Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Parque Nacional Baranca del Cobre, Dong Tower, the Main Vein

Parque National Barranca del Cobre, Dong Tower, the Main Vein. A bachelor expedition for John O’Connor brought five friends to the rim of Barranca del Urique, in Parque Nacional Barranca del Cobre, Chihuahua, from January 9-25. We originally inten...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Attempt

Annapurna Attempt. A five-man Italian expedition led by Giacomo Stefani had hoped to climb a new route on Annapurna, the northwest buttress and north face. Early on they decided against the route because it was all exposed rock rather than snow-co...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Deo Tibba, Hanuman Tibba, Manali Peak

Deo Tibba, Hanuman Tibba, Manali Peak. These continue to be popular targets for small parties and trainees from the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute at Manali.Sohli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri IV

Dhaulagiri IV. The leader of this Japanese expedition was Mitsuhiko Hattori. From Base Camp at 11,150 feet on the Konaba Glacier, they continued presumably along the route attempted by the Austrians. They found the climb beyond Camp II difficult a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Central Andes, Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado. A joint Argentine-Italian-Czechoslovakian expedition was led by Italian Francesco Santon. Argentine Manuel Montoya and Czechs Petr Šverma and I climbed the Ojos del Salado from the south in five days from Casadero Grande, arriving...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Jammu and Kashmir, P 6000 and Z3, Durung Drung Glacier

P 6000 and Z3, Durung Drung Glacier. A Japanese expedition of ten men and one woman ascended the Durung Drung Glacier to make what they state was the first ascent of P 6000 (19,685 feet) at the head of the glacier. Katsuo Sakai and three others se...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Rafael, Quilombo

Aguja Rafael, Quilombo. When Zack Smith and I arrived at the Chalten Massif in Argentine Patagonia, the weather had been bad for over two months, with no sign of improvement. We established our high camp within a week, and amazingly the weather be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Upernivik Island, West Greenland

Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Our expedition was composed of Enrique Benavente, Juan Cerda, Emilio Civis, Berta Escola, Heinz Porkorski, Jorge Pons, Sara Pinazo, Elisabeth Verges and me as leader. We climbed a total of twelve virgin peaks. Aft...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Northern Andes, Agua Negra Region, New Peaks

Agua Negra Region, New Peaks. Using as a base a small populated place called Guardia Vieja, situated at 3000 meters on the new international road to Chile, we climbed for 20 days among the peaks near Agua Negra Pass. We were Miguel Beorchia, Lucia...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Fall on Ice, Faulty Use of Crampons, "Pitons" Pulled Out, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, “PITONS” PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn July 31, 1989, Paul Hammond (21), Erik Larson (17), and Carl Steger (21) were traversing fro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Autumn Ascents and Attempts

Ama Dablam, Autumn Ascents and Attempts. Ama Dablam (6812 meters, 22,349 feet) continues to be very popular. All climbs and attempts in this post-monsoon season were made on the southwest ridge with the exception of one unsuccessful attempt. A two...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Batura I and Haramosh Attempts

Batura I and Haramosh Attempts. There were two unsuccessful Polish expeditions, one to Batura I led by Jerzy Tillak and the other Haramosh led by Jacek Bruzdowiez. Details are not known.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, North Face of Liberty Bell, Cascades

North Face of Liberty Bell, Cascades. Towards the end of August, 1956, Hans Kraus and John Rupley packed up Early Winters Creek in the eastern Cascades, above Lake Chelan, to attempt a route on the north face of Liberty Bell. A brief reconnaissanc...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado—Rocky Mts., Wold Creek Pass

Colorado—Rocky Mts., Wolf Creek Pass: On 12 August 1953, Douglas Beard (15) and two companions, all members of a scout troop summer camp, set out to climb a steep slope above Wolf Creek Pass. About 100 feet up, Beard lost his footing and plunged t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Bottleneck Peak, San Rafael Swell, 1993

Bottleneck Peak, San Rafael Swell, 1993. In March 1993, John Allen and I climbed the north face of the west sub-summit shoulder of Bottleneck Peak (II, 5.10+) in Buckthorn Wash.James Funsten, Unaffiliated


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, California, Yosemite National Park

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite National ParkOn September 7, 1991, John Medlock (28) was lead climbing the Nutcracker route on Manure Pile Buttress and was about 120 feet off the ground going around a large rock horn when h...


Notes AAJ
Access Issues

Access issues. In the middle of 2007 the Egyptian Tourism Ministry announced that they were banning climbing in Sinai, which would have effectively stopped all climbing in Egypt. However, by late autumn this had been rescinded and Dave Lucas made ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake CragD.L. was leading a pitch at the Back of the Lake Crag on June 6, 1993 when he fell. His protection pulled, and he hit the ground, sustaining a compound ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Nanda Devi Sanctuary, Investigative Expedition

Nanda Devi Sanctuary, investigative expedition. The president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, N Vohra, organized an expedition in June-July 2001 to investigate whether the Sanctuary should be opened to climbers, trekkers, and scientific r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Chau Chau Kang Nilda, Southeast Ridge

Chau Chau Kang Nilda, Southeast Ridge. A ten-member expedition from Calcutta was led by Alok Basu. On September 15, Miss Yana Banerjee-Bey, Apu Chatterjee, Sumit Data, Mrs. Kalpana Ghosh, Tapo Nayan Ghosh, Chan- chal Hazra, Amaresh Malakar, and hi...