Huandoy Este, East Ridge. Italians Massimo Marchini and Paola Gigliotti climbed the south ridge of Huandoy Este on June 3.
Russian-American K2 ExpeditionEd Viesturs, UnaffiliatedOur EXPEDITION TO THE ABRUZZI Ridge of K2 consisted of sixteen climbers, a doctor and a Base-Camp manager. The climbers were two Russians, a Ukrainian, 12 Americans and an Englishman. The expe...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—NO STOPPER KNOT, HASTE, INATTENTIONAlberta, Cougar Canyon, Slowpoke“On Saturday, July 13, we gave a lesson on what happens when you vary from your normal safety routine and don’t check all your gear. We were put...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. After organizational and political difficulties, we started from Poland on July 31. The team consisted of Dr. Jan Koisar, Zygmund Krzechki, Wojciech Dzik, Jerzy Kukuczka, Jósef Kubik, Jan Loson, Janusz Majer, Mari...
“Deprivation” on Mount HunterMarc Francis TwightOur new psycho-mixed climb,“Deprivation,” rises nearly 2000 vertical meters (6562 vertical feet) up the north buttress of Mount Hunter west of Mugs Stump's and Paul Aubrey’s 1981 Moonflower Buttress ...
Bugaboos. Rising from a western spur of Flattop Peak, and visible from few points in the Bugaboos, are two sharp spires (ca. 9200) which had remained unclimbed until 1961. On August 3 Edith Aston, Pierre Garneau, Peter Geiser, Sue Redpath and I re...
Mount Fairweather, Attempt. The Chukyo (another name for Nagoya) Alpine Club sent Susumu Kosaka, leader, Yoshikazu Sakai, Kunio Kanno, Shuji Fukamizu and Kenji Nishi to Alaska. They were flown to Lituya Bay from Juneau on June 6. Two of the party ...
A Day at the Races—SnowbirdMichael Kennedy“YOU AMERICANS are selling out too easily,” an English friend told me on the eve of the finals at the International Sport Climbing Championship, held last June at Snowbird, Utah. He elaborated in earnest o...
Royal Tower, Spam and Legs. Memories of fear and exhilaration lingered as I waited out the storm. What a climb our new route was! For 26 hours of continuous climbing, the ice, rock, and snow of the Royal Tower demanded our concentrated energy. My ...
New Routes on the Aiguille du Plan and the Cardinal, Rassemblement International d’Alpinistes, Chamonix. Memories of Chamonix: vin rouge, bad weather, talking politics, great meals … But what of climbing? We had come, forty of us from twenty count...
Shrikanta. Our group consisted of Peter J. Fuhrmann, technical leader, Thomas Anderson, Claire S. Israelson, Scipio Merler, my wife Sharon Virk and me, organizational leader, all Canadians, and the Indians Rattan Singh and liaison officer Gurdeep ...
Great Gorge of Ruth Glacier is deeper than the Grand CanyonBradford WashburnWHAT MAY BE THE deepest gorge in North America was measured successfully for the first time in the summer of 1992 by scientists from the Geophysical Institute of the Unive...
Tales of a Western Mountaineer, by C. E. Rusk. With a portrait of C. E. Rusk by Darryl Lloyd. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1978. Offset reprint of the original edition of 1924, including title page and 41 photographs, 309 pages, plus 14 pages of int...
Disappearing Dome, Disappearing in Plain Sight. In July Hunter Sibbald and I climbed a new route on Disappearing Dome, in the southern Yosemite area overlooking the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River. We called it Disappearing in Plain Sight (...
Cordilleras Yauyos and Central. Ekke Rubel, leader, Günther Bram, Peter Mirwald, Jochen Edrich, Hans Huber, Axel von Hillebrandt and I took the railroad from Lima to Huancayo, where we changed to a hired bus to get to Alis, north of the Yauyos. Th...
Sentinel, Northwest Couloir and Damon, North Face, Northern Selkirks. On July 11 Margaret Bland, Diane and Geoff Edmunds, A1 Ramanauskas, Joan Nester and I climbed this prominent couloir which can be seen from the Fairy Meadow Cabin. We climbed ov...
Eldred Valley, West Main Wall, Call of the Granite. Due west from Squamish, the Eldred Valley is the backyard of the small coastal mill town of Powell River. Large mountains, deep valleys, and inlets prevent direct road access to the peninsula, bu...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HATWyoming, TetonsLoren Sheffer (age unknown) was descending from an attempt on the Grand Teton via the Exum Ridge, when he slipped on snow just above the Spalding Falls area of Garnet Canyon. Sheffer wa...
Tierra del Fuego Climbing and Kayaking. From January to March Paul de Mengel and I explored Tierra del Fuego. Starting at Puerto Hambre, a roadhead just south of Punta Arenas, we kayaked across the Magellan Straits, through the Acualisman Channel ...
Bonney’s Guide: Jackson’s Hole and Grand Teton National Park, written and published by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine G. Bonney, 1309 American Investors Building, Houston 2, Texas, 1961. 144 pages, illustrated, maps. Price $1.95.The Bonneys, who rec...