Grand Teton, North Face, Direct Variation. In recent years it has been recognized by several climbers that the standard north face route on the Grand Teton is geometrically “direct” only in the upper portion, from the Third Ledge to the summit. Th...

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 81...

Choquesafra, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Jiramane, Ayachincana, Allinccapac, and other peaks, Cordillera Carabaya and Vilcanota. In order to reach Cordillera Vilcabamba from the south I crossed the Apurimac (3300 feet) at Pasaje Hacienda, entered the d...

Desecration of the Diamir Base CampSigi Hupfauer, Charles S. Houston and Christian BoningtonNINETY-FIVEYEARS AGO, A.F. Mummery, arguably the founder of modem mountaineering, crossed the Mazeno Pass from the Rudiamir Pal valley and was probably the...

François Matthes and the Marks of Time. Yosemite and the High Sierra. Edited by Fritiof Fryxell. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1962. 189 pages; ills. Price $7.50.François Matthes knew mountains with an understanding that few of us can ever attain. T...

Quebrada Honda, Cordillera Blanca. A party from Johannesburg, South Africa, consisting of J. H. Graafland, Frank Kleine, F. G. Petousis and me, spent four weeks in this area. Base Camp was at Pucaranracocha. On July 13 all members walked up the pe...

California, Sierra Nevada, Banner Peak. (See accident report.) The rockfall, followed by Elliotts moans, alerted Ellena and climber Bill Sundlad who was returning from Mt. Ritter. After locating Elliott, they stripped themselves of available cloth...

Note on Map of the Marcapata Valley. The little map of the Marcapata Valley is a highly preliminary form of an extension of Carta Nacional 1:200,000, sheet 14 j (Sicuani) of 1939/40, intended for illustration of the preceding account and of an ear...

FALLING ROCK- DISLODGED BY DAY-PACK, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Cathedral RocksOn August 12, Sarah Sand (59) and eight friends started up the Gunsight, the class 4-5 gully between Middle and Lower Cathedral Rocks. David (58), the le...

The Grand TetonKenneth A. HendersonTHE Grand Teton, the landmark of the fur traders in the last century and the inspiration of travelers to the Yellowstone, stood solitary and aloof for many years. The first ascent was made by a comparatively easy...

East McMillan Spire, North Buttress, Southern Pickets. From Terror Basin, Rachel Cox and I walked north along the Terror Basin-Azure Lake divide. Where this ridge steepens and merges with the east ridge of McMillan Spire, a horizontal ledge leads ...

Warbonnet Peak, The Neu Low. Climbing in the Alps is Alpinism; climbing in the Andes is Andinism, climbing in the Rockies is, therefore, Rockonism. Roconismo (the Spanish version is catchier, sexier, and more memorable) is an emerging movement by ...

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The DMC had several very active, enjoyable years in 1977 and 1976, with members climbing well and frequently in New England and elsewhere in the world. In New England, Dartmouth climbers made several first ascents, a...

EQUIPMENT TESTINGDue to poor conditions of weather the Oregon chapter was not able to complete its series of tests last year. It is anticipated that there will be a report in next year’s report.Mr. John Armitage, an AAC member presently studying i...

Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to summit gendarme, and various activity. Located west of the Great Gorge and unnamed on most maps, the Backside Glacier affords access to several large peaks by their comparatively tame western ramparts. The lower-angled...

AVALANCHE, FALL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Quebec, Charlevoix Mountains, Montagne BlancheAt 1515 on March 3, 1985, a party of experienced skiers was approaching base camp at the end of a tour around Montagne Blanche. They were on a ski-mountaineering t...

Kirti Stambh Ascent and Kharchakund Attempt, Gangotri Region. Our expedition consisted of Rick Allen, Ernie McGlashan, Malcolm McCullough, Beverley Hurwood and me as leader. We hoped to make the second ascent of Kharchakund (6612 meters, 21,693 fe...

ANTHONY FIALA1869–1950While the genesis of the American Alpine Club was taking place in 1902, Anthony Fiala was busy putting the final touches on preparations for the Ziegler Polar Expedition, which had as its objective the attainment of the North...

Bugaboo-Pigeon-South Howser-Snowpatch enchainment. I realized I was super-anxious to climb in the Bugaboos when I arrived at the Applebee Campground five days before my partner was scheduled to arrive. I figured I would keep myself busy hiking aro...

BOYD N. EVERETT, JR.1933 - 1969Boyd Everett lived for the mountains. He was happiest, most alive, and easiest when he was in them. During his thirty-five years he climbed the four highest peaks in North America and a wide range of other mountains,...