WEATHER, FALL INTO CREVASSE - SNOW BRIDGE FAILEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, International MountainI was guiding two clients on a ski mountaineering traverse from the Bugaboos to Rogers Pass with the help of an assistant guide. On April 16...
It was Stuart McAleese and my 15th day climbing on the face. The December winds regularly gusted 100mph. The climbing, 800m above the glacier, was becoming markedly easier. Our summit was tantalizingly close. One good day and only 300m of 35° sn...
DAKERS Gowans woke Keith )Hansen and me at one A.M. The weather is clear. After the normal struggle with stiff boots, we groggily emerge to find a magnificent aurora glowing incandescently in the northern sky. A good omen, I hope; yet no soon...
The last few yards my screaming lungs could not keep up as I raced to the summit snow, capping Mount Hunter. Hunter, little brother to Mount McKinley, towered over a vast landscape of rock and snow. McKinley would have bested Hunter by 600...
In September our Czech-Slovak expedition visited two areas of the southern Altai. We first traveled to the Taban Bogdo on the border with northwest Mongolia. Immediately north of Huiten, which forms the triple border point of Russia, Mongolia, and...
FALL ON VERGLASS, NO PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, TetonsOn August 4, 1988, 1330, Frank Richardson (45) was leading his two sons, Clark and Brad, up the Owen-Spaulding route on the Grand Teton. All three successfully climbed the double chimney...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. The climbers of our expedition were Miss Bachendri Pal, leader, Pritam Bhowmik, Robindra Kumar Bhuyan, Miss Manika Biswas, Mala Honati, Nabender Singh, Madan Singh Gosain, Parvaz Kapadia, Rajendra Singh Pal, Nirmal Pandey, A.K...
The Road to Siulá ChicoManfred Sturm, Sektion Oberland, Deutscher AlpenvereinTranslated by H. Adams CarterON OUR return to Munich in 1961 from our first Andean expedition, the desire to climb again in South America was not particularly great. Whil...
JOHN FRANKLIN NOXON1928-1985I met John Noxon in 1950 at a recruiting meeting of the Harvard Mountaineering Club. John was a first year graduate student in Physics with a developed love of hiking and winter mountaineering in New England. We climbed...
Eiffel Tower. In the summer of 1951 I climbed Eiffel Peak in the Canadian Rockies, primarily for the view and the pictures that I might get. From the summit I was surprised to look across at a sheer tower, several feet lower than the peak and sepa...
Pik Yurnos, second ascent. With help from the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund, Melis Coady and I spent several weeks during August and September climbing in Kyrgyzstan. After climbing several snow, rock, and ice routes in Ala Archa National Park, o...
Reminiscences of Seven Summers in CanadaConrad KainMY FIRST two climbing seasons, 1909 and 1910, in the Rockies, were spent along the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway. In 1911 I joined Mr. A. O. Wheeler’s survey, covering the territory fr...
Looking for Mo. Daniel Duane. Farrar, Straus and Giroux: New York, 1998. 230 pages. $22.00.Looking for Mo is Duane’s first book of fiction and his second book in which climbing is the central action. His earlier book, Lighting Out, was an autobiog...
Handbook of Travel. Prepared for the Harvard Travellers’ Club.Edited by George Cheever Shattuck. Second edition, revised and enlarged. 510 pages. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1935.Unstinted praise is due to the Harvard Travellers’ Club for...
Shimshal White Horn, history. In 1984 Dick Renshaw and Stephen Venables, taking advantage of new trekking regulations allowing visits with minimal formalities to high points up to 6,000m in designated areas, explored the lower Malangutti Glacier. ...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE SELFBELAY (SLACK IN ROPE)California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Tuesday, October 13, 1992, Mark Ousley (32) began a roped solo ascent of the Shield (VI 5.9 A3). That day he climbed another party’s...
A Fine Kind of Madness: Mountain Adventures Tall and True. Laura and Guy Waterman. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 192 pages. $16.95.That first hike itself was just three miles, but I remained untutored in my father’s northern New England ethic...
Summer in the DolomitesHans KrausTHE southern foothills of the Alps do not rise immediately to high glacier peaks. In the east, they form relatively low ranges, little higher than 3000 meters—the southern limestone Alps. The Italian part of these ...
Mukut Himal and Kanjiroba Himal. The 1959 American Himalayan Expedition returned to Kathmandu on November 30, after a successful trip of two-and-a-half months into the area north and west of Dhaulagiri, in central Western Nepal. The group consiste...
Kaqur-Kangri first ascent, no-trace efforts, and survey of the region. Five members of Doshisha University Alpine Club made the first ascent of Kaqur-Kangri on September 24. Located near the headwaters the Yalung Tsangpo River, Kaqur-Kangri is the...