FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn July 22 at 1445, Teton Dispatch forwarded a cellphone caller to me. John Coombs who told me that Eva Bell (22) a member of his party, had fallen and tumbled approximately 80 to 100 fe...
Split Thumb, Juneau Ice Field. Looking northeast from camp 16-A on the Lemon Glacier, one sees the intriguing rock sentinel of the Split Thumb (5523 feet), rising near the western periphery of the Juneau Ice Field. The first ascent of this peak wa...
Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Patagonian Werewolfs. Back in Chalten, after all my compatriots from Poincenot had left, I befriended a Brazilian, Marcos Costa. Just before we were due to depart (I had a ticket to Calafate for March 10) ther...
Ama Dablam. On April 4, Irishman Brendan Murphy and British Kate Phillips completed the 73rd ascent of Ama Dablam by the well-trodden southwest ridge. On April 12, two other British climbers, leader Ray Delaney and Joe Simpson also reached the top...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONE, POOR POSITIONNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington Ravine, Odell GullyAt 9:20 p.m. on January 18 the USFS Snow Rangers were informed that a solo climber (39-male) from Lewiston, ME, was overdue from his climb in Hu...
More First Ascents in the Coast Range of British ColumbiaFred Beckey[This is a sequel to William L. Putnam’s “First Ascents in the Coast Range of British Columbia,” A.A.J., VII (April 1948), 25-32.—Ed.]SHORTLY after dawn on 20 July 1947, the Tello...
Mountaineers Guide to the High Sierra, edited by Hervey H. Voge and Andrew J. Smatko. New York: Sierra Club, 1972. 356 pages, $7.95.Originally, says the preface, this book was to be the third edition of A Climbers Guide to the High Sierra, edited ...
Sangemar Mar. Our expedition succeeded in making the first ascent of Sangemar Mar by the southwest ridge. The members were Takashi Matsuo, leader, Dr. Hiromi Okuyama, Takehiko Hirota, Tokio Kozuki, Masaya Oishi, Toru Sakakibara, Kenya Sato, Shinic...
Colorado, El Dorado Springs Canyon. On 3 March about 30 feet above the beginning of the second lead of “Calypso”, Steve Kliewer (16), placed a sling around a rock and began a somewhat difficult traverse. After 10 feet moving to the right and sligh...
FALL ON ROCK, FREE-SOLOINGCalifornia, Yosemite – Tuolumne Meadows, Cathedral PeakOn the afternoon of July 9th, rangers received a report that a climber had fallen approximately 400 to 500 feet while descending the Eichorn Pinnacle on Cathedral Pea...
The Changing Face of Yosemite. Yosemite National Park was the site of two major natural disasters in the year. A rockslide in June and a flood in January have kept the National Park Service on their toes. On the evening of Wednesday, June 10, a 50...
HENRY FAIRBANKS MONTAGNIER1877-1933It has been a sad duty to write for the American Alpine Club the last memoirs of three great English-speaking Alpine historians —Coolidge, Farrar, and now, Montagnier—each, in his way, outstanding as mountaineer,...
ELTON STERLING THAYER1927-1954Elton Sterling Thayer was born March 30, 1927, at Readsboro, Vermont, and was killed in a climbing accident May 16, 1954, on Mt. McKinley, McKinley Park, Alaska.After residing in Vermont during childhood and early you...
Stanford Alpine Club. The rainy weather of the 1972-1973 winter limited our climbing in Yosemite, but in the fall of 1973 we were able to resume our traditional trip to Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite Valley. Most of our beginners’ training is done ...
THOMAS GORDON GOMAN 1944-1986Tom Goman died on Mount Hood May 14 while leading a climbing group from the Oregon Episcopal School. Father Tom, as he was called by his students, was bom in 1944 in Corvallis, Oregon. He graduated from the University ...
Trango Pulpit, northeast face, Azazel. The spirit of Xaver Bongard is still alive. Grand Voyage remains the ultimate, unrepeated route on Great Trango (6,286m). The steepest flank of the Trango group is the side overlooking the Dunge glacier and o...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The PATC’s Mountaineering Section experienced an exciting year in 1988. Growth in membership and broadened activities were the major news for the group. Continuing a national trend, section membership once again gre...
K7 West, first ascent; Sulo Peak, probable new route; Naisa Brakk, southwest ridge; spire below K7 West. In August and September, Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House and Slovenian Marko Prezelj spent nearly six weeks in the Charakusa Valley. ...
Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains. Jon Krakauer. Lyons & Burford, New York, 1990. 186 pages. $17.95.The sport of mountaineering, Jon Krakauer writes in his introduction, “is wrapped in tales of audacity and disaster, that make oth...
Numbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-751959-7519761976USACAN.USACAN.Terrain1Rock13441158410Snow715108852Ice 11242River 5011Unknown 10200Ascent or DescentAscent1051123567Descent87587714Unknown 1358100Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock773...