Makalu, South Face Attempt. A strong Austrian team failed to climb the 10,000-foot south face of Makalu, previously attempted by Yugoslavs. The leader was Wolfgang Nairz; other members were Horst Bergmann, Yves Buchheim, Walter Almberger, Helmut H...
Hypothermia and Cold Injury. Evan L. Lloyd. Apen Systems, Rockville, Maryland. 1986. 397 pages. 19 figures and tables.Although this is an excellent review of virtually all that is known today about hypothermia, the title is misleading: only seven ...
FALL ON ROCK, BELAYER TAKES HAND OFF ROPEKentucky, Red River GorgeOn Friday, March 4, I (name and age not on post) was climbing at The Motherlode on a route called Kick Me in the Jimmie (5.12) when I fell late in the day. The last fall of the last...
Nanga Parbat Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Ryoo Gil-Man attempted the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. On June 23, Kim Kwang-Ho slipped and fell to his death. The other members of the expedition were Chae Su-San, Jung Eun-Sang, Ha Jeong-Lea and ...
Rangrik Rang, west ridge. In October three French aspirant guides,Sylvain Audibert, Odilon Ferran, and Jeremy Rumebe, made the second ascent of Rangrik Rang (6,553m) by a new route up the west ridge. On the only previous attempt, in June 1994, Chr...
California, San Francisco Bay Area—On February 18, 1956 Keith Anderson (25), accompanied by two other climbers, attempted to climb one of the outcrops near the summit of Mt. Tamalpais. With a lower belay he led up a wide chimney to an overhang. At...
Mount McKinley. Aside from the ascent made by the Germans, which is reported on elsewhere in this Journal, Mount McKinley was ascended on July 12 via the West Buttress route by Seymour Ossofsky, Barbara Lilley, Michael E. Hiehle, Edward Lane, Arke...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Arizona, Bell Rock, North FaceAccording to witnesses, the young man (23) was in a hurry to get to the top of this rock and was seen almost “running” up the side toward the ...
Peaks and Passes of the Garhwal Himalaya. Jan Babicz. Alpinistyczny Klub Eksploracyjny, ul Armii Krajowej 12, Sopot, Poland, 1991. 246 pages, ridgeline maps, numerous drawings of peaks with routes marked, topos. Available postpaid from Jan Babicz,...
Whistler Mountain, Southeast Rib. On September 1 Barry Nelson and I climbed a rib of good-to-rotten rock on Whistler. A nice layback and face-climbing pitch led to several pitches of scrambling up unstable rock. NCCSI, F7.Alan Kearney
AVALANCHE AND BURIED IN CREVASSE—British Columbia, Yoho Park, President” Glacier. Bruce Colpitts (17) was trail breaking with Kris Kubbinsky and Len Potter on “President” Glacier at 10:15 a.m. on October 9. They had crossed the bergschrund on mode...
Chaukhamba II Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Jai Young Jeon attempted the northeast ridge of Chaukhamba II, situated at the head of the Gangotri Glacier. All members reached C3 but continuous bad weather from September 18-20 exhausted them at...
West Face of Lone Peak. the “Book”. In September, while Fred Beckey and Dan Davis were climbing the Question Mark Wall of Lone Peak, a second new route was being put up the west face by Ted Wilson, Rich and Dick Ream and Court Richards. We climbed...
The Needles, Southern Sierra Nevada. This very accessible, technical rock-climbing area in the Sequoia National Forest north of Kerndale remained essentially unknown until “discovered” several years ago by Dan McHale of Los Angeles. McHale, Fred B...
Idaho Alpine Club. The year began with the best ice climbing in the Tetons and Snake River Gorge since 1986, inspiring several beginners to take the club’s ice-climbing class. In February we held our first avalanche school, which we hope to make a...
Púlpito Negro and Other Peaks, Cordillera Oriental. J. Chávez, H. Frank and S. Gaviria of the Club Campo Abierto, Bogotá, on October 31 1977 made the second ascent of Púlpito Negro (4930 meters, 16,175 feet), a prominent rock tower capped with ice...
Mt. Newton, Ski Descent, and Mt. St. Elias, Attempt. The Abruzzi Ridge of 18,008-foot Mt. St. Elias, the second-highest peak in the United States, was first ascended in 1897, but by 1997 it has become nearly impossible to approach safely. The Newt...
Tamserku. Sir Edmund Hillary returned to Solu Khumbu this year with a group of New Zealanders to continue his school and bridge-building program. This year an air strip was also constructed. In the post-monsoon period the climbers attacked Tamserk...
Baruntse, West Pillar. A team of eleven Russians led by Sergei Efimov crossed an icefall southwest of the summit and climbed the previously unattempted 850-meter West Pillar to the summit (7129 meters), encountering 65° to 75° mixed rock and ice. ...
Paine Chico Este Correction and Torre Paine Norte. In the A.A.J., 1977 on page 234 it stated that Paine Chico Este had been climbed for the third time. This was actually the fourth ascent since members of our club had made a previous ascent. In De...