Book Reviews AAJ
François Matthes and the Marks of Time, Yosemite and the High Sierra

François Matthes and the Marks of Time. Yosemite and the High Sierra. Edited by Fritiof Fryxell. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1962. 189 pages; ills. Price $7.50.François Matthes knew mountains with an understanding that few of us can ever attain. T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Quebrada Honda, Cordillera Blanca

Quebrada Honda, Cordillera Blanca. A party from Johannesburg, South Africa, consisting of J. H. Graafland, Frank Kleine, F. G. Petousis and me, spent four weeks in this area. Base Camp was at Pucaranracocha. On July 13 all members walked up the pe...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Sierra Nevada, Banner Peak

California, Sierra Nevada, Banner Peak. (See accident report.) The rockfall, followed by Elliotts moans, alerted Ellena and climber Bill Sundlad who was returning from Mt. Ritter. After locating Elliott, they stripped themselves of available cloth...


Notes AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota and Carabaya, Note on Map of the Marcapata Valley

Note on Map of the Marcapata Valley. The little map of the Marcapata Valley is a highly preliminary form of an extension of Carta Nacional 1:200,000, sheet 14 j (Sicuani) of 1939/40, intended for illustration of the preceding account and of an ear...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock—Dislodged By Day-Pack, Poor Position, California, Yosemite Valley, Cathedral Rocks

FALLING ROCK- DISLODGED BY DAY-PACK, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Cathedral RocksOn August 12, Sarah Sand (59) and eight friends started up the Gunsight, the class 4-5 gully between Middle and Lower Cathedral Rocks. David (58), the le...


Feature Article AAJ
The Grand Teton

The Grand TetonKenneth A. HendersonTHE Grand Teton, the landmark of the fur traders in the last century and the inspiration of travelers to the Yellowstone, stood solitary and aloof for many years. The first ascent was made by a comparatively easy...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, East McMillan Spire, North Buttress, Southern Pickets

East McMillan Spire, North Buttress, Southern Pickets. From Terror Basin, Rachel Cox and I walked north along the Terror Basin-Azure Lake divide. Where this ridge steepens and merges with the east ridge of McMillan Spire, a horizontal ledge leads ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Warbonnet Peak, the Neu Low

Warbonnet Peak, The Neu Low. Climbing in the Alps is Alpinism; climbing in the Andes is Andinism, climbing in the Rockies is, therefore, Rockonism. Roconismo (the Spanish version is catchier, sexier, and more memorable) is an emerging movement by ...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The DMC had several very active, enjoyable years in 1977 and 1976, with members climbing well and frequently in New England and elsewhere in the world. In New England, Dartmouth climbers made several first ascents, a...


Feature Article ANAM
Equipment Testing

EQUIPMENT TESTINGDue to poor conditions of weather the Oregon chapter was not able to complete its series of tests last year. It is anticipated that there will be a report in next year’s report.Mr. John Armitage, an AAC member presently studying i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to Summit Gendarme, and Various Activity

Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to summit gendarme, and various activity. Located west of the Great Gorge and unnamed on most maps, the Backside Glacier affords access to several large peaks by their comparatively tame western ramparts. The lower-angled...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Fall, Inadequate Equipment, Quebec, Charlevoix Mountains, Montagne Blanche

AVALANCHE, FALL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Quebec, Charlevoix Mountains, Montagne BlancheAt 1515 on March 3, 1985, a party of experienced skiers was approaching base camp at the end of a tour around Montagne Blanche. They were on a ski-mountaineering t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Kirti Stambh Ascent and Kharchakund Attempt, Gangotri Region

Kirti Stambh Ascent and Kharchakund Attempt, Gangotri Region. Our expedition consisted of Rick Allen, Ernie McGlashan, Malcolm McCullough, Beverley Hurwood and me as leader. We hoped to make the second ascent of Kharchakund (6612 meters, 21,693 fe...


In Memoriam AAJ
Anthony Fiala, 1869-1950

ANTHONY FIALA1869–1950While the genesis of the American Alpine Club was taking place in 1902, Anthony Fiala was busy putting the final touches on preparations for the Ziegler Polar Expedition, which had as its objective the attainment of the North...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, The Bugaboos, Bugaboo-Pigeon-South Howser-Snowpatch Enchainment

Bugaboo-Pigeon-South Howser-Snowpatch enchainment. I realized I was super-anxious to climb in the Bugaboos when I arrived at the Applebee Campground five days before my partner was scheduled to arrive. I figured I would keep myself busy hiking aro...


In Memoriam AAJ
Boyd N. Everett, Jr., 1933-1969

BOYD N. EVERETT, JR.1933 - 1969Boyd Everett lived for the mountains. He was happiest, most alive, and easiest when he was in them. During his thirty-five years he climbed the four highest peaks in North America and a wide range of other mountains,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades Canada, British Columbia, North Cascades

It’s been a slow few years in the mountains of southwestern British Columbia. There is energy and talent concentrated in the Vancouver-Squamish-Whistler-Pemberton corridor, but the focus remains at Squamish. When these talented climbers focus o...

| Published 2009 | Author Drew Brayshaw, Canada, AAC


Book Reviews AAJ
The Steepest Mountain: The New Zealand Andes Expedition, 1960

The Steepest Mountain: The New Zealand Andes Expedition, I960, by Lloyd E. Warburton. R. J. Cuthill, Publisher, New Zealand, 1964. 136 pp. Illustrations. $3.50.Nevado Cayesh had been described as "the steepest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca and...


Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. After many years of waiting, and much work, the Mountaineering Section completed its publication of its Climbers Guide to Seneca Rocks. Because of the increasing popularity of climbing and the subsequent need for mo...


Notes AAJ
Jensenland, Historical Timeline of the Search for the Northernmost Point of Land on Earth

Jensenland, historical timeline of the search for the northernmost point of land on Earth. Based on the results from the 1996 American Top Of The World Expedition (co-leaders Ken Zerbst and myself [editor’s note: this is the expedition mentioned b...