Mount Everest, Reconnaissance from the North. In preparation for the joint Japanese-Chinese expedition to the northern side of Mount Everest, the Japanese sent a nine-man team under the leadership of Dr. Junsei Saito. Base Camp was set up on the R...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Casaval RidgeOn April 28, an experienced young man (17) was climbing alone to train for a Denali climb this season. He fell while down-climbing in loose rocks on Casaval Ridge about 11,000 ...
Additional Articles from the 1981 American Medical Research Expedition to Everest.Blume, F.D., S.J. Boyer, L.E. Braverman, A. Cohen, J. Dirkse and J.P. Mordes. Impaired osmoregulation at high altitude. J.A.M.A. 252: 524-526, 1984.Boyer, S.J. and F...
Tilitso Tragedy. A 16-member German expedition led by Hans Huhn had hoped to climb Tilitso. During the approach to Base Camp, a huge snow avalanche on the west side of the Mesokanta La caught ten climbers. Rudolf Spring-mann and Hermann Ebert were...
Kamet. An expedition from the Assam Mountaineering Association led by Atanu Prosad Barua abandoned its attempt on Kämet (25,447 feet) when beaten back by a sudden and severe blizzard only 400 feet from the summit. They had set up Camp IV at 22,500...
Lapche Kang, Attempt, Previously Unreported. The Kyoto Alpine League team, led by Kazunari Aihara and comprised of six members, made an attempt on the northeast ridge of Lapche Kang (7100m) in September-October, 1998, but abandoned the attempt 160...
Chau Chau Kang Nilda. Our expedition to Chau Chau Kang Nilda (also known as Guan Nelda) had me as leader and Mrs. Bani Bose as deputy. From Kaza we proceeded to Lanza and pitched Base Camp on August 31 at 17,410 feet. We climbed scree to Camp I at...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. In 1982 the DMC continued to offer comprehensive rock-climbing classes to Dartmouth College students as well as other interested parties. In addition a new winter mountaineering/ice-climbing school was organized and ...
Baruntse Ascent and Attempt. There were two expeditions on the southeast ridge of Baruntse in the autumn. Six French climbers and two Swiss led by Fran§oise Aubert were successful. Frenchman Bernard Hollande and Swiss Patrice Kohli got to the summ...
Batura Attempt. A three-man German expedition led by Volker Stallbohm failed to climb Batura. Details are not yet known.
Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. The famous Polish woman climber, Wanda Rutkiewicz, was last seen shortly after eight P.M. on May 12. On May 10, she and Mexican Carlos Carsolio, leader of a team of four Mexicans and two Poles, were climbing betwe...
Dhaulagiri. The Argentines made a second attempt on Dhaulagiri, (26,795 feet.) Under the leadership of Lt. Col. Emiliano Huerta were Mario Bertone, Sergeant Felipe Godoy (who was on the first expedition), Sergeant Humberto Vassalla, Vicente Cichit...
Nanga Parbat, RupalFace, Schell Route Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Koji Matsui, Osamu Nakajima, Masatoshi Todaka, Kanichi Otani, Ichiro Hosoda, Yosuke Kuria, Hideto Fujii, Yasuki Narita and me as leader. On July 21, we left Ta...
FALL ON ROCK AND INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Ontario, Bon Echo Park. Richard Lamb (16), who had climbed for 3 years, was making a first ascent solo at 1230 hours on August 27, 1976. He was using a Gibbs ascender as a self-belayer, which was attached to h...
Antarctic Rescue. In the Antarctic winter night of July 1947, “Pete” Peterson and I found ourselves 20 miles from base without adequate shelter or sufficient food. The circumstances leading up to this predicament would make a long story in themsel...
Nanga Parbat. Probably the most talked about mountaineering expedition this past summer was the German attempt on Nanga Parbat, which ended so disastrously. The news last June, informing us that practically the entire party had been wiped out by a...
Every Man for Himself?David BreashearsOVER THE PAST SEVERAL YEARS we have witnessed an unprecedented number of climbers and expeditions active on the highest peaks of the world. Through no fault of their own or because of errors of judgement, thes...
Huandoy Norte, Southeast Face, Attempt. Matej Meglic and Primoz Soklic climbed a new route on the southeast face of Huandoy Norte (6395 m), Meso (900 meters, 85°) They reached the ridge 70 meters below summit and descended without topping out.Miha...
Tenzing: Hero of Everest. Ed Douglas. Washington D.C.: National Geographic Press, 2003. 304 pages. Hardcover, $25.00; Paperback, $15.00.I still buy plenty of climbing books, but I can rarely bring myself to read them. I review the picture captions...
1981-Polish-American Climbing Exchange Program. In late March Tom Hargis and I were told that we had been chosen as the AAC representatives in the climbers’ exchange with Poland in the late summer. After four months of uncertainty, watching the he...