Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Rinrijirca, South Face

Rinrijirca, South Face. From a high camp at 16,900 feet, the Italian A. Paleari on June 3 climbed the south face of Rinrijirca solo in four hours with mixed climbing and ice up to 80°. From the top of the face, it took him another three hours to t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Various New Routes

Various new routes. Between March 29 and April 7,2002, Rich Chappell, Jose Rueter, Mike Sterling, and I made first ascents in the Hayes Range. Jim Cummings of Delta flew us to the west fork of the Gillam Glacier, beneath the west face of Mt. Hess....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, P 6294, Chamba Region

P 6294, Chamba Region. A Japanese party from Meiji University composed of T. Sakamoto, M. Sahara and A. Sazuki climbed the second highest mountain in the region, P 6294 (20,650 feet) on September 27. The mountain is southwest of Baihali Jot. Base ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahaul-Spiti, Winter Traverse of the Indian Himalaya

Winter Traverse of the Indian Himalaya. From January 27 to February 21, Susie Patterson and Ned Gillette went from Leh to Zanskar to Manali, covering about 225 miles and crossing three mountain ranges: Zanskar, Great Himalaya and Pir Panjal. It wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, Middle Sister, Monument Valley

Middle Sister, Monument Valley. The Three Sisters are among the most noted sandstone formations in Monument Valley. The two outer Sisters had been climbed by Layton Kor and his party in the fall of 1966 and so the middle tower whetted our “first-a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Patagonia

Patagonia. The Southern Patagonian Icecap was crossed during 45 days early in 1962 by the Chileans, Claudio Lucero, César Vásquez, Esteban Síquez and Fernando Fuentes. They were landed in the Fiordo Tempano, crossed to the foot of the Volcán Lauta...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Rishi Kot, Northwest Face, 1976

Rishi Kot, Northwest Face, 1979. Tadeusz Karolczak and Ryszard Pawlowski on September 9, 1979 made the first ascent of the ice-covered northwest face of Rishi Kot (6236 meters, 20,460 feet). The 5000-foot- high wall is technically difficult, equal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Black Hills, Devil's Tower

Devils Tower. On July 23 Dave Lunn, Bruce Morris and I put up a new route on the long north side of the Devils Tower. The Route of All Evil ascended directly a crack to the left of a prominent fracture in a column which forms a ledge about 170 fee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Trisul

Trisul. Twelve girls of the National Cadet Corps (of India) were led on an expedition to Trisul by Colonel Jagjit Singh. Seven reached the summit.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South American, Chilean–Argentine Patagonia, Corrections and Additions to Accounts of Chilean-Argentine Patagonia in A.A.J., 1984

Corrections and Additions to Accounts of Chilean-Argentine Patagonia in A.A.J., 1984 With the climbing season in the Southern Hemisphere coming close to publication date, it is now necessary to add to and correct what was published last year. The ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Chamlang

Chamlang. A joint Korean-Nepalese expedition of five was led by Woo Jong-Duk. After establishing four camps and bivouacking, Woo, Bae Hyo- Soon and Huh Gung-Yeal, Ang Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa and Azuwa Sherpa got to the summit on October 10. They clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Central Andes, Cerro Pire and Other First Ascents, 1989

Cerro Pire and Other First Ascents, 1989. In early March of 1989, a large Argentine-Italian group, led jointly by A. Toujas and Francesco Santon, made the following first ascents: Cerro Pire (3850 meters, 12,631 feet), Cerro de la Natividad (3810 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Karakoram, Mamostong

Mamostong. Five climbers from Japan and eight from India left Leh by truck, crossed the Khardung La and arrived after a tough drive at the roadhead, Sasoma, in the Nubra valley. Instead of waiting for the ponies that were to carry our gear to Base...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Arches National Park

Arches National Park. In the spring of 1994, Frenchmen Estève Haston and Laurent Gousult climbed Thelma and Louise (III, 5.11+, 5 pitches) on the Southwest Tower of Organ Rock. This was the first free ascent of the popular tower that has at least ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Whyte

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount WhyteD.L. was soloing the north ridge of Mount Whyte on August 1, 1993, when he fell on fourth-class rock. He is unsure of how far he fell, but was in a lot of pain when he r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram Saser Kangri

Saser Kangri. A joint Indo-Taiwanese team led by Hukam Singh had eight Indian members, three of them women, and seven Taiwanese, of whom two were women. They got to the roadhead at Panamik on June 29. They set up Base Camp near the snout of the Ph...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Meru Central Summit (6450 m), an Attempt on the Shark's Fin

Meru Central Summit (6,450m), an attempt on the Shark’s Fin. A four-member Korean team led by Park Sik-Young attempted the east face of Meru Shark’s Fin. They established base camp at Tapovan on May 29, then subsequently two camps on the face, the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. Three Indian expeditions climbed Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) in the summer of 1992, all following the northwest ridge, the route pioneered by André Roch in 1947. The summit was reached on June 22 by leader Prasad S. Dhamal, Sur...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Arunachal Pradesh, Gorichen II and Gorichen East

Gorichen II and Gorichen East. Our expedition hoped to climb Kangto (7090 meters, 23,262 feet) in order to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the founding of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling. There was no ascent recorded of Kang...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, Logan Mountains, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Mt. Proboscis, Spanish Variation, Attempt

Mt. Proboscis, Attempt. It was reported that Spaniards Eduardo Martinez, Iñaki Fernández and Juan Vallejo attempted a new route on Mt. Proboscis. The trio managed 350 meters in 15 days; the climbing to their high point was A3. (Desnivel 146)