Mount Skarland, Hayes Group, Alaska Range. Early in April, Ed Johann, Terry Simonitch, Price Zimmermann and I were flown onto the upper portion of the Hayes Glacier from Delta Junction. Our pilot, Mike Stone of Wilson Air Service, did an excellent...

Mount Logan Tragedy, Warbler Ridge. All six of us were setting up camp the evening of July 7 on a large and apparently secure comice at 14,000 feet on the south-southeast ridge of Logan, the next ridge east of Hummingbird Ridge. The entire ridge w...

STRANDED, INADEQUATE KNOWLEDGE OF ROUTE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn the evening of June 21, 1994, the Teton County Sheriff’s Communications Center forwarded a 911 call to Ranger Renny Jackson at his local residence. The call ...

Huascarán. Our group made ascents of Huascarán by the Garganta route as follows: on August 21 José Luis Sesma, José Errasti and I; on August 22 Maite Bacaicoa and Angel Rosen; on August 23 José Ignacio Artarez, Elías Ruis de Alegría, the Peruvian ...

Rocky Mountain National Park, Enchainment. In August, Mike Pennings and I left the Longs Peak parking lot at 3 a.m. and climbed Pervertical Sanctuary (5.10) on the Diamond. We then dropped over the west side of Longs and soloed the North Ridge of ...

Mount Logan Map, Research and Reference Folio. G. Holds worth and B. Sawyer. Arctic Institute of North America, 2500 University Drive NW, Calgary AB T2N 1N4, Canada, 1993. Two sheets 50cm x 66cm, printed in color on four sides of poster-grade pape...

East Fuller Butte, Fear of Flying. In September John Stoddard and I climbed this route between the Southeast Face and the Songs to a Morning Star routes. The route climbs the 350-foot-high thin crack just to the left of the Songs route. A small le...

Longs Peak, Solo Winter Ascent of the East Face. From January 13 to 17, 1983 I made the first solo winter ascent of the Lower East Face-Diamond combination on Longs Peak. On the Lower East Face I climbed the Gray Pillar (IV, 5.9, A4) up to Broadwa...

Boom Mountain, North Face. Joe Farrand and I started above the east end of Boom Lake, on easy quartzite just left of a deep gully. After a few hundred feet we took to the gully bed, until it steepened to a wet overhanging corner. A long traverse r...

Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) Attempt. Our team on Hidden Peak included Georgie Powers, Carlos Buhler, Mark Newcomb, Marc Appling, Greg Collins and me. The trek to Base Camp started in Dassu and went smoothly. We reached Base Camp on August 4. After ...

Langtang Himal. A British expedition visited the Langtang Himal for botanical and mountaineering reasons. Led by Viscount Glentworth, they were joined at least for some of the time by Alfred Gregory and Colonel Charles Wylie. They attempted severa...

Colorado, Conundrum Creek Valley. On September 8, Jonathan Hough, David Church, Jon Swanson, Robert Farley, and Susan Greene (19) had attempted Castle Peak (14,259 ft.). They were turned back at 13,800 by severe winds and approaching thunderstorms...

Trekant Basin, Staunings Alps, Northeast Greenland. Bruno Friedrich, Christoph Schwarz, Toni Mayer and I as leader were in the basin of the Trekant Glacier, east of Alpefjord in the Staunings Alps, from July 28 to August 18. Base Camp was on the t...

Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route. Jeff Hansell and I made this new route (IV 5.9) on September 10,2001. Little Big Chief Mountain is located in the seldom-visited Summit Chief Valley in the North Central Cascades. The Summit Chief Valley is...

PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mt. McKinley, West ButtressWhile the incident with Andrews was unfolding at 13,500 feet, there was another incident developing at high camp—17,200 feet. The Black Ice Expedition, consisting of Sacha Friedlin (23) and Marie C...

Lhotse, Winter Attempt. A Swiss expedition to Lhotse establised Base Camp on November 16 at 17,400 feet at the foot of Island Peak. The expedition, led by Joseph Fauchère, had eight members and was attempting the southeast face. They abandoned the...

Finger of Fate, South Face. In mid-October 1966, Fred Dunham, Dave Mahre, Tom Hargis and I climbed the 700-foot south face of this prominent spire on the ridge connecting Chimney Rock’s north and main peaks. We reached the glacial cirque below the...

Baruntse. A Japanese expedition from Utsunomiya University led by Tetsuyo Saito successfully climbed the south ridge of Baruntse, the first-ascent route. The summit (7220 meters, 23,688 feet) was reached on September 26 by Noriaki Ujiie, Motoi Nag...

Cerro Presidente, Attempt and Tragedy. On September 25 at 8:30 a.m., Yossi Brain and a young Canadian woman, Dana Witzel, were killed in a slab avalanche on Cerro Presidente (5700m) in the Apolobamba range of the Andes. Four of us, Yossi, Dana, Er...

Goode Mountain, Megalodon (east) Ridge. After speaking with alpinists who had eyed or attempted Goode’s east ridge, and after finding recent bail slings on an attempt myself, I couldn’t get the climb out of my mind. I described the monster to Sol ...