Fitz Roy, Czechoslovakian Route. In February, 2000, Alan Mullin (Scotland) and I began the Czechoslovakian Route on the west face of Fitz Roy from the Polish Camp, a bivy site situated just above the Torre Glacier in its lateral moraine. This site...
Two Pinnacles, Brown Cliffs Region. On July 4 we climbed two pinnacles we believe to be first ascents. Bob Smith, Ben Franklin, Chris Haig and I climbed the snow gullies to the ridge containing Bonney’s Peak 234 to 236 above the Brown Cliff lakes....
FALL ON ICE—ICE TOOLS PULLED OUT, UNROPED Quebec, Mont du Gros BrasOn February 22, J.S. (39) and M.L.(38) had finished the Gros Bras route at Weir and were packing up their gear when they decided to have a look at the rock climbs further along the...
Changabang Attempt. Jim Logan and I tried to make a post-monsoon climb of the Japanese route on the southwest ridge and face of Changabang, but turned back at 19,000 feet.Dakers Gowans
Lone Pine Peak, Bastile Buttress. To appreciate the size of Bastile Buttress, or even the immensity of Lone Pine Peak, one must personally come to grips with the terrain. The vast relief from the desert piedmont of the Owens Valley to the heights ...
Lettres de H.-B. de Saussure à sa femme, edited by E. Gaillard and H. F. Montagnier. 8vo., pp. 127, with frontispiece and notes. Chambéry : Librairie Dardel, 1937.With climbers what they have become, these letters are sweeter than mountaineering w...
Paine Oriental or Paine Chico. After being frustrated by bad weather in their attempt on a new route on the Torre Central del Paine, Italians S. Della Longa and G. Iezzi climbed the southeast ridge of Paine Oriental or Paine Chico (2460 meters, 80...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II) Attempt. A 7-man Israeli team was led by Doron Erel. They got to 7400 meters at Makalu La via the normal route on October 13 a month after they had started. Strong winds drove them down and the climbers were too tired to m...
Casualties on Popocatepetl. About 5000 persons attempted the ascent of Popocatepetl on the week end of 15 October 1950, hoping to attend a religious ceremony in which the banners of mountaineering clubs in North and South America and Europe were t...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Membership in this section is now 94. The gain of 12 since the last report is mainly due to members moving into the area. Our main activity has been a very full program of slide shows, with four meetings last spring ...
Manaslu Attempt. Our Manaslu climb was planned for immediately after our failed Makalu winter attempt to take advantage of our excellent acclimatization for an alpine-style try. Pole Andrzej Machnik and I had permission for a direct variant of the...
Cañón de la Huasteca, Arte de Malaria and Parque Nacional Basaseachic, free repeat of Subiendo el Arcoiris. On March 13 Eliza Kubarska and I made a rare repeat of the free-climbing testpiece, Subiendo el Arcoiris (Climbing the Rainbow; 300m, 5.13b...
Ravi Chandra Watershed, Kulu. Tony Smythe and I made for the Bara Bangahal region west of Kulu in May. Our objective was the unreconnoitred Ravi Chandra watershed and Smythe, our sirdar Wangyal and I climbed the highest peak (19,777 feet) at the h...
Churen Himal, Dhaula Group. (This account is included since the account in A.A.J., 1971 was very brief. — Editor.) We first hoped to climb Churen Himal (24,183 feet) in 1963 but could not get permission until August, 1970. Colonel J.O.M. Roberts a...
Peaks in the Cordón de la Jaula. The cordones (chains) of la Jaula and el Peine offer a number of unclimbed peaks close to Mendoza but they are difficult to approach because of narrow canyons. In early March, brothers Federico and Pablo Gonzalez e...
Kang Yisay. Kang Yisay (6400 meters, 20,998 feet) was climbed in August by Norwegian Olav Basen and T. Stromgren and in September by British S. Ehureuer, D. Galbraith, J.O. Neil, N. Richardson, I. Usuer, N. Adam, P.J. Jones, P. Cuesworth, P. Watki...
Aguja Rafael, Artibelleza, first free ascent. Patagonia is always a crapshoot. Windy Patagonia ended up having a spell of great weather this season. Within 10 days of leaving Denver, John Dickey and I climbed on Aguja Rafael via the Anglo-American...
El Gran Trono Blanco, VW Route, Baja California. On April 17 and 18, TM Herbert, Tom Condon and I began with two pitches up the “third class ramp , a jog left, and up some hard-to-protect F9 face climbing (three pitons). Then we went straight up e...
New Altitudes in the Northern Argentine Andes. Various peaks in this region have new officially corrected altitudes, generally lower than previously given ones. In Salta, we have new altitudes for the Volcán Socompa, 6031m; Volcán Salm, 6022m; Vol...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, FAILED TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn August 16, 1989, John Berry (19), Aaron Duncan (19), Quesnell Hartland (20), Dennis Schutzenhofer (39), and Erik Wobus (18) attempted the ...