Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. After many years of waiting, and much work, the Mountaineering Section completed its publication of its Climbers Guide to Seneca Rocks. Because of the increasing popularity of climbing and the subsequent need for mo...


Notes AAJ
Jensenland, Historical Timeline of the Search for the Northernmost Point of Land on Earth

Jensenland, historical timeline of the search for the northernmost point of land on Earth. Based on the results from the 1996 American Top Of The World Expedition (co-leaders Ken Zerbst and myself [editor’s note: this is the expedition mentioned b...


Feature Article AAJ
The Mountains, My Perspective

The Mountains, My PerspectiveRobert M. McConnell *I HAVE BEEN ASKED TO REFLECT about where we stand on protecting the mountains we love so much. The first thought that comes to mind is that we have turned an important comer in this effort. Alpinis...


In Memoriam AAJ
Dyson Duncan, 1908-1975

DYSON DUNCAN1908-1978Dyson Duncan, the first member of the American Alpine Club to join the American Mountain Troops and who declined draft exemption to stay out of the Army, died on December 20 at his home in Mount Kisko, New York. He had been a ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mystery Mountain, Northeast Ridge, Where's the Gas; Dog Tooth Alaska, Neacola Mountains

On May 26 Ben Chriswell, Sam Johnson, and I flew to the Pitchfork Glacier. The Neacolas are a largely unexplored group southwest of the Alaska Range. Ben and Sam had received a McNeill-Nott award for a trip and kindly let me tag along. During our ...

| Published N/A | Author Aaron Thrasher


Book Reviews AAJ
Into Thin Air

Into Thin Air. Jon Krakauer. Villard: New York, 1997. 293 pages. Black-and-white photos, woodcut illustrations. $24.95.I approached Into Thin Air warily. I think it was all the hype, all the people insisting, “you must read it,” all the talk of mi...

| Published N/A


Book Reviews AAJ
Again Switzerland

Again Switzerland, by Frank S. Smythe. 8vo., 248 pp., 33 illustrations and a map. London, 1947: Hodder and Stoughton, Ltd. Price, 20/-.Mr. Smythe has written a book describing his first trip to Switzerland, after the enforced absence of the seven ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir and Other Peaks

Tirich Mir and Other peaks. Mine was a one-man enterprise, based on the fact that I knew that in this region there were other expeditions, with which I could participate; as for geology and exploration, it was as well to be alone. I climbed peaks ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Chuquichanca and Pomachanca, Cordillera Vilcanota

Chuquichanca and Pomachanca, Cordillera Vilcanota. This is to amplify a note in AAJ 1972, p. 176. Mary Fulford, Fay Kerr, Esme Speakman and four other tramping friends from England set off from Limacpuncu on August 8, 1971, to the Kira Kira valley...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...


Book Reviews AAJ
Shawangunk Rock Climbs

Shawangunk Rock Climbs, by Richard C. Williams. New York: The American Alpine Club, 1980. 463 pages, 102 photographs, appendices. Price $14.50.The new guidebook had a tough act to follow. Almost everyone agrees that the 1972 edition of Shawangunk ...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Reported Mountaineering AccidentsNumber of Accidents ReportedTotal of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, South Face Attempt

Annapurna, South Face Attempt. [The Bulgarian expedition failed to climb Annapurna’s south face by the Polish route in the winter, as described briefly in A.A.J., 1986 on p. 293.] Their ambitious plan for climbing both Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow—Faulty Use of Crampons, Oregon, Mount Jefferson

FALL ON SNOW–FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Oregon, Mount JeffersonOn Sunday morning, April 25, Brent McGregor (51) and Tom Herron (40) began a climb of Mount Jefferson. McGregor and his climbing partner had started their climb at 3:00 a.m. Sunday but did...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lion, Central, Kulu

Lion, Central, Kulu. Lion (20,100 feet) was climbed by its west face on June 27 by an expedition of Calcutta’s Institute of Exploration led by Sanatan Bhattacharya. The summiters were Nitai Roy, Kesab Mukherjee, Asit Roy, Asit Moitra, and Sherpas ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Philip C. Bettler, 1917-1976

PHILIP C. BETTLER 1917-1979Philip Bettler, a longtime member of the American Alpine Club, died of cancer on June 29, 1979. Phil joined the Club in February of 1949 and maintained an enthusiastic interest in the Sierra Nevada Section for the next 3...


Book Reviews AAJ
50 Years of Alpinism

50 Years of Alpinism. Riccardo Cassin. Diadem Books Ltd., London and The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1982. 207 pages, black and white photographs, diagrams, maps. $17.50.Riccardo Cassin has written a masterpiece of an autobiography—possibly the most im...


Feature Article AAJ
An American Tyrol, Climbs in the Bighorns 1933

An American TyrolClimbs in the Big Horns, 1933W. B. WillcoxMOUNTAINEERS seem to have overlooked the Big Horns. The; region has long been a roaming ground for geologists, and for the dude-ranchers of northern Wyoming; but hitherto it has rarely bee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Patagonia, Bahia Murta Region

Bahia Murta Region. Between December 30, 2001, and January 12, 2002, David Wood and I climbed several unclimbed summits in the Tres Arroyos region near the small Chilean town of Bahia Murta. This area offers extensive climbing on heavily glaciated...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Jabal Asala, Lulu Asia, Oman, Western Hajar

During our two-week stay in Oman, Marc Kuhn and I climbed one possible new route on the north side of Jabal Asala. Initially we wanted to repeat Petit Journée (D+ F5/5+, Frédéric and Magali Salle), but we had no proper route description and only a...

| Published 2010 | Author Pascal Trividic