Gephang Goh, Attempt. A British expedition led by Ian Ford attempted Gephang Goh (5870m) in the Lahaul area in July-August, reaching 5500 meters. Progress was too slow due to difficult/dangerous crevasses.Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himal...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. Two Indian expeditions are said to have successfully climbed Kamet and Abi Gamin. The leaders were Flight Lieutenant A. Choudhary and Dr. D.T. Kulkarni. Details are lacking.
The Mole, Cashmere Crags. Bob Lewis and I climbed a new route on the Mole, the northeast face, during this past summer. The route begins on the north side of the great chockstone and involves a long class-6 crack-series to the first break in this ...
Central Paine Tower, Winter Attempt. Spaniards José Luis Gallego and Raúl García were in the Paine Towers from May 1 to June 6. They attempted to climb the east face of the Torre Central despite low temperatures and high winds. They climbed 1100 m...
Baruntse. Our expedition was a commercial one. The members had a wide variety of experience in the mountains. The climbing team of nine was accompanied to Base Camp by ten trekkers. We flew to Lukla on April 19 and headed up the Hinku valley. Afte...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PANIC, INEXPERIENCE Mississippi, Tishomingo State ParkOn March 26, 1988, around 1600, Robert L. Breland (c. 20) sprained his left ankle as the result of a ten meter unroped fall on rock at Tishomingo State Park, Mis...
Peaks in Cordillera Vilcanota. The second group of the Munich Andean Trip had as members Angelika Forster, Sigfried Völkl, George Ashton, Reinhard Vogl and me. We made the following ascents: Campa I (17,995 feet) by all on August 23; P 5475 (17,96...
Yunnan Province, Various Ascents. In April, I traveled to northwest Yunnan province and made my way to the town of Dechin by public bus. From April 25-27, I recced the approach to Baima Shan, an unclimbed peak of around 5500 meters on the west sid...
The Ascent of Manaslu in Photographs. The Japanese expeditions of 1952 to 1956, by Takayoshi Yoda. Tokio: The Maiinichi Newspapers. 186 photographs, 9 in color. Price Yen 1,000. (Charles E. Tuttle, Rutland, Yt. $5.00.)Seldom has a mountaineering p...
Montana, Glacier National Park—On June 19, 1954, Miss Claudia Keil (17) and two companions were returning from an ascent of Mt. Altyn when an accident occurred. They were approximately one-quarter of the way down when Miss Keil stepped out on a sn...
Lake Powell Area, Tower Butte, West Face. Davy Insley and Jason Keith first ascended this remote butte. Approach by boat from Wahweap Marina near Glen Canyon Dam on Lake Powell. Proceed uplake to a campsite a short ways up Labyrinth Canyon. Hike s...
White Needle. Our expedition was composed of Gorka Estomés, Tomás Izco, José Luis Pérez, Mikel Repáraz, Pedro Tous and me as leader. On July 10, we crossed the Suru River and placed Base Camp at 4000 meters in the valley of the Shafat Glacier. On ...
Lhotse, South Face Attempt. A very strong Italian national expedition failed to climb the south face of Lhotse. The leader was Riccardo Cassin and members were Ignazio Piussi, Reinhold Messner, Franco Gugiatti, Gigi Alippi, Sereno Barbacetto, Aldo...
Gasherbrum IV, northwest ridge to north summit. The Spanish team of Alberto Iñurrategi, Ferrári Latorre, José Carlos Tamayo, Juan Vallejo, and Miguel Zabalza climbed the northwest ridge of 7,925m Gasherbrum IV (Child-Hargis-Macartney-Snape, 1986),...
FALL ON ROCK, HEAVY PACKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaOn August 28,1994, Stan and Pam were attempting the seven-pitch, 5.8 A1 route “Corkscrew” on Mt. Yamnuska, and had completed the first two pitches. Pam was seconding the third pitch w...
Everest Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Austrians Wastl Wörgötter, Dr. Andreas Paul, Ingeborg Aufschnaiter, Harald Benzl, Johann Pree, Josef Inhöger, Martin Hornegger, Johann-Georg Bachmair, and me as leader, Germans Dr. Karl W...
Attempt on Queen Mary; other St. Elias Peaks. As seasonal employees of the Icefield Ranges Research Project, Alex Bittenbender, Don Stockard and I dug snow-sample pits in record time to allow time-off for climbing. When Peter Dodds, Will Harrison ...
Chiring We (6,599m), second ascent. Chiring We is situated at the head of the Kalabaland glacier and is not frequently visited by mountaineers. The first ascent was achieved in 1979 by a team from Mumbai under the leadership of Harish Kapadia. The...
Torres del Paine National Park, Rules and Regulations. Officially, a special foreigners-only climbing fee of $100 must be paid at the administration office when one enters Torres del Paine National Park. However, we would warn our readers that str...
INTOXICATION – FALL ON ROCK, FREE SOLO CLIMBINGWest Virginia, New River Gorge National RiverIn early July about 11:45 a.m., Charles G. Fredricks Jr. (39) fell while free solo climbing Angel’s Arete (5.10) in the Bridge Buttress area. National Park...