Glacier Dome, North Face. An expedition from Macugnaga was successful in climbing Glacier Dome for the first time by its north face. On October 10 Claudio Schranz, Marco Roncaglioni, Gianni Tagliaferri and Sherpa Gombu reached the summit (7193 met...
Southern Continental Icecap Crossing and Cape Horn. A French expedition, led by Jean-François Coste, set out in the last days of 1982 by yacht from the Argentine port, Mar del Plata, to reach, after a rough passage, the Fiordo Falcón via the Strai...
Cordillera Blanca. Giuseppe Dionosi (leader), Giuseppe Marchese, Luciano Ghigo, and Piero Fornelli, of the Italian Academic Alpine Club of Torino, made the following ascents in the Cordillera Blanca: Torino (18,088 feet) on July 3, Raimondi (17,86...
Peak Pobeda, Ascent, and American Snow Leopard. By reaching the summit of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) on August 22, during a two-man, alpine-style ascent, Andy Evans joined only a handful of non-Soviet mountaineers in the “Order of the Snow Leopard.” Thi...
Marmolejo, North Face. In 1982 we climbed a route on the north face of Marmolejo directly to the summit. Our new route in 1985 went much more to the right of the summit. On January 4 four of us left our Base Camp at 3500 meters, climbed penitentes...
LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn August 28, 1982, around noon, Brian Goldstein (27), Gordon Watters, James McCall and Robert Taylor left Paradise for Camp Muir, arriving a...
Northern Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents. Frank Van Herreweghe (Andorra) and Marc Gavalda put up two rock routes on minor peaks way to the left of the Obelisco and Halcon peaks: Kawsachun Coca (6b A1, 160m) on June 10, and Uk amaki (6b, 215m) on June...
FALLING ICE, POOR POSITIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn January 15, 1984, around 1345, Elizabeth Wheeler (24) was standing at the base of an ice fall watching two friends climb when a piece of ice weighing about 12 kilograms and falling...
IMPROPER RAPPEL ANCHOR PLACEMENT, INEXPERIENCE California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn January 12,1986, about 1330, the victim (18) and two friends set up a rappel site in Jumbo Rocks Corridor. The site was a 15 meter cliff on the southwest wa...
Brammah II, Kishtwar. Brammah II (6425 meters, 21,080 feet) was climbed by Indians led by Bibhas Das in June.
Kurikashajana. On July 14, Briton Mick Davie soloed the southeast face of Kurikashajana (5510 meters, 18,078 feet) from the Quebrada Santa Cruz. He followed the obvious left-to-right traverse of the southeast face.David Sharman, Scotland
Nomenclature in the Terong Valley. The following names have been proposed to the Survey of India. Sondhi = a sudden beautiful appearance. Sundbrar = a beautiful place. There is a place by the name of Sundbrar in Baltistan. Kashmiri Brahmins and Hi...
Piz Popena. One of our members, Christine Reid, with two guides, Guiseppe Dimai and Angelo Verzi, made a new ascent of the S. face of the Piz Popena. The climb which took 4.5 hours as rated as “fourth to fifth grade” in the Dolomite “scale of diff...
South Face of Brazos Peak, New Mexico. An excellent climbing area exists on the south face of Brazos Peak in northern New Mexico. The face varies in height from 500 to 3,000 feet, the angle from 60 degrees to vertical. The cliffs, which are readil...
Voodoo Dome, Southeast Face, The Skull. As one looks at the southeast face of this broad monolith the most apparent feature is a gigantic arch which begins at tree level and rises 400 feet to its zenith. Gregory Cloutier and I chose to make a clea...
El Capitan, “Flight of the Albatross. ” In the spring, Will Oxx and I climbed “The Flight of the Albatross” (VI, 5.10, A3+), between Magic Mushroom and the Shield. It starts at Heart Ledge and climbs up the right of the Heart. It continues for 13 ...
Coonyard Pinnacle. Slightly left and 400 feet above the top of Monday Morning Slab on Glacier Point Apron rises a 40-foot slab, Coonyard Pinnacle. On September 7, Joe McKeown, Rich Calderwood and I ascended this pinnacle from the top of Monday Mor...
Gasherbrum I and II, Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. Our international expedition of 13, led by Peter Guggemos (Germany), successfully saw 11 summiting GII and one reaching the top of GI. The weather was persistently stormy and, aside from a week o...
Chogalisa from the Northwest, Third Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Françoise Hénault, Pascal Poizat, Christian LaVergne, Philippe Arnaud, Christine Da Ronch and me. Our approach march was from July 18 to 27. Base Camp was at 4950 meters on...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. The Chilean Evelio Echevarrí a describes this little known region as a handsome glacial chain, located about 300 miles northeast of Bogatá, easy of access by road. When he visited the range in December 1956 he was plagued b...