Aconcagua, Southeast Ridge. Mauricio Fernández and Carlos Dominguez of Mendoza reached the base of the south face of Aconcagua and camped at the Plaza Francia. After acclimatizing, they climbed to a gap at 5000 meters and descended east from the l...
On June 7, Belgian climber Joris Van Reeth of Borgerhout (27) was killed in a fall while climbing the Cassin Ridge. He was leading a highly technical section of the route known as the Japanese Couloir when his anchor appeared to fail and he fell...
Shivling’s East RidgeLight is right: A rapid alpine-style second ascent of a Garhwal testpiece by Mark RicheySwinging in space 7,000 feet above the Tapovan meadows, I reached down and touched my leg. It felt as if I had taken a full swing from a b...
Denbor Brakk, west face, Dancer in the Dark. In July Marcin Tomaszewski and I, both from Poland, arrived in the Nangma Valley. First we aimed for the west face of Amin Brakk. This wall harbours a couple of A5 routes and is said to be 1,600 meters ...
Inspired by impressive photographs of Pik Granitsa, provided by Paul Knott, who visited this area in 2005 (AAJ 2006), Michal Kasprowicz, Wojtek Ryczer, and I attempted peaks around the head of the Fersmana Glacier in the central section of the Wes...
Mountain Names. Robert Hixson Julyan. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1984. 233 pages, black and white illustrations. $11.95, Cloth; $8.95, Paper.Being a trivia buff, and a climber, I was very happy to receive a copy of Mountain Names for Christmas rec...
Nanga Parbat (8,126m), new route on Diamir Face. Of the five expeditions to Nanga Parbat, only two were successful and a total of 14 climbers reached the summit, bringing the total number of ascents of the mountain to 216 from 1953 up to its Golde...
La Barre des Écrins, by Henri Isselin. 229 pages, with bibliography, 2 orographie maps, 2 sketches, and 18 photographs. Paris 8c Grenoble: Arthaud, 1954.Henri Isselin says in his preface that his book is just a tale of the many ties which bind men...
K2’s West FaceTeruo Matsuura, Waseda University Alpine Club, JapanIn THE PAST, four parties have succeeded in climbing K2, three by the Abruzzi Ridge; only an American party climbed the northeast ridge, though they too traversed to the southeast r...
1951-20072008TotalTotalGeographicalNumber ofPersonsNumber ofPersonsDistrictsAccidentsDeathsInvolvedAccidentsDeathsInvolvedCANADA*Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arctic8221...
The Gunks Guide: Rock Climbs in the Shawangunks of New York. Todd Swain. Alpine Diversions, New Paltz, 1986. 318 pages, black and white photographs, sketch maps. $20.00 (paper).The Shawangunks is the finest rock climbing area in the Eastern United...
Khan Tengri, north face, ascent. From August 20 to 29 Pavel Shabalin and Ilyas Tukhvatullin made the first two-man ascent of the prestigious north face of Khan Tengri (6,995m) above the northern Inylchek Glacier. The pair climbed the central sect...
Sierra Club. This year Sierra Club climbers roamed many of the great mountain areas of the world in search of climbing. Foremost was an attempt on Rakaposhi (7790 meters) in the Karakoram by a British-American party, including Club members Richard...
Meru Central Summit (6,450m), an attempt on the Shark’s Fin. Conrad Anker, Doug Chabot, and I arrived in Delhi in late August on our way to attempt Meru’s conspicuous Shark’s Fin. Though this summit had been reached by the prolific Russian alpinis...
Bhagirathi III. Micha Miller and I climbed Bhagirathi alpine-style by the Scottish route, using no fixed rope, in nine days with perfect weather. We spent two more days rappelling the route. We had originally hoped to do the Spanish route, but poo...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE PULLS THROUGH BELAY DEVICENorth Carolina, Hawksbill Mountain, Linville Gorge WildernessOn September 20, AG (26) and AA (30) were climbing at the “Fischesser Wall,”a little known sport climbing area on the upper wall of Hawksbill...
Desert Rock: A Climber’s Guide to the Canyon Country of the American Southwest Desert. Eric Bjømstad. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988. 453 pages, black-and-white photographs, topos, maps. $25.00 (paper).Those who have climbed in the American desert...
Beka Brakai Chhok, attempt; Wahine (5,820m), first ascent. In June and July 2007, Lydia Bradey and I attempted the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6,940m) in the Batura massif. Arriving in Pakistan in early June, we spent four days walking into...
Tibet, tips on organizing a climbing trip. All peaks over 5,500 meters in Tibet officially require a climbing permit, which be issued by the Chinese Tibetan Mountaineering Association. CTMA is the government organization authorized to oversee moun...
After Thin AirThe legacy of the 1996 Mount Everest tragedyby Michael ChesslerYou already know the names of the mountain and the climbers. Climbing mania like this had never happened before. It started with what was supposed to be a routine guided ...