Pumahuacanca and other peaks. I met Alistair McKeith, a Scottish climber, by chance in Huaraz. Hoping to make the first ascent of Pumahuacanca (“weeping puma” in Quechua), we left the road at Olleros on June 19 and followed the ancient trade route...
Jurau, West Face. A British expedition had hoped to climb the previously unascended west face of Siulá Chico but failed because of bad weather and health problems. However, Brian Barker and Jonathan Preston did complete a new route on the difficul...
1951-651966GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta14616213British Columbia18832223Yukon Territory101000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic–North722493707South323000...
Mount Everest Reconnaissance from the North, 1978. Fifteen Iranian and twenty Chinese climbers made a reconnaissance of the North Col route on Mount Everest in 1978. They brought 185 tons of materials and were supported by several hundred. Base Ca...
Passu Peak Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Mamoru Shimizu, Norihide Taniuchi, Makihiro Wakao, Kazuhisa Ikegami, Hitoshi Mitsuishi, Kanichi Ichikawa and me as leader. We placed Base Camp at 13,300 feet on May 22 after a three-day approach from...
Basaseachic Waterfall, Soy Caliente. Morgan Black, Aidan Oloman, and Sean Easton established Soy Caliente (5.11, Al, 9 pitches) ground-up over two weeks in November and December. Forty 3/8-inch bolts and 20 rivets were placed. Thirty meters were A...
Truce Group, Purcells. On July 19 John Barton, Nick Dodge, Tom Ettinger, Gary Kirk, Mark Temple and I finally met at the end of a new logging road, 11 miles up Glacier Creek. After crashing through a landslide which had covered the last third of a...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 24 March Jeff Damp (21), Tom Davis (19), and Donn Stahlman (19) were climbing the Odel Gully in Huntington Ravine. Conditions were snowy and foggy and at a near white out. They climbed on firm ice and snow. After ...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-FAILURE TO EQUALIZE ENDS OF RAPPEL ROPE, AND FAILURE TO TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Park, Solid GoldOn February 8, Jay Fitzgerald (21) and Victor Guzik (21 were simul-rappel- ling off of the seco...
Everest, Winter Attempts. A team of six French and two Belgian climbers led by Eric Dossin attempted to climb the west ridge of Everest. South Koreans led by Oh In-Whan were on the South Col route. Strong winter winds kept both parties from climbi...
El Gigante, Bernat Pudent. Last summer we flew from Catalonia to Mexico. We had seen pictures of the impressive west face of El Gigante and our goal was to open a new route. Although June seemed too late to climb this sunny wall, we decided to try...
Bhrikuti Attempt. An expedition of nine French, a Nepali, a Sherpa and a Tamang were climbing on the Japanese route of the spring of 1982, the west ridge. On April 30, Jean-Yves Ferrand, Pierre Gaillot and Bruno Kriner got to 6250 meters but Ferra...
P 20,370, Tons Valley. This peak, west of Swagarohini, was attempted by a Dutagar expedition led by Amula Sen.Sohli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club
The Mountaineers. The 36th Annual Climbing Program in 1980 was one of coalition of philosophy for the club. Several questions which had arisen in previous years were formally answered with stated policy by the Climbing Committee.A reaffirmation of...
Jannu, North Face, Attempt. We (Fyodorov, Grekov, Mariev, Chabaline, Tukhvatulin, Slepnyov and Raljabov) arrived in Kathmandu September 2 with the goal of climbing the north face of Jannu. By September 11, the first team members arrived at Base Ca...
Manirang I and II, Spiti. With 40 paratroopers, I ran a training camp plus expedition in Spiti from August to October. We left the road near the 1000- year-old Tabo Monastery. Crossing the Spiti River to the western side, we walked up the Yangcho ...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The C.M.C. experienced a healthy growth rate in 1982, adding a thirteenth Colorado Group and conducting more than 2000 trips. Present membership totals over 7300.Our outings included a bicycle trip to Holland, a backpac...
Alaska Alpine Club. The format of recent years was followed in 1971 with the continuation of weekly lunch meetings and monthly slide shows. These shows featured everything from caving through white- water expeditions in the Brooks Range to climbin...
Baruntse Attempt. German Hans Eitel unsuccessfully attempted to climb Baruntse by its southeast ridge. He apparently was solo. He reached a high point of 6500 meters on April 11.Elizabeth Hawley
P 6872 (Serei Porkush). English climbers Steve Roberts and Steve Pymmmade the first ascent of P 6872 (22,546 feet), possibly called Serei Porkush, in the Batura region, apparently at the western end of the Batura chain. The other members were Mart...