Nevada de Chañi, South Face, Northern Andes. Nevado de Chañi is Argentina’s northernmost high peak and a remarkable rock pyramid of 6060 meters (19,881 feet). A. Gantov, J. González and O. di Pietro (of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires) reached the ...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Many new free climbs have been made in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Most are on a slightly smaller scale than other recent free climbs, but these newer climbs are just as or more desirable since they can easily b...
BloodSport and various ascents. In the spring Zach Smith and I climbed a new route between Ament’s Chimney and Kachina Wings. The IV 5.12b route is a sustained line worthy of repeats and should continue to improve with traffic. We found a faded sl...
CLIMBING ALONE, DISAPPEARED, POSSIBLE FALL INTO CREVASSEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonOn July 31, L.B. (23) departed Berg Lake to climb Mount Robson’s Fuhrer Ridge with a planned descent of the Kain Face. He failed to...
Lofoten Islands, Vagakallen, Freya. It was reported that in July, the German couple Daniela and Robert Jasper established a 30-pitch, 800-meter route, Freya (F7c A3+), on Vagakallen (942m).The route takes the front face of the mountain’s most prom...
SLIP ON RAPPEL, INEXPERIENCE, PANICWyoming, TetonsOn July 13, 1984, David Lipscomb (18) injured his left hand when it was caught between his rappel rope and an overhanging rock lip while participating in an Exum Beginning Climbing School in Cascad...
Tokosha Mountains. The Teton-like Tokosha Mountains, named in 1906 by Belmore Browne and meaning “the place where there are no trees” in Tanaina, lie between the termini of the Ruth and Tokositna Glaciers. This granite-cored, compact uplift was a ...
OVERDUE CLIMBERS, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INEXPERIENCE Idaho, Mount BorahOn May 26,1986, Glynda Miller (age unknown) and Geoff Lyons set out to climb Mount Borah. On May 27, Idaho Mountain Search and Rescue received a call from Don Miller to say ...
Nanga Parbat. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Christian Brückler, Franz Prasicek, Walter Lösch, Ewald Lidl, Monika Göttinger and me as leader, and later of Eduard Koblmüller and Fred Pressl. We hoped to climb the southwest ridge of Nanga Parbat, t...
Pamirs. A Soviet-Chinese expedition was active in the Trans-Alai Group in the western Pamirs. Nineteen members of the expedition made, on August 14, 1955, the first ascent of a 22,227-foot neighbor of Peak Lenin, which they named Peak of Unity "as...
Colorado—Stanley Peak, near Berthoud Pass: On August 10, 1952, William Eaton fell a total of 8 feet breaking a hip and suffering a brain concussion. This mishap took place on a CMC Mountain trip, and the leader felt that there was no danger at the...
Ortochasma Valley, Exploration, and Ascents in the Karavshin. On our latest climbing trips we have always tried to visit unpublished sites. This conies with the high risk of making a deep blunder. This year our attention was hooked by an unknown v...
Nanda Ghunti. A British expedition led by Dr. Ian Teasdale climbed Nanda Ghunti (6309 meters, 20,700 feet) in September. Details are missing.
Chong Kumdan and Other Peaks. Our expedition consisted of Indians Muslim H. Contractor, Bhupesh Ashar, Vijay Kothari, Dhiren Pania, Ajay Tambe and me as leader, Britons David Wilkinson as British leader, Paul Nunn, Lindsay Griffin, John Porter, Ne...
Lotus Flower Tower, New Route, 1975. In August of 1975, the Colorado climber Bill Putnam and I visited the Logan Mountains. Our objective was the impressive unclimbed face on Parrot Beak Peak in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, previously attempted...
Whitney Portal, El Segundo Buttress, Too-Loose-To-Trek. In October Alan Roberts, Mark Menge and I put up this new route taking a line to the left of the Beckey route. It is a route of fine and unusual quality. NCCS III, F9.Jack Roberts, Buff Alpin...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On July 31, Leslie-Ann Smith (23), a Tacoma resident, was climbing down the Fryingpan Glacier after a climb on the Little Tahoma Ridge with a party of four. While at the edge of the glacier th...
Penstemon Dome. Jerry Coe and I apparently made the first climb of this prominent rock formation, the second dome east of Courtwright Dam, in the spring. The climb features a system of continuous cracks on firm granite (with a few wild flowers) an...
Goldfinger. This spectacularly thin 125-foot granite needle on the “Cleaver” of the Sawtooth Ridge area was first climbed by Joe Brown and me on October 27. On a clear day illuminated by fresh snow, we climbed thin cracks on the vertical west face...
Mount Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu Ascents. Kazakhastan climber Anatoli Boukreev made three ascents of 8000-meter peaks in 1995. His story appears earlier in this journal.