempts, Post-Monsoon. A Russian expedition was led by Alexander Glushkovski. They climbed the Dutch Rib on the north face. On October 24, Sergei Arsentiev and Nikolai Cherny reached the summit. Two other groups w...

Sporohyte Spire, Cashmere Crags, Stuart Range. On August 11 Shari Kearney and I climbed the north face of this vegetated tower of granite. It lies partway up Toketie Creek, south of Snow Creek Wall. We followed an obvious cleft which cuts across t...

FALL ON ROCK, PITON AND NUT FAILURE—Ontario, Bon Echo Park. Sean Lewis and Ted Rosen were making the second ascent of a 5.5 route on the Bon Echo cliff on September 18, in excellent weather. Rosen led from the first belay point about 80 feet above...

Mana, Northwest Ridge. An Indo-Tibet Border Police team, led by Mohinder Singh, started on the August 12 for Mana (7272 meters). Basecamp was established at Vasudhara Tal on August 12. Following the East Kamet Glacier, camps were established at 51...

Pico La Cresta, Nevado del Huila, Cordillera Central. Sergio Gaviria and two Basque climbers (both members of the Spanish expedition to Everest in 1980) made the first ascent of Pico La Cresta (c. 5200 meters, or 17,061 feet) in December. It had b...

Fortress Attempt, Paine Group. In February British climbers under the leadership of Keith Myhill made an unsuccessful attempt on the southeast face of the Fortress.

Mount Torment, East Ridge. This peak, often neglected, offers some of the best climbing in the Cascade Pass area. Eight routes had been completed, though it had been climbed only eleven times. On June 17, Mike Borghoff and I hiked up the snowfield...

Rinrijirca, South Face. From a high camp at 16,900 feet, the Italian A. Paleari on June 3 climbed the south face of Rinrijirca solo in four hours with mixed climbing and ice up to 80°. From the top of the face, it took him another three hours to t...

Various new routes. Between March 29 and April 7,2002, Rich Chappell, Jose Rueter, Mike Sterling, and I made first ascents in the Hayes Range. Jim Cummings of Delta flew us to the west fork of the Gillam Glacier, beneath the west face of Mt. Hess....

P 6294, Chamba Region. A Japanese party from Meiji University composed of T. Sakamoto, M. Sahara and A. Sazuki climbed the second highest mountain in the region, P 6294 (20,650 feet) on September 27. The mountain is southwest of Baihali Jot. Base ...

Winter Traverse of the Indian Himalaya. From January 27 to February 21, Susie Patterson and Ned Gillette went from Leh to Zanskar to Manali, covering about 225 miles and crossing three mountain ranges: Zanskar, Great Himalaya and Pir Panjal. It wa...