Accident Reports ANAM
Mild Hypothermia, Dehydration, Inadequate Equipment and Water, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan

MILD HYPOTHERMIA, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND WATER California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 31, 1993, at 1620, SAR site member Eric Rasmussen, who was near the base of El Capitan, heard cries for help from unidentified climbers on ...


Notes AAJ
Nanga Parbat Correction

Nanga Parbat Correction. In AAJ, 1988, page 264, it incorrectly stated that the Japanese expedition had climbed the Schell route. The route which was actually climbed by them was the German route of 1962 on the Diamir Face.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice—British Columbia, Kokanee Glacier Park

FALL ON ICE—British Columbia, Kokanee Glacier Park. Ron Homenuke (24) and two companions were traversing Kokanee Glacier from the true right to true left above a sheet of glare ice at 1030 hours on October 1, 1976. They had neither ropes, crampons...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Hungchi

Hungchi, which lies south of the Nup La on the eastern rim of the Ngojumba Glacier, which itself forms the Nepal-Tibet frontier, is sometimes referred to as Cha Khung or Gyuba Tshomotse, and Fungqi in Chinese. Some members of the 2003 Japanese exp...

| Published N/A


Notes AAJ
Asia, Himalayan Weather

Himalayan Weather. Thanks to the same informant in Poona, we have had word of two interesting surveys reported by the Statesman.In November 1948 an RIAF meteorological expedition under the leadership of Flying Officer K. Chandra, with a medical re...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Caucasus, English Expedition

English Expedition. Four English climbers, R. L. Beaumont, R. A. Hodgkin, M. S. Taylor, and J. R. Jenkins, made a number of notable ascents in the week of July 20th-27th. They negotiated the first ascent of Jailik-Bashi, 14,868 ft., by the S. face...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Cheetah

Cheetah, Little Cottonwood Canyon. In July, my brother Robert and I established an excellent route left of Tarzan in the Gate Buttress area. Beginning on Tarzan Ledge, the first two pitches climb the challenging face above with bolt protection. Th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ocshapalpa, South Face, Intsumisioa

Nevado Ocshapalca, South Face, Intsumisioa. It was reported that Spaniards Balta Fonsecca and Rafa Santesteban climbed a new route, Intsumisioa (500 meters, 70°-90°) on the south face of the mountain*. They climbed a steep couloir on the left side...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Ojos del Salado, Winter Ascent

Ojos del Salado, Winter Ascent. W. Ritter, P. Stecher and I left Tinogasta in the Argentine on June 7 and headed on foot across the desert to the Ojos del Salado. On June 20 we left our Camp VI at 18,875 feet and in eight hours climbed the south f...


Book Reviews AAJ
Volcanoes as Landscape Forms

Volcanoes as Landscape Forms, by C. A. Cotton. 8vo.; 401 pages with 223 illustrations. Wellington, N. Z.: Whitcombe & Tombs, Ltd., 1945. Price £1/12/6.Professor Cotton of Victoria College, Wellington, has made a unique contribution to physiogr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Lankin Dome, Granite Mountains

Lankin Dome, Granite Mountains. Some rather nice granite domes lie in the Wyoming desert. Eric Boelke, Andy Archer and I climbed a route on the northwest buttress of Lankin Dome in August. The first pitch, the crux, is up a friction slab (one bolt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountains, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Tague Yer Time

Tague Yer Time. South Chasm View Wall hides its secrets well. It took Jared Ogden and me many trips to work out a new line just right of Astrodog, and then another few trips to complete it. Tim Toula and Jim Olsen did the first two pitches and nam...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, P 10,500+, North of Queen Mary, Saint Elias Mountains, Icefield Ranges

P 10,500+, North of Queen Mary, Saint Elias Mountains, Icefield Ranges. After a week of poor flying weather, Bill Proudman, Deb Caughron, Bobby Bonnet, Peter Hampson and I abandoned our original goal of Mount Kennedy and flew to the large unnamed ...


Feature Article ANAM
Club "Expeditions"

CLUB “EXPEDITIONS”During recent years, a number of climbing or outing clubs have sponsored “expeditions” to mountain ranges in foreign countries. Participants in these outings are often solicited by mail or by advertisements in mountaineering maga...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure of Rappel, Inexperience — Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Cliffs

FAILURE OF RAPPEL, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise CliffsThis accident occurred when the victim (40) suffered a fall while rappelling down the cliffs at the west end of Lake Louise on May 15, 1983. He and a companion had been pra...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Anchor and Belay, British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park/Alpine Recreation Area, Snowpatch Spire

INADEQUATE ANCHOR AND BELAYBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park/Alpine Recreation Area, Snowpatch SpireOn July 18, a group of five climbers had climbed the Kraus/McCarthy Route on Snowpatch Spire. They were moving down to a rappel sta...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. Craig Linford, Dave and Dianna Dailey, Paul Stevenson and I were able to make a new route on the northeast ridge of Pumori, but it took longer than we had time for and so we did not make the summit. We did a great deal of technical water-i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest

Everest. The Norwegian Everest Expedition, numbering twelve climbers and 28 high-altitude porters, reached Base Camp on March 14. The Icefall was particularly difficult and dangerous this year, being very broken and unstable perhaps because there ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Knud Rasmussens Land, First Ascents

Knud Rasmussens Land, first ascents. Four British climbers, Geoff Bonney, Rosie Goolden, Mark Humpherys, and I, made nine first ascents from the Griffith Pugh Glacier. The team based itself on the glacier at 69° 10.741' N, 29° 9.029' W approximate...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Norway, Troll Wall, Rock Wall

Troll Wall, Rock Fall. It was reported that the 1300-meter Troll Wall on the north face of Trollryggen (1742m) experienced a series of rockfalls beginning in September. The first came from high on the face in an area known as the Gray Wall; the fa...