Sorcerer Needle. The higher, sharp spire immediately east of the Wizard. First ascent, April 11, via the west face above the Wizard-Sorcerer notch. Rappel 75 feet from the summit of the Wizard into the high, western notch; two leads over steep, br...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. 1989 saw the direction and function of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club change noticeably. In the spring the D.M.C. continued to offer comprehensive rock-climbing instruction to Dartmouth students and community memb...
Alto Ritacuba and Other Peaks, Cordillera Oriental. Two expeditions from our club were active in the northern portion of the Cocuy or Güicán district. On December 23, 1977, Rosa Pabón and I ascended Alto Ritacuba, highest in the entire range (5464...
Noel Peak, West Face and Mt. Ratz, West Face. Fred Beckey, Dave Creeden, and I arrived in Petersburg May 24 at the tail end of a rare month-long streak of excellent weather, hoping to access a group of three 10,000-foot peaks approximately 50 mile...
Gauri Sankar, Rolwaling Himalaya. Mr. Ian Clough was kind enough to send the Editor a detailed account of the British expedition led by Don Whillans; a summary follows. The other members of this light expedition were Dennis Gray, Terry Burnell, Ia...
The Mummer, Paine Group. Phillip Stuart Dawson and I made the first ascent of the Mummer on December 7, 1976 by a route on the southwest face above the Mummer Cuerno Segundo (or Cuerno Norte) col. From a snow cave at the base of the rock, we fixed...
Mount Formidable, Southwest Ridge. This route had been eyed by numerous climbing parties over the past several years, but never tackled because of the indirect and brush-cluttered approach route. From road’s end on the Cascade River South Fork, an...
Toqllaraju, West Face, Huciscarán, East Face, San Juan, South Ridge and Other Peaks. During May, Abigail Fisher, Brad White, Robert Blatherwick and the Peruvian Hugo Colonia made ascents of Vallunaraju and Chopicalqui by the normal routes and a fi...
Regal Mountain, Peak 12,454', Parka Peak, Rime Peak. On May 9, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters flew Dawn Groth, Ben Still, Kathy Still, Wayne Todd, Cory Hinds, Elena Hinds and me to 9,000 feet on the upper Nabesna Glacier below Regal Mountai...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, New Routes. In January a group of six climbed in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Our leader, George Montopoli, had been in the area three previous times and knew the mechanics. His friendship with the people of San ...
Taulliraju, Southwest Face, 1980. A strong Italian expedition in August 1980 climbed a new route on the left buttress of the southwest face of Taulliraju (5830 meters, 19,128 feet). The climbing was of great difficulty. They fixed rope on the firs...
Mount Everest, Summer Attempts. While the monsoon weather was dumping large amounts of snow on the mountain, three summer attempts were made from Tibet: one by a Swiss expedition and two by small American teams. None were successful. American Davi...
Geographical note: While the well-known peaks in Denali National Park are often called “the Alaska Range,” these peaks form just one part of the immense Alaska Range, which contains many significant subranges, including the Hayes and Delta ranges,...
EXPOSURE, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Longs PeakIn December 1981, James Duffy (24) froze to death during a blizzard on Longs Peak. His companion, Michael O’Donnell (25), descended the mountain safely earlier. (Source: The New York Times, De...
Mulkila V Attempt. In late July we left the small village of Darcha to attempt Mulkila V (20,000 feet). After a three-day approach up the Milang valley, on August 1 Base Camp was established at 13,800 feet at the foot of the Milang Glacier. Camp I...
Traverse of the Himalaya. Bachendri Pal (the first Indian woman to climb Everest and a member of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation) led the Indian Women’s First Trans-Himalayan Journey, which made a successful traverse of the entire Himalayan c...
King-on-a-Throne, Monument Valley. A perpendicular, forked-summit tower, standing about 400 feet above the desert floor, had long intrigued me. A roadside marker points to it, saying: “King-on-a-Throne.” Springtime winds blasted us off the tower a...
SLIP ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount JohnsonAt 0700 on July 10, 1983, a group of ten climbers left a camp site five kilometers from South Lake to climb Mount Johnson.At 0730 crampons were put on prior to starting up a hard snow slope. The g...
Central Chile. A German expedition of the Alpine Arbeitsgemeinschaft made the first ascent of Cerro Punta Hoff (16,520 feet) in the Alto de Yeso region on the Argentine frontier early in 1962. The Germans, Percy Stulz and Fritz Uhlig, and the Chil...
Changabang. Andrew Rothfield, Peter Allen, Max Berry, Paul Anderson, Malcolm Noble, John Dunlop, Patrick Miller, Timothy Hughes and I were on Changabang during the post-monsoon period. We spent eight days from Lata, with 20 porters and 70 goats, t...