FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite National ParkOn September 7, 1991, John Medlock (28) was lead climbing the Nutcracker route on Manure Pile Buttress and was about 120 feet off the ground going around a large rock horn when h...
Access issues. In the middle of 2007 the Egyptian Tourism Ministry announced that they were banning climbing in Sinai, which would have effectively stopped all climbing in Egypt. However, by late autumn this had been rescinded and Dave Lucas made ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake CragD.L. was leading a pitch at the Back of the Lake Crag on June 6, 1993 when he fell. His protection pulled, and he hit the ground, sustaining a compound ...
Nanda Devi Sanctuary, investigative expedition. The president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, N Vohra, organized an expedition in June-July 2001 to investigate whether the Sanctuary should be opened to climbers, trekkers, and scientific r...
Chau Chau Kang Nilda, Southeast Ridge. A ten-member expedition from Calcutta was led by Alok Basu. On September 15, Miss Yana Banerjee-Bey, Apu Chatterjee, Sumit Data, Mrs. Kalpana Ghosh, Tapo Nayan Ghosh, Chan- chal Hazra, Amaresh Malakar, and hi...
Spantik, new route on northwest face. Koreans Kim Hyung-il, Kim Pal-bong, and Min Jun- young completed a new route on the northwest face of Spantik (7,027m) in mid-July. The Korean route, which they graded VI WI4 M8, ascends steep snow to a diffic...
Thalay Sagar, north face, new route. A Bulgarian team tackled the unclimbed right side of the face, well right of the 1999 Russian Direct and in the same vicinity as the line attempted by Lindblade and Whimp in 1996. They climbed in capsule style ...
Nilkanth Attempt. In October, four of us Scots attempted the long, challenging southeast ridge of Nilkanth (6596 meters, 21,640 feet), previously tried by British and American expeditions. From Advance Base at 5000 meters, south of the ridge, we c...
The Moated Mountain, by Showell Styles. London: Hurst and Blackett, 1955. 255 pages; ills.; diagrams; endpaper map. Price 18 s.Showell Styles is also known as Glyn Carr, author of "Murder on the Matterhorn," and other detective stories and books o...
Monte Parry. Chileans Aldo Boitano, Guillermo Mascaró, Maurico Rojas, Renzo Uccelli and José Vélez were taken by the navy icebreaker Piloto Pardo from Punta Arenas to a Chilean base on Deception Island and thence by military helicopter for a 15-da...
Rocky Mountains of Canada1944 marks the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Mt. Temple, in 1894, by the guideless party of S.E.S. Allen, L. F. Fris sell and W. D. Wilcox. This was the first ascent of a peak of the Canadian Rocky Mountain above...
Polar Sun Spire, North Face. The Great and Secret Show (VII 5.11 A4 WI3) on Polar Sun Spire rises up the 4,400-foot north face of Polar Sun Spire. Mark Synnott, Jeff Chapman, and Warren Hollinger established 1,000 feet of fixed line in three long ...
Exploring the Unknown, Historic Diaries of Bradford Washburn’s Alaska/Yukon Expeditions. Bradford Washburn, edited by Lew Freedman. Kenmore, Washington: Epicenter Press, 2001.128 pages, softcover. $24.95.This book contains excerpts from the diarie...
Vampire Peaks, The Vampire Spire, First Ascent. During June, 1994, in the Vampire Peaks of the Northwest Territories, Jeff Hollenbaugh and I, accompanied by photographer Greg Epperson, climbed a granite spire that we dubbed the Vampire Spire. Our ...
FALL ON ICE AND FROZEN MOSS, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Black DikeThe ice on the Black Dike did not reach all the way to the top of the route on this Thanksgiving Day, November 23. Fred Abraham (35) was forced to clim...
Germans David Goettler, Stefan Glowacz, and Klaus Fengler hoped to climb a new line on the southwest face. Approaching via the Tengmarnag Gorge, they established Camp 2, in early May, at 5,050m at the foot of the face. Above, unconsolidated loose ...
Haagenshlong Tower, First Ascent, Previously Unreported. Haagenshlong Tower is on the north side of Buckhorn Wash on the comer wall joining Buckhorn Wash and Calf Canyon. The first ascent of the tower was made by the route of the same name, Haagen...
Laila Attempt. Kenzo Yamada, Yasuhiro Ohta, Kiyoshi Harada, Emiko Abe, Michio Noguchi, Masahiko Onda, Takashi Masude and I as leader attempted Laila (6986 meters, 22,921 feet), which rises above the Chogo Lungma Glacier. We left Skardu on July 19,...
FALL IN CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Jasper National Park, Athabasca-Andromeda GlacierOn September 5, P.P. and A.B. departed the climber’s parking lot below Mount Athabasca at 0430 to climb Mount Athabasca via the Athab...
Mt. Fairweather, Winter Ascent. On February 15, Nancy Juergens and I were landed in the foam of heavy surf approximately three miles south of Cape Fairweather. At low tide on the following day, our partners, Jeff Carter and Josephine Warden, joine...