Tokosha Mountains. The Teton-like Tokosha Mountains, named in 1906 by Belmore Browne and meaning “the place where there are no trees” in Tanaina, lie between the termini of the Ruth and Tokositna Glaciers. This granite-cored, compact uplift was a ...
OVERDUE CLIMBERS, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INEXPERIENCE Idaho, Mount BorahOn May 26,1986, Glynda Miller (age unknown) and Geoff Lyons set out to climb Mount Borah. On May 27, Idaho Mountain Search and Rescue received a call from Don Miller to say ...
Nanga Parbat. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Christian Brückler, Franz Prasicek, Walter Lösch, Ewald Lidl, Monika Göttinger and me as leader, and later of Eduard Koblmüller and Fred Pressl. We hoped to climb the southwest ridge of Nanga Parbat, t...
Pamirs. A Soviet-Chinese expedition was active in the Trans-Alai Group in the western Pamirs. Nineteen members of the expedition made, on August 14, 1955, the first ascent of a 22,227-foot neighbor of Peak Lenin, which they named Peak of Unity "as...
Colorado—Stanley Peak, near Berthoud Pass: On August 10, 1952, William Eaton fell a total of 8 feet breaking a hip and suffering a brain concussion. This mishap took place on a CMC Mountain trip, and the leader felt that there was no danger at the...
Ortochasma Valley, Exploration, and Ascents in the Karavshin. On our latest climbing trips we have always tried to visit unpublished sites. This conies with the high risk of making a deep blunder. This year our attention was hooked by an unknown v...
Nanda Ghunti. A British expedition led by Dr. Ian Teasdale climbed Nanda Ghunti (6309 meters, 20,700 feet) in September. Details are missing.
Chong Kumdan and Other Peaks. Our expedition consisted of Indians Muslim H. Contractor, Bhupesh Ashar, Vijay Kothari, Dhiren Pania, Ajay Tambe and me as leader, Britons David Wilkinson as British leader, Paul Nunn, Lindsay Griffin, John Porter, Ne...
Lotus Flower Tower, New Route, 1975. In August of 1975, the Colorado climber Bill Putnam and I visited the Logan Mountains. Our objective was the impressive unclimbed face on Parrot Beak Peak in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, previously attempted...
Whitney Portal, El Segundo Buttress, Too-Loose-To-Trek. In October Alan Roberts, Mark Menge and I put up this new route taking a line to the left of the Beckey route. It is a route of fine and unusual quality. NCCS III, F9.Jack Roberts, Buff Alpin...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On July 31, Leslie-Ann Smith (23), a Tacoma resident, was climbing down the Fryingpan Glacier after a climb on the Little Tahoma Ridge with a party of four. While at the edge of the glacier th...
Penstemon Dome. Jerry Coe and I apparently made the first climb of this prominent rock formation, the second dome east of Courtwright Dam, in the spring. The climb features a system of continuous cracks on firm granite (with a few wild flowers) an...
Goldfinger. This spectacularly thin 125-foot granite needle on the “Cleaver” of the Sawtooth Ridge area was first climbed by Joe Brown and me on October 27. On a clear day illuminated by fresh snow, we climbed thin cracks on the vertical west face...
Mount Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu Ascents. Kazakhastan climber Anatoli Boukreev made three ascents of 8000-meter peaks in 1995. His story appears earlier in this journal.
East Face of Goat Flat’s Plateau. David Ravert, Ed Poznanski, and I ascended the snowfield which empties into Golden Lake (upstream from Phillips Lake). Although this snow chute is 1500 feet in vertical height, the climb covered 2000 surface feet ...
Cordillera Occidental, High Altitude Archaeology and Various Ascents. High altitude archae- ology was again the focus of several expeditions on the volcanoes near Arequipa during the last three months of 1997. Team leaders Jose Antonio Chavez (Uni...
Stanford Alpine Club. During the year the Stanford Alpine Club continued its program of informal instruction for beginning and intermediate climbers. Practice climbs were held almost every Sunday of the academic year, while instruction and supervi...
Juriques and Other Peaks, Ancient and Modem Ascents. American anthropologist J. Rinehard, accompanied by J. Sarracino and Ana María Barón, Chilean researchers, made several ascents near Licancabur. On August 31 Rinehard climbed Licancabur itself a...
Cordillera Yauyos and Siulá Grande, Cordillera Huayhuash. The Expeditión Barcelona was composed of the climbers Francisco Guillamón, Venancio López, Miguel Muñoz, Jorge Pons, the scientists Alberto Folch, Augusto Panyella, Eudaldo Serra, and mysel...
Kayo Zom, Pechus Zom, Gainthir Zorn, Das Bar Zorn and Other Peaks. On June 17 Elfriede Baltuska, Viktoria Hribar, Gerulf Wilhelm, Günther Wöhrl, and I of the Vienna Academic Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) left Vienna to drive overland t...