The Middle Palisade—First Ascent From the NorthOne of the noblest peaks of the Sierra Nevada is the Middle Palisade. From the south it presents a couloir-furrowed rampart surmounted by numerous serrate pinnacles; from the north it is even more imp...
Colorado, Arapaho Glacier—On July 18, Mrs. Karen Cowperthwaite (19), and her husband David (22) and Richard Raymond (21) attempted to climb the slopes of South Arapaho Peak.It is not known whether they had reached the saddle or not, but a summer s...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, FlatironsSix members from the Colorado Rescue Dogs and Alpine Rescue Team (MRA), who were on a social climb, met the involved party at the start of the Eyebolt route (5.0- 5.4) of the Third Flatiron in subur...
High Peaks of the Parón — Perutah ExpeditionLEIGH N. ORTENBURGERTHE size. The enormous size. This was my impression of the Cordillera Blanca after seeing these magnificent peaks after an absence of seven years. The sheer magnitude of the mountains...
Access and potential climbing in the range between Lhari and Lake Basong. In November 2006 I trekked from Niwu to Punkar over the Laqin La, passing the highest and steepest peaks of the central range. The following information on access and climbi...
Cannon Mountain, VMC Direct. The Old Man of the Mountain’s rock profile is a familiar sight to many Americans but less known and far more important to climbers is Cannon Mountain’s east wall, which extends south from the face along Franconia Notch...
CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinleyJohn Waterman (28) disappeared while on a solo climb of Mt. McKinley in April 1981. For several years, Waterman had been planning a solo ascent of the mountain in winter and had made several unsuccessful attempt...
The Southwest Ridge of FairweatherPeter MetcalfAS the rather flat summit of 15,300-foot Mount Fairweather finally materialized through the fog and mist, a sudden burst of energy shot through my weary body, even though the four of us had been wallo...
Huandoy Este, East Ridge. Italians Massimo Marchini and Paola Gigliotti climbed the south ridge of Huandoy Este on June 3.
Russian-American K2 ExpeditionEd Viesturs, UnaffiliatedOur EXPEDITION TO THE ABRUZZI Ridge of K2 consisted of sixteen climbers, a doctor and a Base-Camp manager. The climbers were two Russians, a Ukrainian, 12 Americans and an Englishman. The expe...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—NO STOPPER KNOT, HASTE, INATTENTIONAlberta, Cougar Canyon, Slowpoke“On Saturday, July 13, we gave a lesson on what happens when you vary from your normal safety routine and don’t check all your gear. We were put...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. After organizational and political difficulties, we started from Poland on July 31. The team consisted of Dr. Jan Koisar, Zygmund Krzechki, Wojciech Dzik, Jerzy Kukuczka, Jósef Kubik, Jan Loson, Janusz Majer, Mari...
“Deprivation” on Mount HunterMarc Francis TwightOur new psycho-mixed climb,“Deprivation,” rises nearly 2000 vertical meters (6562 vertical feet) up the north buttress of Mount Hunter west of Mugs Stump's and Paul Aubrey’s 1981 Moonflower Buttress ...
Bugaboos. Rising from a western spur of Flattop Peak, and visible from few points in the Bugaboos, are two sharp spires (ca. 9200) which had remained unclimbed until 1961. On August 3 Edith Aston, Pierre Garneau, Peter Geiser, Sue Redpath and I re...
Mount Fairweather, Attempt. The Chukyo (another name for Nagoya) Alpine Club sent Susumu Kosaka, leader, Yoshikazu Sakai, Kunio Kanno, Shuji Fukamizu and Kenji Nishi to Alaska. They were flown to Lituya Bay from Juneau on June 6. Two of the party ...
A Day at the Races—SnowbirdMichael Kennedy“YOU AMERICANS are selling out too easily,” an English friend told me on the eve of the finals at the International Sport Climbing Championship, held last June at Snowbird, Utah. He elaborated in earnest o...
Royal Tower, Spam and Legs. Memories of fear and exhilaration lingered as I waited out the storm. What a climb our new route was! For 26 hours of continuous climbing, the ice, rock, and snow of the Royal Tower demanded our concentrated energy. My ...
New Routes on the Aiguille du Plan and the Cardinal, Rassemblement International d’Alpinistes, Chamonix. Memories of Chamonix: vin rouge, bad weather, talking politics, great meals … But what of climbing? We had come, forty of us from twenty count...
Shrikanta. Our group consisted of Peter J. Fuhrmann, technical leader, Thomas Anderson, Claire S. Israelson, Scipio Merler, my wife Sharon Virk and me, organizational leader, all Canadians, and the Indians Rattan Singh and liaison officer Gurdeep ...
Great Gorge of Ruth Glacier is deeper than the Grand CanyonBradford WashburnWHAT MAY BE THE deepest gorge in North America was measured successfully for the first time in the summer of 1992 by scientists from the Geophysical Institute of the Unive...