Spitzkoppe, summary. This stunning granite outcrop in central Namibia has some of Southern Africa’s finest climbing, with bouldering to 14-pitch trad and sport routes, and delicate face climbing to crazy cracks and chimneys. Spitzkoppe is located ...
Ancohuma, 1971. Karl-Otto Ambronn, Gernot Gröbl, Werner Kirsch, Klaus Moelter and I were in the Ancohuma-Illampu massif in July and August of 1971. Our objective was to reconnoiter Ancohuma and make the second ascent of the southwest face of Illam...
Chombu Attempt. A six-man Japanese team from Toyo University, led by Kenshiro Ohtani, was the first foreign expedition allowed to enter this part of Sikkim since World War II. They unsuccessfully attempted Chombu (6362 meters, 20,872 feet) via the...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Washington, Mount ThompsonOn September 24, 1989, Roberta Mohrholz (32) and Jalen Johansen (32) set out on what was to be a training hike and easy scramble up Mount Thompson. Roberta had l...
Cordillera de Vilcanota. A British expedition consisting of John Jewell, Pat O’Donaghue, Ralph Whitling, and Colin Darbyshire left Sicuari May 19, 1956 to establish Base Camp three and a half days later, at 16,000 feet, just south of the Chimboya ...
El Toro, Central Pillar, “El Sendero Luminoso, ” El Potrero Chico, Nuevo León. On March 30, Kurt Smith, Pete Peacock and I summited on the central pillar of El Toro, a 2000-foot limestone spire. Kevin Gallagher, Terry Christenson and I had bolted ...
AndesA German party consisting of Dr. Kinzl (leader), Hans Schweizer, Karl Schmid, Siegfried Rohrer and Walter Brecht was active in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru this last summer. Schweizer, Schmid and Rohrer completed from the W. the ascent of Ne...
FALL ON LOOSE ROCK, WEATHER, PARTY SEPARATED California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel RockOn May 31, 1993, at 1630, John McMillan reported his climbing partner, Ian Johnston (27) overdue from descending Sentinel Rock. After climbing the Chouinard/Her...
Nanga Parbat, Schell Route, Rupal Face. Our expedition was composed of Germans Peter Mezger, Volker Stallbohm, Jens Holthusen, Karl Wolfner and me as leader, French Etienne Robein, Alain Cokkinos and Isabelle Leclerc, and Czechs Dr. Volker and Ren...
FALLING ROCK—British Columbia, Southern Selkirks, Mt. Marion. Four climbers were approaching the crest of the ridge of Mt. Marion at about 7,700 feet at 1130 hours on August 3, 1976, and were traversing some moderately steep solid slabs. They were...
Corean Alpine Club expedition leader, Kang Sung-woo, returned to the north face of Cholatse in 2003 after bad weather thwarted an attempt the previous year. In 2002 the intended line had been a new route up the right side of the face but after nea...
Greenland. Paul-Émile Victor, leader of the Expédition Polaire Française, has been for many months recently in western Greenland, E. of Disko Island. With 34 companions, he has been continuing the program of research initiated in 1948 in meteorolo...
The American Alpine Club has received permission to send a small expedition to the Karakoram. A party of six climbers will leave New York early in April, follow the route of the Duke of the Abruzzi from Srinagar to the Baltoro Glacier, and camp at...
Churup, South Face. Andrej Markovic and Matej Meglic climbed the south face of Churup* (5493 m) on July 7. A few days before the ascent they fixed ropes over the first two rock pitches. They spent the night on the summit and next day descended the...
Nevada de Chañi, South Face, Northern Andes. Nevado de Chañi is Argentina’s northernmost high peak and a remarkable rock pyramid of 6060 meters (19,881 feet). A. Gantov, J. González and O. di Pietro (of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires) reached the ...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Many new free climbs have been made in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Most are on a slightly smaller scale than other recent free climbs, but these newer climbs are just as or more desirable since they can easily b...
BloodSport and various ascents. In the spring Zach Smith and I climbed a new route between Ament’s Chimney and Kachina Wings. The IV 5.12b route is a sustained line worthy of repeats and should continue to improve with traffic. We found a faded sl...
CLIMBING ALONE, DISAPPEARED, POSSIBLE FALL INTO CREVASSEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonOn July 31, L.B. (23) departed Berg Lake to climb Mount Robson’s Fuhrer Ridge with a planned descent of the Kain Face. He failed to...
Lofoten Islands, Vagakallen, Freya. It was reported that in July, the German couple Daniela and Robert Jasper established a 30-pitch, 800-meter route, Freya (F7c A3+), on Vagakallen (942m).The route takes the front face of the mountain’s most prom...
SLIP ON RAPPEL, INEXPERIENCE, PANICWyoming, TetonsOn July 13, 1984, David Lipscomb (18) injured his left hand when it was caught between his rappel rope and an overhanging rock lip while participating in an Exum Beginning Climbing School in Cascad...