Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains. Jon Krakauer. Lyons & Burford, New York, 1990. 186 pages. $17.95.The sport of mountaineering, Jon Krakauer writes in his introduction, “is wrapped in tales of audacity and disaster, that make oth...

Numbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-751959-7519761976USACAN.USACAN.Terrain1Rock13441158410Snow715108852Ice 11242River 5011Unknown 10200Ascent or DescentAscent1051123567Descent87587714Unknown 1358100Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock773...

NOT ANCHORED AT BELAY—MISCOMMUNICATION, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Slip O’ FoolsOn October 1, Daniel Gelsomini (29) fell 35 to 40 feet from the top of the first pitch of Slip O’ Fools at the north end of Cannon Cliff. He had reached t...

Ampato, Discovery of Mummies. Three mummies were found on Ampato (6288 m or 6310 m), making this the second highest tomb in the world, after Argentinian climbers discovered another mummy on the summit of Cerro Incahuasi (6610 m) in early 1996. Bef...

In November 2010 Belarusian Nikolay Bandalet attempted unclimbed Thulagi alpine style with two Russians, climbing the far right side of the west face of Manaslu to a ridge at 6,400m, then descending the opposite flank to the upper Thulagi Glacier ...

The Desert, Various Activity. Numerous towers were climbed south of Moab in Joe Wilson Canyon, which can be found just south of Wilson Arch from US 191 (approach between mile markers 99 and 100 on US 191). Tranquillity Tower’s Feeding the Rat (5.7...

Garumbar Glacier, Hispar Region. British climbers Dave Wilkinson, Tony Park, Bill Church and Brian Davison visited the Hispar region of the Karakoram. From the town of Hispar, they reconnoitered the Yengutz Har and the Garumbar Glaciers before dec...

ROCKFALLAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Patterson, East FaceOn September 5, a party of three started early for a two-day ascent of this alpine grade IV, 5.6 route. The route involves climbing a few pitches of glacier ice followed by mixed clim...

Monument Peak and Mt. Awesome, Ascents. In March, Willy Peabody and I climbed Monument Peak at the head of the Monument Glacier in the Chugach Range via the north ridge. We then made the second ascent of Mt. Awesome via the south face.Mike Wood, u...

P 9110 and P 9105, Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier, Wrangell Mountains. The Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier and the mountains surrounding it are unique. The upper glacier is a large semi-circular basin which flows off a ten-mile-long ridge, the south side of wh...

Spectre Peak, Haunted Wall. Wayne Wallace and I braved the round trip 50 miles of hiking and 20,000' of elevation gain to climb the south face of Spectre Peak in the Northern Pickets in August. This is in one of the most remote places in the Lower...

Glacier Dome, North Face. An expedition from Macugnaga was successful in climbing Glacier Dome for the first time by its north face. On October 10 Claudio Schranz, Marco Roncaglioni, Gianni Tagliaferri and Sherpa Gombu reached the summit (7193 met...

Southern Continental Icecap Crossing and Cape Horn. A French expedition, led by Jean-François Coste, set out in the last days of 1982 by yacht from the Argentine port, Mar del Plata, to reach, after a rough passage, the Fiordo Falcón via the Strai...

Cordillera Blanca. Giuseppe Dionosi (leader), Giuseppe Marchese, Luciano Ghigo, and Piero Fornelli, of the Italian Academic Alpine Club of Torino, made the following ascents in the Cordillera Blanca: Torino (18,088 feet) on July 3, Raimondi (17,86...

Peak Pobeda, Ascent, and American Snow Leopard. By reaching the summit of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) on August 22, during a two-man, alpine-style ascent, Andy Evans joined only a handful of non-Soviet mountaineers in the “Order of the Snow Leopard.” Thi...

Marmolejo, North Face. In 1982 we climbed a route on the north face of Marmolejo directly to the summit. Our new route in 1985 went much more to the right of the summit. On January 4 four of us left our Base Camp at 3500 meters, climbed penitentes...

LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn August 28, 1982, around noon, Brian Goldstein (27), Gordon Watters, James McCall and Robert Taylor left Paradise for Camp Muir, arriving a...

Northern Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents. Frank Van Herreweghe (Andorra) and Marc Gavalda put up two rock routes on minor peaks way to the left of the Obelisco and Halcon peaks: Kawsachun Coca (6b A1, 160m) on June 10, and Uk amaki (6b, 215m) on June...

FALLING ICE, POOR POSITIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn January 15, 1984, around 1345, Elizabeth Wheeler (24) was standing at the base of an ice fall watching two friends climb when a piece of ice weighing about 12 kilograms and falling...

IMPROPER RAPPEL ANCHOR PLACEMENT, INEXPERIENCE California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn January 12,1986, about 1330, the victim (18) and two friends set up a rappel site in Jumbo Rocks Corridor. The site was a 15 meter cliff on the southwest wa...