Tien Shan, Ascents and Descents. We traveled into the Tien Shan for an adventure film for the Outdoor Life channel. Our group consisted of adventure skiers Doug and Emily Coombs, skier and cameraman Bill Gallen, snowboarder John Griber and skier/d...
San Gabriel, South Face, Winter Ascent, 1984. On September 1, 1984 Christian Thiele and I made the first winter ascent of this route, first climbed by Colombians in 1982. (A.A.J., 1984, page 216). It is one of the few granite faces in central Chil...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 12, 1982, Darrel Whynot (33) fell two to three meters onto his back when a rock he stepped on disappeared. He was reaching for a belay rope which had been dropped from above. His ...
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents. It was reported that Spaniards Óscar Acín, Javier Pina and Miguel-Angelo Zaragoza made a number of first ascents in the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. They first climbed Directa Inti (IV/3) on the 500-meter south ...
FALL ON SNOW, SKIING, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn February 5, 1984, Robert Kelman (53), Pat Lang (30), and Robert McDonald (25) started at 0130 from Bear Lake (2842 meters) in Rocky Mountain National Park to ski th...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn January 19,1986, at 1310 Jim Angione fell approximately six meters while free solo climbing “Cranny” (F-5.7) at Quail Springs Picnic Area. Angione sustained a fra...
Nun, Kun and Pinnacle Peak. Many expeditions now visit Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) and Kun (7077 meters, 23,220 feet). Among the successful ones were the following. Five Koreans led by Jung Byung-Taek climbed Nun by its north ridge in late June...
Abasraju Attempt, Paqtsaraju, San Juan, Shaqsha. I climbed the south side of Abasraju, thinking I was on a different mountain. Becoming confused in clouds, I did not go to the summit. Teamed up with Austrian Gerhard Feichtenschlager, I did the who...
K12, Saltoro Group, 1984. Our Indian Army expedition climbed K12 (7428 meters, 24,371 feet) on October 17, 1984. The summiters were Nb/Sub. N.D. Sherpa, Hav. Rattan Singh Rana and Hav. Nima Sherpa. The route was along the west ridge.Prem Chand, Li...
Piz Buin. A 5 m. cross has been erected on its summit, the highest peak of Vorarlberg (Silvretta).
Mt. Robson. Fred Ayres and Dick Irvin made a variant of Kain’s original route up Mt. Robson in the summer of 1955. Instead of climbing the steep, often ice-covered rocks above the Dome to reach the southeast ridge they kept to the right as you fac...
Tower of Delphina, Dee-Bees Rib. On the north side of the Bubbs Creek drainage at Junction Meadow, lies a series of buttresses and towers. The Tower of Delphina is the only one which is orange and readily distinguishable by a huge dihedral which s...
El Capitan, “Gulf Stream,” New Route on the East Face. On September 9, Steve Gerberding, John Harpole and I completed a superb new route on El Capitan’s east face. It is a mostly independent line up the eastern seaboard of the North America Wall, ...
Glacier Point Apron, Coonyard Pinnacle Route. From the top of Monday Morning Slab, the Glacier Point Apron rises up at only a 65° angle, but it is very smooth and crackless. After several attempts Layton Kor, Richard Calderwood, Bill Amborn, Jeff ...
Latok I, North Ridge, Attempt, Harpoon, First Ascent, and Other Activity. Our expedition consisted of Lyle Dean, John Bouchard, and myself. We established Base Camp at the head of Choctoi Glacier directly across from the north ridge and north east...
Nameless Tower, Western Buttress, Trango Towers. Right after our attempt on the south face of Lhotse, Frenchman Michel Fouquet and I joined Swiss Michel Piola and Frenchman Patrick Delale in Skardu on May 24. With mountain bicycles, we got to Base...
Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Raymond Lambert and his wife Annette climbed Cotopaxi (19,848 feet) on March 9, 1957 and Chimbora2o (20,702 feet) on March 17. This was the first time that a woman had ever climbed either of these peaks.
Arwa Spire, East Summit, First Ascent. In October, a British expedition led by Kenton Cool made the first ascent of the Arwa Spire’s East Summit (6193m) via the Northeast Ridge (TD+ WI4 5.9, 2000m). Andy Benson and Pete Benson climbed the route on...
Pumori. The members of our expedition were Masayoshi Utsumi, Toshiaki Kobayashi, Toshiyuki Hayakawa, Hisao Tatsukawa, Yongjong An, Mrs. Suzue Terasaki, Miss Ritsuko Sakai and I as leader. This was the second time I had climbed the mountain, having...
Ketil and Other Peaks, Tasermiut Fjord. During August a group of French climbers led by F. Guillot explored peaks around Koromint valley (Kimukât on the 250,000 map). We arrived at Narsarssuaq airport on July 23, helicoptered to Nanortalik and tra...