Nameless Tower, Western Buttress, Trango Towers. Right after our attempt on the south face of Lhotse, Frenchman Michel Fouquet and I joined Swiss Michel Piola and Frenchman Patrick Delale in Skardu on May 24. With mountain bicycles, we got to Base...
Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Raymond Lambert and his wife Annette climbed Cotopaxi (19,848 feet) on March 9, 1957 and Chimbora2o (20,702 feet) on March 17. This was the first time that a woman had ever climbed either of these peaks.
Arwa Spire, East Summit, First Ascent. In October, a British expedition led by Kenton Cool made the first ascent of the Arwa Spire’s East Summit (6193m) via the Northeast Ridge (TD+ WI4 5.9, 2000m). Andy Benson and Pete Benson climbed the route on...
Pumori. The members of our expedition were Masayoshi Utsumi, Toshiaki Kobayashi, Toshiyuki Hayakawa, Hisao Tatsukawa, Yongjong An, Mrs. Suzue Terasaki, Miss Ritsuko Sakai and I as leader. This was the second time I had climbed the mountain, having...
Ketil and Other Peaks, Tasermiut Fjord. During August a group of French climbers led by F. Guillot explored peaks around Koromint valley (Kimukât on the 250,000 map). We arrived at Narsarssuaq airport on July 23, helicoptered to Nanortalik and tra...
Khrebet Kyokkiar and Gory Sarybeles, seven first ascents. After visiting this interesting and unexplored range in 2001, I organized another expedition in August, 2002. Karl Baker, John Cuthbert, Graham Sutton, and I (David Gerrard, as leader) made...
Annapurna, Northwest Buttress Attempt. An expedition of six Austrians was led by Hubert Fritzenwallner. On October 13, they reached a high point of 6120 meters on the northwest buttress.Elizabeth Hawley
International Makalu Expedition. Our expedition had as main objectives the fourth ascent of Makalu (27,825 feet) by the 10,000-foot- high south face without oxygen with a minimum of Sherpas during the inhospitable post-monsoon season. Members were...
The Outdoor Athlete: Total Training for Outdoor Performance. Steve Ilg. Cordillera Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1987. 265 pages, 95 black and white photographs, 7 drawings, appendix, glossary, bibliography. $12.95 (paper).There is nothing new about...
FALL ON ROCK, POOR COMMUNICATION, INADEQUATE BELAY - DISTRACTEDKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyOn March 21,I took a lead fall, landing at the base of the climb Suppress the Rage (5.12a) located at the Sunny Side. I was at the second-to-last ...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, German and Pakistani Success. I organized this small expedition but gave the leadership over to German Dr. Ekkert Gundelach. The other members were Swiss Diego Wellig, Philipp Zehnder and Peter Schwitter. They reached Ba...
Obra Valley, Pt. 5,760m attempt; Pt. 5,165m. In the autumn a four-member team from the Alpine Club became the first climbers to explore the head of the little-known Obra Valley, an area of sub-6,000m peaks west of the Bandarpunch-Swargarohini grou...
California, Berkeley—On March 11, 1956 a group of about 15 climbers that included experienced men as well as novices was practicing lower belaying at Indian Rock under the direction of the outing leader. The belayer was at ground level using a sta...
Mount Torbert, Alaska Range. On the afternoon of May 14 John Gar- dey, Dr. George Wichman, Dr. Rod Wilson, and I were flown in the 100 miles from Anchorage by Lowell Thomas, Jr. in his Cessna 180 to a point on the Triumvirate Glacier at 4000 feet,...
STRANDED—OUT OF FOOD, WEATHER California, Yosemite Valley, Magic MushroomOn April 24, 1994, Ken Bokelund's (28) wife reported to the NPS that he and Kevin Andrews (30) were one day overdue from climbing the Magic Mushroom route (VI 5.10 A4) on El ...
Trekking Mount Everest. Ryohei Uchida. Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1991. 128 pages, 257 color photographs, 3 sketch maps. $16.95. Ryohei Uchida is a master photographer. He has been a professional for 21 years and has visited Nepal thirty time...
Bear Mountain, North Face. After several days of trail and of vicious brush from our Beaver Creek-Perry Creek approach, Jeff Thomas, Ed Newville, Shari Kearney and I scrutinized Bear’s north face. We spotted a long 2000-foot buttress west of Becke...
FALLING ROCK—Ontario, Bon Echo. Skip King and John Hammond were climbing on the Pinnacle at Bon Echo on May 14. At the top, King pulled a loose block from beneath a tree above the two protection pins, and was hit on the head and right wrist as it ...
Mana Northwest, Southwest Ridge. An Indo-Japanese Expedition (Indo-Tibet Border Police and Himalayan Association of Japan), led by S. D. Sharma and Hideyuki Uematsu, climbed Mana Northwest (7092m) in August. Summit was reached on August 18 and Aug...
Lone Peak, Direct West Face, Wasatch Mountains. In the past the lower slabs had repelled attempts at a direct ascent of the west face of Lone Peak, but the main subject of conjecture was how to solve a great overhanging band about two-thirds of th...