Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South American, Chilean–Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Mayo

Cerro Mayo. Our expedition from Bergamo was composed of Mario Curnis, Sergio Dalla Longa, Carlo Ferrari, Antonio Magnanoni, Dr. Annibale Bonicelli, Nicola Nava and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at only 200 meters at the head of Mayo Fjord ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchungtse

Kangchungtse, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. The seven climbers were Wally Berg, Bruce Hunter, Jerry Longbons, Edwin Terrell, Ken Madden, Dr. Gary Ruggera and I. We began the long approach from Hille on March 18 with our Nepalese staff of ei...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Canada, Garibaldi Park

Garibaldi Park. The highest peak in Garibaldi Park, 50 miles N. of Vancouver, was climbed in September 1950 by a group who reported rotten rock and treacherous snow. The 7500-ft. summit was reached after a 16-hour climb from a camp at 5500 ft. Ano...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section

A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. This section, composed of members in the six mountain states, now numbers more than 100. Our chief activity for the year was hosting the Club’s annual meeting, which was held on December 6 at Boulder, Colorado. Many...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ganesh III Attempt

Ganesh III Attempt. Three Britons and an American hoped to climb Ganesh III or Salasungo (7110 meters, 23,326 feet) via the northeast face and the northeast buttress. They established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4575, 5185 and 5875 meters on M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Parque Nacional Baranca del Cobre, Dong Tower, the Main Vein

Parque National Barranca del Cobre, Dong Tower, the Main Vein. A bachelor expedition for John O’Connor brought five friends to the rim of Barranca del Urique, in Parque Nacional Barranca del Cobre, Chihuahua, from January 9-25. We originally inten...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Attempt

Annapurna Attempt. A five-man Italian expedition led by Giacomo Stefani had hoped to climb a new route on Annapurna, the northwest buttress and north face. Early on they decided against the route because it was all exposed rock rather than snow-co...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Deo Tibba, Hanuman Tibba, Manali Peak

Deo Tibba, Hanuman Tibba, Manali Peak. These continue to be popular targets for small parties and trainees from the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute at Manali.Sohli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri IV

Dhaulagiri IV. The leader of this Japanese expedition was Mitsuhiko Hattori. From Base Camp at 11,150 feet on the Konaba Glacier, they continued presumably along the route attempted by the Austrians. They found the climb beyond Camp II difficult a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Central Andes, Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado. A joint Argentine-Italian-Czechoslovakian expedition was led by Italian Francesco Santon. Argentine Manuel Montoya and Czechs Petr Šverma and I climbed the Ojos del Salado from the south in five days from Casadero Grande, arriving...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Jammu and Kashmir, P 6000 and Z3, Durung Drung Glacier

P 6000 and Z3, Durung Drung Glacier. A Japanese expedition of ten men and one woman ascended the Durung Drung Glacier to make what they state was the first ascent of P 6000 (19,685 feet) at the head of the glacier. Katsuo Sakai and three others se...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Rafael, Quilombo

Aguja Rafael, Quilombo. When Zack Smith and I arrived at the Chalten Massif in Argentine Patagonia, the weather had been bad for over two months, with no sign of improvement. We established our high camp within a week, and amazingly the weather be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Upernivik Island, West Greenland

Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Our expedition was composed of Enrique Benavente, Juan Cerda, Emilio Civis, Berta Escola, Heinz Porkorski, Jorge Pons, Sara Pinazo, Elisabeth Verges and me as leader. We climbed a total of twelve virgin peaks. Aft...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Northern Andes, Agua Negra Region, New Peaks

Agua Negra Region, New Peaks. Using as a base a small populated place called Guardia Vieja, situated at 3000 meters on the new international road to Chile, we climbed for 20 days among the peaks near Agua Negra Pass. We were Miguel Beorchia, Lucia...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Fall on Ice, Faulty Use of Crampons, "Pitons" Pulled Out, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, “PITONS” PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn July 31, 1989, Paul Hammond (21), Erik Larson (17), and Carl Steger (21) were traversing fro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Autumn Ascents and Attempts

Ama Dablam, Autumn Ascents and Attempts. Ama Dablam (6812 meters, 22,349 feet) continues to be very popular. All climbs and attempts in this post-monsoon season were made on the southwest ridge with the exception of one unsuccessful attempt. A two...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Batura I and Haramosh Attempts

Batura I and Haramosh Attempts. There were two unsuccessful Polish expeditions, one to Batura I led by Jerzy Tillak and the other Haramosh led by Jacek Bruzdowiez. Details are not known.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, North Face of Liberty Bell, Cascades

North Face of Liberty Bell, Cascades. Towards the end of August, 1956, Hans Kraus and John Rupley packed up Early Winters Creek in the eastern Cascades, above Lake Chelan, to attempt a route on the north face of Liberty Bell. A brief reconnaissanc...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado—Rocky Mts., Wold Creek Pass

Colorado—Rocky Mts., Wolf Creek Pass: On 12 August 1953, Douglas Beard (15) and two companions, all members of a scout troop summer camp, set out to climb a steep slope above Wolf Creek Pass. About 100 feet up, Beard lost his footing and plunged t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Bottleneck Peak, San Rafael Swell, 1993

Bottleneck Peak, San Rafael Swell, 1993. In March 1993, John Allen and I climbed the north face of the west sub-summit shoulder of Bottleneck Peak (II, 5.10+) in Buckthorn Wash.James Funsten, Unaffiliated