Huantsan Norte, The Wayqui Way. Rolando Morales Flores, Beto Pinto Toledo, Michel Bernuy Qiuto, and I (all International Federation of Mountain Guides aspirants from the Casa de Guias in Huaraz, Peru) entered the Rajucolta Valley on July 11 and se...
OVERDUE CLIMBERWyoming, TetonsOn July 12, 1984, at 0530, Thomas Egan (26) and a climbing partner went up into Hanging Canyon with the intention of climbing the East Ridge of Rock of Ages. Mr. Egan was under the impression that he was signed out fo...
Wilderness Search and Rescue. Tim J. Setnicka. Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, 1980. 640 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings, bibliography. $12.95.High Drama offers clear, precise and new descriptions of well- known—and some unkno...
Mount Silverthrone Traverse. On April 2 and 3 four of us flew to the Ruth Amphitheater with Cliff Hudson, where we met our fifth member, who had skied in with two companions. We were Jim Bergdahl, Garret Brown, Roger Fuiten, Sandy Mapes and I. Our...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT, LOOSE ROCK Colorado, Bear Creek CanyonOn October 26, 1986, two climbers with proper equipment, including seat harnesses, carabiners and pitons, were climbing in Bear Creek Canyon....
Nanga Parbat, Japanese Tragedies. Two Japanese expeditions unsuccessfully attempted Nanga Parbat and both lost members. An 11-man expedition to the Rupal Face led by Osamu Kunii established Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 11,800, 16,750, 19,675 ...
Recent new routes. As of a few years ago the 1970 Leste Route on Pico Maior in Rio de Janeiro was the longest (700m, 5.8R) established. Harder routes were established, like Terra de Gigantes (550m, A4+) on Pedra do Sino, also in Rio, but the big f...
Living Country Customs in Salzburg, by Prunella C. Pott-Flatz. 64 pages, with illustrations from the author’s pen drawings. Salzburg: Karl Gordon, 1950. Price, $1.00.This little book, written in English, is sponsored by the Folklore Department, Go...
Sakube lwa, Honshu. Honshu, the southwestern island of Japan, offers little climbing of an original nature unless one can locate some of the small forgotten pinnacles projecting from timber covered slopes. Sakube Iwa is such a pinnacle in Ryu Mon ...
Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. The expedition of the Cuneo section of the Club Alpino Italiano was composed of Antonio Perino, leader, Toni Caranta, Sergio Ambrosiani, Enrico Acchiardo, Piero Ballario, Bruno Dematteis, Carlo Garelli, Giuli...
Colorado—Waterwheel Falls, Idaho Springs: On July 5, 1952, Edward Parry, Jr. slipped when half way up a 100 foot cliff and fell head first onto rocks below. He died shortly thereafter as a result of his fall. No other data available from newspaper...
Schweizerland, East Greenland. Our Catalan expedition was composed of Nuria Pares, Pep Bisquert, Miquel Autet, Angel Serra, Montse Riesco and me as leader. We left Kulusuk on August 3, ascended the Karale Glacier to the September 16th Glacier and ...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Mount ShastaIn July, a party of four climbers attempted the Hotlum Glacier route on Mount Shasta. Parts of this route are covered in hard ice on which self-arrest is difficult. The climbers traveled in ...
Admiralteets, Bashkirov Route. From July 27-30, M. Mikhaylov (leader), V. Akimov, A. Molotov, A. Puchinin and A. Chernov, all from the Kazak Army Sports Club (Almaty, Kazakhstan), climbed the pillar of Admiralteets peak (5090m) via the 1985 V. Bas...
Our four-person team arrived on September 18 in the Madagascar capital of Antanariva. From there we traveled to the Andringitra National Park 800km to the south. Situated here is the famous granite massif of Tsaranoro, and we spent almost a month ...
A.A.C. Rocky Mountain Section. We met twice during 1957: once to hear Jürg Marmet, the Swiss Everest-climber, and to see his beautiful slides of the Swiss Everest-Lhotse Expedition; and once, in conjunction with the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, to...
Nanda Devi East Attempt. After a lapse of seven years, our joint Indo-Polish expedition was the first to climb on the Nanda Devi massif since the Nanda Devi Sanctuary was declared a Bio-Sphere Reserve and closed for all expeditions. We were permit...
East Face of La Pérouse, Fairweather Range. This 7000-foot high face is of mixed snow, ice and rock. Parts of it were very difficult, up to difficult class 6. The ice lies at angles from 50° to 65° and the face is swept by rock fall and avalanches...
Kun and Nun. An Italian expedition reached the summit of Kun (7087 meters, 23,252 feet) on August 16. Base Camp and Camps I, II and III were at 4000, 5500, 6100 and 6350 meters. The summit climbers were Santino Cale- gari, Battista Scanabessi, Mar...
Changi Tower (5,800m), south face, Anké Asashe. The expedition was completed by Nestor Ayerbe, Oscar Perez, and myself, all from Huesca, northern Spain. Our mountain club, Peña Guara, supported the expedition. On July 21 we arrived at the 4,200m b...