Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Khrebet Kyokkiar and Gory Sarybeles, Seven First Ascents

Khrebet Kyokkiar and Gory Sarybeles, seven first ascents. After visiting this interesting and unexplored range in 2001, I organized another expedition in August, 2002. Karl Baker, John Cuthbert, Graham Sutton, and I (David Gerrard, as leader) made...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, Northwest Buttress Attempt

Annapurna, Northwest Buttress Attempt. An expedition of six Austrians was led by Hubert Fritzenwallner. On October 13, they reached a high point of 6120 meters on the northwest buttress.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, International Makalu Expedition

International Makalu Expedition. Our expedition had as main objectives the fourth ascent of Makalu (27,825 feet) by the 10,000-foot- high south face without oxygen with a minimum of Sherpas during the inhospitable post-monsoon season. Members were...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Outdoor Athlete: Total Training for Outdoor Performance

The Outdoor Athlete: Total Training for Outdoor Performance. Steve Ilg. Cordillera Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1987. 265 pages, 95 black and white photographs, 7 drawings, appendix, glossary, bibliography. $12.95 (paper).There is nothing new about...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Poor Communication, Inadequate Belay — Distracted, Kentucky, Red River Gorge

FALL ON ROCK, POOR COMMUNICATION, INADEQUATE BELAY - DISTRACTEDKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyOn March 21,I took a lead fall, landing at the base of the climb Suppress the Rage (5.12a) located at the Sunny Side. I was at the second-to-last ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, German and Pakistani Success

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, German and Pakistani Success. I organized this small expedition but gave the leadership over to German Dr. Ekkert Gundelach. The other members were Swiss Diego Wellig, Philipp Zehnder and Peter Schwitter. They reached Ba...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Western Garhwal, Obra Valley, Pt. 5,760m Attempt; Pt. 5,165m

Obra Valley, Pt. 5,760m attempt; Pt. 5,165m. In the autumn a four-member team from the Alpine Club became the first climbers to explore the head of the little-known Obra Valley, an area of sub-6,000m peaks west of the Bandarpunch-Swargarohini grou...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Berkeley

California, Berkeley—On March 11, 1956 a group of about 15 climbers that included experienced men as well as novices was practicing lower belaying at Indian Rock under the direction of the outing leader. The belayer was at ground level using a sta...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Torbert, Alaska Range

Mount Torbert, Alaska Range. On the afternoon of May 14 John Gar- dey, Dr. George Wichman, Dr. Rod Wilson, and I were flown in the 100 miles from Anchorage by Lowell Thomas, Jr. in his Cessna 180 to a point on the Triumvirate Glacier at 4000 feet,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded—Out of Food, Weather, California, Yosemite Valley, Magic Mushroom

STRANDED—OUT OF FOOD, WEATHER California, Yosemite Valley, Magic MushroomOn April 24, 1994, Ken Bokelund's (28) wife reported to the NPS that he and Kevin Andrews (30) were one day overdue from climbing the Magic Mushroom route (VI 5.10 A4) on El ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Trekking Mount Everest

Trekking Mount Everest. Ryohei Uchida. Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1991. 128 pages, 257 color photographs, 3 sketch maps. $16.95. Ryohei Uchida is a master photographer. He has been a professional for 21 years and has visited Nepal thirty time...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Bear Mountain, North Face

Bear Mountain, North Face. After several days of trail and of vicious brush from our Beaver Creek-Perry Creek approach, Jeff Thomas, Ed Newville, Shari Kearney and I scrutinized Bear’s north face. We spotted a long 2000-foot buttress west of Becke...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock – Ontario, Bon Echo

FALLING ROCK—Ontario, Bon Echo. Skip King and John Hammond were climbing on the Pinnacle at Bon Echo on May 14. At the top, King pulled a loose block from beneath a tree above the two protection pins, and was hit on the head and right wrist as it ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal Himalaya, Mana Northwest, Southwest Ridge

Mana Northwest, Southwest Ridge. An Indo-Japanese Expedition (Indo-Tibet Border Police and Himalayan Association of Japan), led by S. D. Sharma and Hideyuki Uematsu, climbed Mana Northwest (7092m) in August. Summit was reached on August 18 and Aug...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Lone Peak, Direct West Face, Wasatch Mountains

Lone Peak, Direct West Face, Wasatch Mountains. In the past the lower slabs had repelled attempts at a direct ascent of the west face of Lone Peak, but the main subject of conjecture was how to solve a great overhanging band about two-thirds of th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California - Sierra Nevada, Sorcerer Needle

Sorcerer Needle. The higher, sharp spire immediately east of the Wizard. First ascent, April 11, via the west face above the Wizard-Sorcerer notch. Rappel 75 feet from the summit of the Wizard into the high, western notch; two leads over steep, br...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. 1989 saw the direction and function of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club change noticeably. In the spring the D.M.C. continued to offer comprehensive rock-climbing instruction to Dartmouth students and community memb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Alto Ritacuba and Other Peaks, Cordillera Oriental

Alto Ritacuba and Other Peaks, Cordillera Oriental. Two expeditions from our club were active in the northern portion of the Cocuy or Güicán district. On December 23, 1977, Rosa Pabón and I ascended Alto Ritacuba, highest in the entire range (5464...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Stikine Ice Cap, Noel Peak, West Face and Mt. Ratz, West Face

Noel Peak, West Face and Mt. Ratz, West Face. Fred Beckey, Dave Creeden, and I arrived in Petersburg May 24 at the tail end of a rare month-long streak of excellent weather, hoping to access a group of three 10,000-foot peaks approximately 50 mile...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gauri Sankar, Rolwaling Himalaya

Gauri Sankar, Rolwaling Himalaya. Mr. Ian Clough was kind enough to send the Editor a detailed account of the British expedition led by Don Whillans; a summary follows. The other members of this light expedition were Dennis Gray, Terry Burnell, Ia...